Stormagedon

Hey, everyone I know that the boosters are enter-changeable but in my rush to start a build I sold everything a few years ago. After realizing how much of an idiot I was I couldn't find the brake booster and figured I sold that too. I'm going 300zx brakes so I figured why not just get the booster with it. Now i'm stuck and I would really like to get some measurements form someone with the correct booster.

If any of you would like to help out and post some pictures of the brake booster 's threaded rod lengths (i know i have to cut them for the z32). As well as a picture of the pedal adjustment arm length so i know how long its supposed to be. It can be something as simple as a top down picture with a tape measure coming from the back where the firewall is.

Thank you ahead of time for all your help.

Croustibat

It is a brake booster. Use an S13/S14 one, dont change anything, job done.

Stormagedon

^Thanks for being constructive.

AzS13hatch

Curious why you want to run a different booster and do modifications to it, when the stock one is just fine. It's the master cylinder that makes a real difference. Sorry, I can't help you with measurements, good luck.

Stormagedon

I sold my brake lines, booster and bmc from my s13 3 years ago, I was planning on switching to the chasebay booster eliminator. Since its time to finish the project off and do my 5 lug swap and z32 brakes I decided to re-look up the chasebay product and everyone said it sucks. This lead me to try and figure out how to get another booster and which bmc to get. I found a bmc from a z32 on craigslist and he included the booster for 50$, i figured if it was compatible i should just make it work.

Update to original question, I figured it out through trial and error and when I go to finish painting and I pull it out, i'll post the lengths.

AzS13hatch

Ah makes sense if you have already bought one when buying the master as a pair. Glad you got it all figured out.

As for the booster delete, it is really hard thing to mess up. Now as far as having manual brakes goes, to each their own. I don't want them, but I also don't have an issue with stiff pedal feel that you get from it. It's a little more leg work, but the feedback you get is said to be direct as opposed to with a booster.

Stormagedon

Yeah, I'm doing a 2jz swap and I read on some reviews that when using manual brakes you loose the "oh sh*t" option to slam on your brakes. I figured with the added weight and power the last thing I want is to not be able to stop on the highway in case of an emergency.

Plus the bmc from chasebay had some issues form a previous user so i needed to spend 199 to buy a new one anyway. It was just as economical to try this and make new hard lines.

Croustibat

No booster is fine on light (1000lbs) car. Not ours. It is so stiff you need very soft brake pads to compensate... Everyone i know who went booster delete ended up putting it in again.

AzS13hatch

My roommate went booster delete(s13 coupe) and has no issues with it. I haven't driven his car(since booster delete) so I don't have personal experience but he likes it.

Croustibat

I am talking about braking efficiency, not "liking how it feels". I very much doubt your roommate tracks his car.

zombiewolf513

No booster is fine with some good pads that arent autozone shit.

Use a z32 master cylinder and s13 manual trans brake booster, there is no sense whatsoever in trying to convert the booster unless you have a specific mechanical reason to

AzS13hatch

Maybe a track only, or primarily track car. But for most of the s chassis community, booster delete is most definitely about how it feels, and of course they must actually stop the car. But honestly I don't care, I'm not getting rid of mine. My roommate drifts his car, no time attack or auto x or anything.