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05-20-2005, 03:16 AM | #1 |
Leaky Injector
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removing flat black spray can paint
ya ya ya, i ghettoly rattle canned over my already ghetto gloss black paint a while ago to be... 'cool'
I didn't sand, didn't do anything... actually i kinda wiped the car down. HOW DO I GET THIS CRAP OFF?!?!1 current list of ideas: something i can soak a rag with that will take it off without damaging the paint underneith. Clay bar for 194,391 hours straight. Wet Sand for 1,671 hours straight. Help me out here guys, i can't deal with this underpar paint anymore |
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05-20-2005, 03:28 AM | #3 |
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lol u should get burned for doing the newbie stuff......... classic sorry to tell yah buddy but aint nothing really gonna help it bring back to the way it was before.... things that will work but wont look good .. is wiping ur car down with thinner... but u know what i really think, is just save ur money and just get a single stage black paint job from maaco... dont listen to all the other things ppl have to say ... after this post like pearl and candy... just get it single stage black... maaco does paint jobs for like 300 if u wait for a coupon to come out...save ur money and get a single stage paint job.. trust me ... youll thank me for it...
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05-20-2005, 07:51 AM | #4 | |
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i, for one, think this is funny as heck. |
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05-20-2005, 08:09 AM | #5 |
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Yep, to "fix it", it's gotta be sanded off, and re-painted. Only reason I plan on semi-flatting my car is because a) I've gotten pretty good at a spray can, lol. and b) my paint is screwed anyway. bad repaint by ownder before me, chipping, clearcoat peeling off, etc. But, once you spray the car, next step is definaly gonna be sand and re-paint. I can't understand people who flat plack prefectly good paint jobs though, no matter what the color.....
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05-20-2005, 08:14 AM | #6 |
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Yea your screwed. I'd never do flat black on a cars paint that was ok...
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05-20-2005, 08:17 AM | #7 |
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yikes sounds like trouble. Daim why the hell would you do that? Why not just get like mad touch up paint or get the car detailed or something? i mean spray can paint on a car with a factory paint job? I would think that does mix and does sounds right.
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05-20-2005, 08:19 AM | #8 |
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I don't really have any input, I just want to see a pic of this paint that you messed up.
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05-20-2005, 08:32 AM | #9 | |
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yeah, your paint is long gone buddy...it dosent matter if you sanded or not before you sprayed, if it stuck, the paint has adhered and it's beyond repair
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05-20-2005, 09:05 AM | #10 |
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Im just getting done on my flat black s14. Now i have about 20 reasons why i did it. The best thing you can do is sand the flat black off and do another coat of it. Or you can do a $300 el chepo macco crappy paint job or get more money and get a good paint job. Either way your paint underneath the flat black is fuked.
In order to get an alright flat black spray can paint job is prepping it right and spraying it the best you can. My shit was really messed up. My s14 had rust underneath the alright black gloss paint job it had. I bought a new fender... now im just gonna pick up a version select body kit up next weekend and do a quick flat black spray on it. Im always hitting driveways and speed bumps so flat black works for me when i bondo the fiberglass up. I'll post pics when im done. |
05-20-2005, 09:46 AM | #11 |
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Just an idea, but if you don't mind spending a lot of time, you can sand it off and follow it up with a machine polish. The more paint you remove, the finer the grit you want to use. Start with a 400 or 600 grit, aiming for at least a 1500 grit wet sand by the time you reach your original paint. Then once you get down to your original paint, you can buy a cheapo machine polisher like: http://www.savannahtoolhouse.com/ve7vaspsapov.html and go over your original paint with the proper compounds. Rattle can paint is far from permanent. It honestly wouldn't probably take that much sanding (unless you used like 80 cans). Rattle cans lay down very little material. It's mostly a bunch of air in the can and a little bit of paint. Try comparing several coats of rattle can to a single coat of genuine autmotive paint sprayed with a proper gun and compressor.
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05-20-2005, 09:53 AM | #12 | |
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Quote:
The whole rattle can flat black thing is as annoying as altezza lights.
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05-20-2005, 09:54 AM | #13 | |
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anyone wanna create a "team rattle can"? or maybe "team flat black"
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05-20-2005, 10:33 AM | #15 |
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I don't know if this will have great results on a actual car, but I have used automotive grade paint remover on some metal scale models (1:18 scale) and it takes the paint right off right down to the metal. Just pour some on the model, wait about 15 minutes, and the paint just crinkles off. Wipe it off and you're left with clean bare metal.
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05-20-2005, 10:36 AM | #16 |
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this reminds me of local ricer who build Sr20 SiLvIa just like in Sport compact. he didnt get the wheels tho, wend with weak ass offset gram lights c. c's!!! wtf.
anyway, he was gonna rattle can his car flat black. stupidies thing u can do. why? cause you probably lack the skills or the equipment to make it look good. now since you already fucked up you might learn your lesson. and you best choice is sand the whole thing down, prime it again and pay to get sprayed. stop being homosexual. straighten out a lil....
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05-20-2005, 10:42 AM | #17 | |
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Quote:
they had a team rust thing in Europe a couple of years back. VW thing I guess?
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05-20-2005, 12:52 PM | #18 |
Leaky Injector
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i used "Goof Off" mostly on the front bumper. It wiped off the flat black with minor residue. I'm sure with more can (I used 2), it could of cleaned it up well. You can see the original bumper's paint showing through on the picture below. The rest of the car was sanded with 80 grit.
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05-20-2005, 01:19 PM | #19 |
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u can try to wetsand and use paint thiner but most likey ur paint below is gonna be trashed.. just sand off everything and tape off everything real nice and goto macco ur car will look lots better.. the better ur prep work the better it will come out
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05-20-2005, 02:22 PM | #20 |
Leaky Injector
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thanks for all the input guys... make no mistake the original paint was far from classy. scratches everywhere, i have atleast 25 dings, a door crease on the driver door, etc. i just did it to hide the scratches and dents cheaply... (dumb, poor, and college) which it did, but now im in the process of "spiffing" my car back up and getting everything tnice.
I think wetsanding should take care of it. however i was just wondering if someone on here knew about some solvent that i didn't. yes i know it was gay, i ruined teh car, blah blah blah... i think i used 4 cans on the entire car so it shouldn't be too hard to take off. |
05-20-2005, 03:12 PM | #21 |
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the amount of solvent to help the car get back to its original will not be efficient, compared to just getting a maaco paint job..... trust me ive been doing autobody for years.... i think its time to whip out a gas can for u to hold while i flick matches into it....
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05-20-2005, 03:13 PM | #22 |
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try this tho if u dont want to maaco ur car... aircraft paint remover... they sell it in a rattle can 8 bucks a piece... u can get a gallon for 20 bucks have fun... strip away... i tried to help u but seems like u wanna do the hack way of things well then go for it..
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05-20-2005, 03:21 PM | #23 |
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4 cans on the whole car should practically wipe off. Especially with little or no prep initially. I don't know why everyone thinks the paint underneath is somehow ruined? Crappy rattle can paints aren't chemically hot enough to have any effect on auto paint. It's still under there, there's just shitty rattle can on top. I almost think you could do it with JUST rubbing compound with a whole lot of elbow grease, or that $60 polisher. 4 cans of aerosol is like dust.
Paint remover would be a no-no though, for removing just the rattle can that stuff is aggressive. I used it to strip my track car that had spray paint + maaco paint + original paint. I took it all the way down to bare metal with that stuff. |
05-20-2005, 04:45 PM | #24 |
Leaky Injector
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i scrubbed the bajesus out of a little section with dawn soap and some warm water using a 3m household scrub sponge (rough side). then i applied some meguar's stage 1 cleaner wax that says it removes "bonded materials and minor blemishes & scratches."
here's the outcome, im very pleased... keeping in mind the paint is 229,4XX miles old a clay bar should take those little spots out... but if not im still happy! and here's for the pessimists infinitexsound, I will be getting the maaco paint job coming up here in the near future. Will the single stage paint jobs create enough "shine" to give it a nice reflection? if not, will a couple hours polishing add anything to it? thanks in advance. |
05-20-2005, 04:49 PM | #26 | |
Leaky Injector
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Quote:
are you removing the rattle can paint in prep of a real paint job? |
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05-20-2005, 04:57 PM | #27 |
Leaky Injector
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heres an idea that ive seen work really well....... spray brake fluid over the entire car..... it strips the top layer of paint and leaves the rest. some of the guys i used to work with did that to an old dodge van and it worked great. you haveto let it set on there for a little bit, liek an hour.
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05-20-2005, 05:11 PM | #28 |
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brake fluid is just stupid............. aircraft will eat all the way down to the sheet metal....
single stage solid colors u could color sand and polish.. i did it on my crx.. when i painted it solid red... u CANNOT color sand metallic single stage why? i dont know and dont ask.. all i know is that its a bitch to match and it doesnt look good period when u color sand a metallic single stage... do the single stage black 300 best fukn deal of a lifetime.....color sand starting with 1200 then 2000.... why because single stage is very thin, espacially now since dupont reformulated it..then polish it with a wool pad, prefference of compoud for me is race glaze for black... then get a foam pad and glaze it with a foam pad glaze like 3m... if u want directions on how to do this pm me... this will take up most of the day since its black but outcome and grattitude of good honest DIY work.. will be ***** and definetly will have a mirror shine effect.. espacially after u foam pad glaze it.. dont wax ur car till after a month or so.... and keep it waxed after.. because blacks are just to well known for being dull in the future if u dont take care of it..< thats 5 stars there buddy so do it and dont do newbie stuff again...definetly use a buffer.. why use elbow grease when theres machines there to do the work for u..... best tip i can give u is wear a apron cause its gonna get messy and have ur compounds in a squeeze bottle, definetly start excercising ur back because dude... since u havent buffed a whole car before ill let u know its gonna be aching the next day.. you use muscles youve never thought u had before.. its definetly a work out..hope that helps
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S14 TrackSlut coming to a raceway near you... 510 TimeAttack on its way... Last edited by infinitexsound; 05-20-2005 at 05:27 PM.. |
05-22-2005, 09:33 PM | #29 |
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my friend's maxima got vandalized... so he used some kinda paint thinner, I'm not exactly sure what, but it cleaned up pretty decently....
here it is after it was vandalized: the closest thing I have to an after it was cleaned up pic is... his paint is still far from perfect and u can see evidence of the paint on certain body panel edges and stuff... but he plans to get a new paint job soon anyway so that will all be fixed soon. |
05-23-2005, 11:24 AM | #30 |
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in all honesty, I probably would have vandalized his z3 GTR maxima, too.
but whatever he used did a pretty good job of removing the spray paint
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