sr20det0821

I think i read in earlier post that you have aftermarket electric fans in the car. make sure the fans are spinning the right way, if the electric fan is inside the engine bay after the radiator they should be pulling if they are in front of the radiator they should be pushing easy way to check this is put a piece of paper opposite side of where the fan is an see which way the paper is going while the fan is on

s13Cory

I have 3inch dual straight pipes, left one is black, the other is pretty clean compared to the other one.

s13Cory

Fan is going the right way.

Ilya

Clean the other exhaust tip, run the car through out the week to get some run time on the motor, see if the exhaust turns black again. In the mean time try to check the fuel pressure, and ecu codes.

s13Cory

Alright I'll do that. And the ecu I know should through the knock sensor code because its not plugged up. but I'll check and see if it throws more than just that one and I'll update back later today.

s13Cory

update: getting fuel pressure regulator tomorrow instead of spending money on a gauge and blah blah. also checked plugs, white at tips which im sure equals lean? so i cleaned them off, if i should check anything for that reason, let me know. ALSO checked the ECU for codes, still only pulling knock sensor.

EDIT: also, it doesn't sputter while idling, just pretty much has a rough idle. its when i drive the car is when it starts to skip/sputter every couple of minutes or so.

s13Cory

ANOTHER UPDATE

Just switched fuel pressure regulator, and it still does it, also looked like the other guy had already put a new one in so im gonna take mine back.

Ilya

When you say white tips, were there deposits or were the tips just white?

Spend $30 on this and it will tell you everything with ease.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Nissan-Consu..._Tools&vxp=mtr

-So FPR is good, still leaves fuel pump?
-Injectors?(while idling rough, unplug them one by one to see which one does NOT change the idle)
-Timing?
-Put a 500K resistor into the Knock Sensor connector
-MAF?
-TPS?
-Distributor is new?
-Spark plugs? Brand and heat range?

s13Cory

tips were just white.

And I'll try that.

The guy at the shop was messing with the timing, after i got it back, it was good till this happened and a couple days ago my brother moved the diss towards advanced because it was on retard and it started to idle fine, but when i started to drive it, it did it again, so i kept moving it and trying different places but it just messes up when you drive after doing that. IDk about the MAF and TPS and distributor is new. spark plugs like i said had white tips, so i sand papered and wire brushed them clean and still continued to do it. brand and heat range idk. how can i check?

s13Cory

checked the injectors, they all changed the idle of the car.

quickdiversion

Sounds like you either have no or very little coolant, A frozen thermostat, or a ton of air in your coolant system. I would check all these before you start on head gasket testing. Could be simpler than that.

s13Cory

Coolany is good, no air because I made sure I bled it well and good. thermostat is brand new and not over heating so i don't think its frozen. and head gasket is good. I think it has something to do with the timing but I don't know how to do that.

quickdiversion

Timing had absolutely nothing to do with excessive over heating, idle Or driving.

Your cooling system is a closed system, unless things like the headgaskets go.

Did you change the thermostat? Or were you told it was new?

I would pull it out and look at it, I would also take off any neck and piece that has silicon on b it. These are metal on metal surfaces and require very little silicon. Th here could be excessive silicon build up slowing down or blocking the coolant.


To reiterate, the cooling system is a closed system 99% of the time effected by the system itself.


I just reread your initial post again. The wet spot on the passenger spot, does it still accure?
Sounds like your heater core could be clogged.

s13Cory

I purchased the thermostat not too long ago, so I know its new. And I don't wanna pull it back out unless I absolutely have to because I don't wanna spend more money on coolant and another gasket. And when installing the gasket I put very little gasket sealer on it.

Before I picked it from the shop it was at, the guy was messing around with the timing, then it ran good for 2 weeks and then this happened. My brother messed with the distributor, it was on full retard so he moved it towards more advanced then it idled good, till you start to drive it for a second it'll start to mess up again and he said that has something to do with the timing I think so that's why I was starting to think it had something to do with timing.

And no, the wet spot appeared once and that was it. I've checked a couple more times after driving it, never appeared again.

quickdiversion

I still highly doubt it is your timing. I drove around for over a month with my exhaust came off 1 tooth and it never ran any different, cooler or hotter.

The heater core does not just randomly leak so that is odd. If you have all new coolant, just open the pet-cock at the bottom of the radiator and drain it into a clean container to reuse if you have to drain it again. I would open the return pipe up top and cap when it is cold, to let a little air into the system on purpose, try and bleed again and see if it burps the air out or not.

Quick question: Wen you squeeze the upper and lower rad hoses, do they crunch? or do they feel like new? Depending what coolant and how old it was before you got it, you may have a bunch of corrosion in your cooling system. Have you ever flushed it?

s13Cory

Does not crunch. Hoses are good. And I've had to put new coolant in it over about 6 different times not far from each other because of when I was dealing with the over heating issue which is now good.

s13Cory

took the car to one of my dads friends shop and see if he can figure it out.

s13Cory

Well for anyone who still cares, the shop said they don't want to work on the car because they have no idea what they are getting themselves into and it could cost us hundreds and hundreds of dollars so I had to go and pick it up. But when I did, it ran pretty good on the way home from the shop (which is about 10-15 minute drive), and I drove it around this morning and for like 40 minutes, still drove pretty good but I have no idea how..and by good I mean it doesn't have that rough pop that comes out the exhaust when idling or driving.