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Tech Talk Technical Discussion About The Nissan 240SX and Nissan Z Cars


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Old 10-13-2008, 09:16 AM   #91
monkeyslide17
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i would check the o2 and the maf. I had a problem like that b4 o2 went bad and the maf was bad 89 sr
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Old 10-13-2008, 11:46 AM   #92
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 0wn3r View Post
they check timing after each change?
Yep. It's the cams. Car has some type of aftermarket regrind or something. We're just going to go D-Jetro and resolve this crap.

I'll let ya'll know what happens after that.
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Old 11-03-2008, 02:12 PM   #93
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Installed D-Jetro. Car runs perfectly now. Found that I had aftermarket cams of some sort. Did some tuning, now the car runs perfectly.
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Old 11-03-2008, 02:44 PM   #94
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Im always right. I knew something wasnt stock. You had checked everything possible. Good job.
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Old 11-18-2008, 04:12 PM   #95
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Check your e-mail, I sent you some info. I had the same problem with my car and was able to correct it. Hopefully you can do the same.
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Old 05-20-2009, 02:00 PM   #96
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TTrx7Pete View Post
Right, but Zenki's have a rectangular plug. Chuki and Kouki both had oval MAF plugs. The crossover year, Chuki, ran a WC Ecu with a "kouki-style" MAF.

The Kouki SR20 uses an NA ecu with an oval MAF plug...

How were you able to plug up an Oval connector to the Rectangular MAF? Or is this just some confusion on my part?
Confusion, granted this is an old thread....

I will simply say. No they are not the same.


image borrowed from frsport. This is the water temp sensor from the s14 sr20 and the ka24de motors.

It requires a two pin plug with a push removal tab. I pulled one off of my ka24de harness and just changed it since the stupid sr connector needs one of those metal paper clip things to hold it on, it comes loose easy.

Testing it today reveals both the gauge sender temp wire is getting voltage, and the ecu temp sensor is also getting voltage and modulates as well so the ecu does see the engine temps.

oh.

This is the s13 sr20det one, and also ka24d


Sounds like the poster ended up buying this one instead.

I am having this problem as well, I suspect a vacuum leak somewhere, but not entirely sure.

I replaced a coil pack that was cracked, apparently that was not the problem, car is sparking fine, fuel delivery may be the issue but I had removed the injectors before from the intake manifold to clean it, and none of the o-rings were damaged.

timing is set perfectly.


The car idles fine at 800rpm, after revving it a few times it chills at 200 and slowly brings itself back up to 800rpm.

I don't think my IACV is the problem at all, but measuring voltage on my tps, I notice it did not change AT ALL.

I don't recall what it was, but having it probed, and then cranking the throttle the voltage did not change at all, but the wires are not shorted. I've tested them for continuity from the circuit board to the harness plug.

And again I got voltage, but it did not change.

My sr20 for some odd reason has a ka24de throttle body.

=/
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