slider2828

Yeah I just searched it.... ugh f.... oh wellz....

I want to get this all buttoned up in the next 3 weeks, so I guess right now its my only options anyway since most stuff backordered?

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TheRealSy90

Hit up Dan Brocket at the GkTech USA warehouse and see if they have any in stock.

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D-Clem

GKTech has some in the US already. Like he said, Dan Brockett handles their US stock and I got mine all the way in FL in like 3 days

corkscrew

anyone else running the CBF performance shifter? Ordered one on Black Friday

D-Clem

Read back in the thread, general consensus is they are junk and that’s if you even get it. Guys in here have waited months and months and never got them. Now, that being said, I don’t have any personal input on it because I have never used one or dealt with the company so I don’t want to say that that all is truth when I don’t know for sure. In fact, I think his stuff looks really good

Nissansota240

Friend has one installed (CBF Shifter) he really likes it, feels nice and smooth. I've driven the car a little and like it as well.

I've also had personal experience with a season with a GK Tech and also a Serial Nine each.

Hated the GK Tech, felt super notchy and was also to far back for my liking and just a cheaper shifter in general, but good for the price I paid. Then the next season I upgraded to the Serial Nine shifter because the CBF shifter I ordered was on month #7 of waiting for it, was awesome, but still felt like a short shifter ( I don't like short shifters though so some may enjoy it.) But overall was a great shifter.

Would suggest either CBF (if he has gotten better on shipping thing out) but for a few dollars more one can get the Serial 9 which has far better customer service.

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corkscrew

Yeah I did some research in this thread using the search bar. Just was seeing if anyone else would come out of the woodwork. Hopefully waiting months is not the case this time. I was unaware of the extreme waits. Thanks for the replies guys. If/when I get it I’ll post up some pics

slider2828

Cool thanks guys! But I already bought the whole thing from Mazworx.... Is it that crappy of an experience? I don't mind cutting as I saw the finish product, but does the shifting feel good?

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D-Clem

I don’t have a Mazworx shifter and wouldn’t call it crappy, because I haven’t used it. However I have just heard it’s a generic unit. I have the V2 GKTech and for the money I think it’s really hard to beat. I’m not a fan of short shifters either but from feel, it seems like I like it. It’s a bit close as far as gear spread pattern but it’s very positive and I think will be hard to misshfit. I’ll find out this weekend hopefully. Engine is in and almost ready to roll. I do wish my Serial 9 order would’ve shown up but it is what it is and I’d rather not support that kind of business practice anyway. If you can’t have it within even a months time of when you said you’d have it, then mark it as such or “out of stock but POSSIBLY ETA of...” Greg at GKTech has always been fantastic to me and I feel good about supporting his business and especially for what you get at the price. I’d like to know what the differences were in my V2 from the V1, but I really like mine.

TheRealSy90

My one real gripe with the Mazworx shifter was it required the linkage to be welded. And when I don't have welding equipment at my house that is a pain to me. I like when something is a bolt on experience such as the GkTech shifter and others. I don't see why they couldn't supply a pre assembled linkage for a bit more.

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slider2828

Hey final quick question, should I replace the input shaft bearing? Is it hard to do it yourself?

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D-Clem

Why? That all depends on the trans. I’m assuming you’re just thinking “while I’m there I might as well” I’m guessing? Well I Haven’t pulled a CD009 gearset apart, only done the bellhousing swap so I’m not extremely familiar with this particular trans but generally they are pressed on so depending on how far you tear the trans down, you may could use a puller or tap it off. I’ve built a few K series Honda’s and S2000 trans that were EXTREMELY tightly pressed but still came off without a press, as the press we had would’ve damaged the gears. Just saying that as a disclaimer but it could come off pretty easily after you pull the snap ring, I’m not sure. My multiple broken SR trans always came apart easily. But again, all depends on the trans condition. Would I do it just to freshen it up? No, but if you bought a high mileage setup then maybe you’ll want to.

D-Clem

Side note-dudes.... I got the car running and threw 6th today at like 25 lol in my neighborhood just to make sure everything worked... it was glorious. I will say, the GKTech setup is pretty close and I hit 3rd instead of 5th but I think that’s because I haven’t driven this car in months and wasn’t paying attention. I think after driving a bit and getting used to the throw, it’ll be fine. I REALLY like the shift feel with it. It’s so positive and just feels so damn solid. Like T56 notch solid but not T56 shitty notch feel and hard throw. It’s really really confidence inspiring when you feel it click in to gear

D-Clem

Also, last thing, we have discussed what some people have done for speed signal and I believe I’m going to just go GPS. We haven’t come to an agreement of what to factory signal actually is, there have been some arguments or just some disagreements over that. I would like to know what you all that have a factory speedo working have used and what input setting primarily. Also what is everyone running for gear oil? After much debate, and knowing these take the Nissan MTF GL4 85W I just decided to try MT90 since it’s a drift car and I will see how it feels over time and report back. After just driving at low speeds around my neighborhood, it feels solid, but curious on what everyone else has found to work or not work?

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slider2828

I always put amsoil gl4 stuff in my tranny. Always hated mt90 stuff because it felt a bit blotchy when cold.

Also quick question are people bashing the crap out of their tranny tunnels? If so how big of a hammer and where?

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TheRealSy90

I thought MT85 was the stuff for the Z33 trans. Redline.


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RalliartRsX

Just get the LOJ speed signal generator

D-Clem

That is correct, at the time when I looked there was a reason I did not get that but I don’t remember what it was. Maybe I couldn’t find it? I don’t remember but you are right that is the correct weight and that’s what I’ve heard some people are using

D-Clem

Thanks for the input. I didn’t have to modify my tunnel at all, literally nothing and I have a LOT of room around the bellhousing. That’s with the Mazworx bellhousing thoigh. Judging by the angle of the trans where I cut it fornthe bellhousing, it looks like if the stock bellhousing was used with an adapter plate or something then yea, you might need to bash it in but I can’t confirm that. Either way, it’s a bitch trying to get the setup back in the car without scratching anything with no tilter on your engine lift lol. I got er done but was like man, sure wish I had bought a tilter lol that trans is a big bitch

D-Clem

Funny you mention that, that’s what I originally was going to do but didn’t know if it was decent quality. Are you running one?

RalliartRsX

Not currently. Actually, now that I think of it, it is for a 300zx/cd009/LSX setup. I think the speed outputs are slightly different between the Z and the S chassis. It will work, but may need a little tweaking (via pulling the cluster and adjusting the actual gauge vie the blue box)

Another option is getting a ABS R200 diff and use that as the speed pickup maybe??

Those are the two options I am exploring as I wanted a mechanical speed drive (which more closely matches the OEM setup). Nothing wrong with electrical, just preference.

Yellow4g63

Anyone know of any threads anywhere that show the disassembly of the CD009 or the earlier year transmission?

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D-Clem

Yea I looked at them originally as well because I want mechanical and was just going to use that with a Dakota box. I don’t want to use an ABS diff or anything with a diff/axle setup as it’s a drift car and I just want to swap in parts quickly and not have to worry about matching stuff up or any of that. I think the LOJ setup is the best idea as it gives actual wheel speed instead of vehicle speed like a GPS unit and again, that works best in my case for a drift car and being able to use boost by gear accurately. I do have the gear sensor since i have a JK40C and I’ve kind of been toying with different uses for it but nothing really useful. Just kind of a cool idea

D-Clem

Yo! Trans is in and running. It does have a bit of what I think is unloaded input shaft clunking noise but I think it’s just all the solid mounts and shit. Just thought I’d let you know. I also had a question to see if you could figure out or knew the answer. So since this came out of one with the “synchrorev” it has a speed sensor on it that I see they use to monitor output shaft speed unlike the CD009’s and non synchrorev models. I’m currently trying to figure out A-where I can find a pigtail for it and B- what signal if outputs and if it would be usable. If so, it would be another plus to using a JK40C version. If anyone has any information on it please add to this. I can’t find any info at all about this speed sensor online as expected.

slideways2004

For the adapter plate that uses the auto bell housing for 2jz. Most are setup to use a t56 hydraulic throw out bearing.

Anyone have any experience with the oem gm t56 hydraulic tob? Or should I just upgrade to tilton hydraulic??

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RalliartRsX

So reviving this

HAs anyone used the current crop of stand alones for the square wave output (and using either ABS or similar) input?? It seems the current crop of ECUs is capable of generating both a signal for the tachometer as well as being able to adjust gear ratios, etc (inclusive of tire size) as need be.

I just picked up an ECUMaster to delve into this. I am thinking either ABS sensor, LOJ sensor or diff sensor for the input.

hanzbrady

If you run a display like racepak you could use their driveshaft speed sensor, or any of their other hall effect sensors with some fine tuning.

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RalliartRsX

LOJ is a hall effect sensor (however on the expensive side).

I am going with a Tablet/Bluetooth setup for race display. Also, the vehicle I am targeting has 3/4 channel ABS (the rear diff is actually 2 reluctor wheels on the output shafts tied into one sensor/pickup. Z32 diff btw for reference).

Easy button solution is tapping into the ABS signal and figuring out the wave generation for input paramaters for the ECU (which I am hoping is circulating around on the interwebs)

TheRealSy90

I think the expensive area of the LOJ kit is probably the wheel they made. It seems to be a pretty high quality kit.

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RalliartRsX

..........and the forged driveshaft yoke and billet sensor mount lol