steve shadows

Roots as in roots blower?

PM me

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punxva

i haven't made it to the dyno yet but last time i tried starting my ka-t with the new 440cc injectors all it does is flood out and foul plugs, i used a base tune i got from steve for the ign and fuel map and i have the timing set dead on. Everything seems to be working got fuel, and spark, it just doesn't want to fire. Any ideas on it? I'm running bikirom (i know it sucks but its a hold me over until i get my built motor back from the machine shop)

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steve shadows

I'm not sure what this has to do with dyno FAQ?

Have you tried contacting me privately?

I do not normally do any work for Biki Rom so this must have been quite a long time ago

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steve shadows

email me [email protected]

Ill help ya out

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fullthrottle

Steve whats a good data logging software to use? I have a tuned factory ecu with an afc neo. I would like something to hooks up to my computer and logs it there so i can see the entire graph.

steve shadows

I would really really really highly suggest getting away from the AFC with tuned ECU Setup, in hindsight in 05 i found out that was one of the main reasons I kept seeing detonation intermittently due to this...

the new haltech systems are amazing with onboard data logging for days and fully configurable tabs like tab browsing for the internet...takes a bit to get used to from the older E units (which are still my absolute favorite haltechs) but they are great to use for street tuning, dyno tuning and on track, street data logging.

There is an apexi unit however called the multi-checker you can look into this or you can look into data logging options from some of the rom modifcation comapnies...

Seriously though if you have been tuning this long and even if your motor is a champ on the current setup, moving from that setup to EMS alone will improve HP, torque and controllability and you can data log for years!

You won't regret it, just start saving a little by little, I can always help you remote tune for cheapo too, if your setup is pretty conservative you can get better power and easily adjust the fuel trim (just like you are with your AFC) with out interrupting any critical inputs like MAF etc with only a few keystrokes too

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mopar_nismo

it has rb20det
apexi ax53b70 tubo
front mont mount
no cat 3" turbo back all the way
walbro 255
right now its on 14 psi
i just bought a tomei ecu set up for these mods plus i will be bringing a n62 maf and some injectors.
can u tune the tomei ecu or will i have to get a apexi safc or something along those lines thanks ill be back in cali in a week and would like to get it tuned in about a month thanks
i believe its a stage 1 tomei pregressive ecu thanks i have also persinaly emaild u thanks

blingbling

Steve shadows, incredible knowledge and info useful to all tuners and customers looking to dyno tune in the future. I found this thread so useful Im dumbfounded

steve shadows

Got it thanks -

Anyone has direct questions on dyno or even dyno shops close to their area that I recommend if you're not in California I can try to help also.

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Praxis

The best dyno, currently, is an Aussie company called Mainline Dynolog. Its best feature imo is tha bi directional communication, usually over CANbus with over 50 ecus.

Accuracy is tough, because many factors come into play. It is well known that dynojet fudged their numbers high.

http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/engine/...-chassis-dyno/

For tuning, if it can hold steady state, its good to go. Load type dynos have a load cell that measures torque directly, but they still need to factor in roller inertia, absorber windage, bearing friction etc.

I've owned Mustang, Dynodynamics and mainline. Unmolested, they all read very close. But they are all very easy to fudge.

Dynodynamics and mainline are awesome for tuning as the rollers have crazy low inertia, and the brake does all the work. This means I can hit every single load point and cel that the car will ever see on the road.

I contacted Land and Sea at one time, and they could not do load control on the Dynodynamics dyno without adding a heavy flywheel to dampen the system. My old mustang dyno had a 2000 pound base inertia, and a dynojet is even more!

Praxis

1) best place for a wideband is immediately after the turbo, within say 18".
2) an easily a accessable second or 3rd bung is very welcome. If your ecu runs a narrowband, its best to keep that in place to verify operation during tuning. If ypu have your own wideban d, its nice to compare that with the dyno shops wideband.

MAKE sure your exhaust is good, no leaks, blown gaskets etc

Praxis

In the Nissan world, the biggest typical mistake I see is careless maf plumbing, and open to atmosphere blow off.

You should recirc your blow off with a typical draw through maf system, and pay attention how its plumbed yo not introduce turbulance to the maf.

Plugs, 90% of applications shoukd use copper NGK 4644, gapped at 0.026".

Stock pump wiring sucks.

rcefoonia

the best torque or power you can achieve with the minimum amount of timing in the tune. MBT can be achieved when you don't want to use more timing than you have to to hit your target output, the less the better.

rcefoonia

VERY interesting... thank you

kruked

Steve, I'm wanting to PM you about something other than this current topic but your inbox is full.

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