afiser

to follow up on this post

i put resistors on the illumination wire going to the buttons i changed to led's instead of putting it on the bulb and it seems to work totally fine. just put the resistor on the red with blue strip wire (12v illumination) that goes to the button and thats it. i put led's in my power window button (which was a bitch had to use hot glue to keep the led in place and still have power) and the defrost button and both buttons still function perfectly.

DFWZenki

Glad we could help!!
Where in dallas are you from?


Awesome. I was wondering if this would work.
Thanks for the follow up!

importdude

Here was my cluster and Dome light

__________________

built ka-t

smoakie976

How did you get your cluster to look that bright? I used the blue LEDs from superbrightleds.com the single beam and the needles are dark.

smoakie976

Mister.E

So im about to purchase some LEDs for my cluster and i would like to do the climate control at the same time. has anyone found any drop in LEDs that will work well in the USDM climate control and not cause hot spots? if not are there any good bright regular bulbs that can be used instead?

enkei2k

I used direct drop in from superbrightLEDs.com but it has hot spots best way if you don't want hot spots is to do what DaPCWiz did with his and solder them..

here's a pic of the drop in's I used:





from this link:
Instrument Cluster and Gauge Backlights - Super Bright LEDs

I used the NEOx wedge xHP and choose the 3mm size ones.

__________________
Ask enkei2k

xquizitditz

Mister.E

Damnit, those were the ones that i was gonna buy too. I guess ill just get some replacement bulbs and call it a day, i cant deal with hot spots nor do i care enough about my car to go through the trouble of soldering a bunch of LEDs in.

joshls2

just get some wide angle component leds w/resistors and wire them in. you might as well sense you have to take the whole thing apart anyway.

it shouldn't be that hard. eg. get 120º or 180º angle lights for the buttons and slider and a 360º for the blower speed knob. and if u flatten the dome top of the leds u'll get a way better light output to eliminate the whole hotspot issue.

heres a link for ya to show u what I mean: http://www.nissanpacific.com/forum/s...ead.php?t=4029

s14tan

Anyone know how to fix the light for the window switches in a S14??

__________________

ELECTRO

Hey, this thread is absolutely great. Thank you all so much for your input. I've got a couple questions even after reading through the thread twice.

1. When replacing ONLY the 3 main bulbs on the back of the instrument cluster with these bulbs (T3-1/4 (#194/168) type bulbs with High Power SMD. Wide Angle LEDs radially mounted emitting 360 degrees. 12 Volt DC operation), do you need to wire in resisters or is it a straight plug and play.

2. When you change said bulbs out, does that also light the needles as well? I've seen the intelliglow needle kits. Are those special needles that have an LED mounted in them?

3. Is the HVAC led swap out without hot spots going to basically be a good weekend project down the road? It seems that it's a bit time consuming to go in and place several smaller LED's to get good coverage. Does anyone have tutorial pics on this process?

Thanks everyone so much for your help. I'm really looking forward to getting back to my S14.5 . I'm even seeing if I can get someone to convert over my AEM gauges to blue instead of the standard red. It's going to look baller!!!

ELECTRO

Can you explain how to flatten it out? I would think doing something like sanding it down would dull the light output considerably. Do you mean by melting it down? Thanks.

Chay G

smd leds on cluster and corner lights




and a couple of this at my backup lights

EJ8 944

I think he means sanding them down, the diffused light will spread more evenly.

slydin240sx

Boss! More info on where you got bulbs? Links?

Turbo Nismo

That's how I want mine to look like! Sick!!

__________________
IG: chris___s14

J.bell

On Ebay Look up "194 SMD LED", for the large lights in the cluster, and "74 SMD LED" for the small corner bulbs and clock bulb. Alot of the Ebay stores for bulbs have pics of what the output light color looks like, and the angle of projection. If you get the "carbus error free", they have resistors already in the bulb carriers and should retain dimming function. One of the US sellers has these bulbs in 10 pks, 30$ for 194's, and 15$ for 74's. The great thing about getting ten is if you have changeable bulbs in your boost gauge etc. , you can swap those with the 194 left overs so they match the cluster lights. Also make sure u get them from a US seller, I made the mistake of ordering from Kong Hong and they took a month to arrive. And ontop of that, they were'nt white SMD's, they were normal leds that had a blueish output with lots of dark spots in the cluster. And Im not waiting two months for an exchange.

Dorifto Machine

Thanks for the links and such.

Question: My time was showing up on my s14 cluster and now it doesnt. It still looks like the digitizer is dim/ lit, but is that the bulb that I need to replace for the digits on the clock to show up or is it a malfunction with the cluster itself ?

J.bell

I dont think bulbs can fix that problem. Id say its a cluster problem. Bulb only illuminates the display so it can be read in the dark.

Promise Land

This thread has been helpful, so thanks for everyone that has posted. I looked at V-LEDS and superbrightleds.com (with a coupon code) for the options. I went with white on both options.

WLED-xHP5: LED T10 Wedge Base Bulb
Options: WLED-WHP5: Natural White -> bought 3

NEOx-xHP: NEOx High Power LED Instrument bulb
Options: NEO3-WHP: 3mm NEO3-xHP Cool White -> bought 3

I think the gauges will be a clear white, but the a/c lights may be a blueish tint. We'll see. Total with USPS shipping was $26.47 (after coupon code). The V-LEDS was about $28 with shipping (they make you buy pairs vs. individual bulbs).

I'll post the final pictures of before and after like others have done.

__________________
http://www.youtube.com/canaanmanley

blueshark123

whats the code i need to order from superbrightleds.

Promise Land

I used RE619 for a 5% discount. It was one one of their ads.

__________________
http://www.youtube.com/canaanmanley

WERDdabuilder

save yourself the time and just get some


no hotspots like with LED shit. i used the 5wedge LEDs for 1min and took them out because of hotspots(unless you do that shit right like mike from clear corners). put in the Sylvania and 10x better, BWM-esque.

__________________

az_240

^those are orange...... bleh.

No hotspots here and I use LEDs.
Still looking for a nice white #74 clock bulb...like this


All the ones I've tried are blue.

Promise Land

Has anyone reapplied the blue silicone covers from the OEM bulbs to the white LEDs?

__________________
http://www.youtube.com/canaanmanley

az_240

^They wouldn't fit.... you'd have to find some LEDs with a glass bulb OEM style housing. You're better off just getting blue or green LEDs IMO.

Dorifto Machine

I found the problem with the time not showing up. It was a fuse in the kick panel that was blown.

Dorifto Machine

Think you can take a shot of your cluster with the Sylvanias in it please, I would like to see the difference ?

slydin240sx

For anyone wondering what 194 smd led's look like in the s14 zenki corner lights. I have yet to decide on what color I want to use for my cluster. Sorry to get off topic a bit.

I ordered a pair for my license plate lights too.

kouki_drifter

i got the WLED-x5
Miniature Wedge Base Bulbs - Super Bright LEDs

on my yamaha R1 accent lights their pretty dam bright im using the cool blue, i was actually thinking of using them on my cluster i will post some pics of mine once its all done