Climb385

just watched every episode, great work, as soon as i saw "jawn" i knew it had to be a pa near philly car. i lived in west chester for 3 years and i call everything a jawn now

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I can't seem to find a consistent answer on return bung placement. Higher is probably better, but considering my pan is already welded, is my location ok for return feed?



Thanks!

NiSilS14

It'll work, just isn't ideal. Optimally, you would as high and back as possible.

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@adamcs14

franklin93zx

Not the best way to go about putting a car together

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snatchmarks

Not this weekend but ill be out for the 22nd and 23rd for sure

Sent from my VS995 using Tapatalk

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is it in yet?

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short vid with minimal content. I went to the drift season opener in NJ and froze to death. still a good time though and definitely got me pumped to get out there

Mitsubayati

Nope. The bung is below the oil line which won't allow oil to flow freely out of the turbo. Put it up higher.

This is how I did mine: https://www.instagram.com/p/BQrWfKYF...ckbayati&hl=en

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obscene

not much new here, but I did recently pull the 911 out of hibernation which I recall some of you were interested in

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apologizes for the delay in updates. we've entered the stall period of any build where the little annoying stuff destroys any will to persist. also it's been really nice out lately.

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warning: nothing actually gets accomplished in this episode

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fun video of my daughter with an old nissan in a few scenes

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Here's a quick recap for the print audience:




I think that I've made a lot of progress over the past few weeks, however, at times it looks exactly the same as it did months ago.

We're in that frustrating nickel and dime phase of the project where the car only really needs a few more things, but those things come at $50 here and $50 there. The result is minor progress here and minor progress there; often without any "wow" moment afterwards. I think the plan now is to focus on getting the engine running. That will be a huge win and provide the energy, motivation, and youtube content to get over the hump.

Thanks!

Climb385

You going front mount set up or a mid mount? That turbo would love a mid mount, nice and fast spool times!

KAT-PWR

It will be fine, the pick up pulls in oil so it will drain. Not ideal, but will work

OP be careful with that manifold or it will set your car on fire.

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MRP Manufacturing

obscene

probably mid mount, but haven't given much thought to it honestly

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I didn't film it but I recently pulled the oil pan and moved the return bung to a better location.

With the manifold are you just talking about brake line clearance or are there other concerns I should be aware of?

KAT-PWR

Heat from the turbine will melt the plastic master cylinder reservoir

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MRP Manufacturing

anti tyler

He has a heat shield. it's in the video up there. but you're right. I purchased a shell that caught on fire from that exact ordeal.

it's funny you got that master, I have a RHD master cylinder I used on my previous KA. It's not a bad idea as long as you're careful rebending those lines.

You should ditch that manifold and pickup my manifold and down pipe.

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KA-T for life!
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mewantkouki

Oil drain bung should be above the level of the oil. I usually put them between the driver side motor mount and the back of the ac compressor in a spot that doesn't obstruct the oil pan bolt. Since this car won't be running AC, it really doesn't matter where it goes as long as it's higher up on the pan.

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some quality time with the old man

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Climb385

I would go with a mistu or isr ka rad, and fan shroud u!less you plan to run clutch fan, and as for your battery ground redo it to the strut tower, I did mine to the floor and it wasn't enough grounding for the car to want to turn over a sr, ka is a stronger compression motor, so I would also ground it to the strut tower, the trunk floor is very thin

Climb385

And just so you know you can fill the trans through the shifter hole if that plug doesn't come out

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true, I just thought it was a good universal tip to share

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coming down the home stretch here!

got my gauge panel wired up:


added a sticker for a lost friend:


and my wife directed a special father's day first start vid:

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Alright gang, I need your help again. I added an additional ground to the starter, so the engine is now turning over great.

Questions:
1. Do I need the dash connector (next to the ECU) in order to get spark? Specifically the orange Ignition Start wire? Is the tach wire connected to the coil circuit too?
2. Do I need the MAF in order to get spark?
3. Any other items in an Auto Single Cam -> Manual Dual Cam conversion that might be tripping me up? Neutral safety switch?

Thank you!!

greenwood

Should not need maf for spark.

Need to have distributor wired up right and ecu needs to be receiving/giving signal to give spark.

i dont think dash gauges matter.

Make sure your interlock relay is hooked up that may matter for the clutch.

Review an auto to manual how to to see where you missed something.