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Old 03-20-2010, 03:17 PM   #2821
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dato View Post
U think the 110 mig welders could penetrate the material to weld a standard roll cage? Never tried it. Maybe pre heat the metal and weld??
I would not recommend it, but I know it has been done. Properly pre-heating the cage in the car is tough since paint is on the other side of the metal being heated.
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Old 03-20-2010, 05:58 PM   #2822
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yea, it could be done. i tried welding a piece of scrap .120 wall dom with my old lincoln 140v mig. it would start out fine, but didnt have a good enough duty cycle to keep anything decent going. i would only be able to weld about 3 inch sections before i had to turn it off to cool down.

not fun if youre going to do a cage
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Old 03-20-2010, 06:16 PM   #2823
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Quote:
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U think the 110 mig welders could penetrate the material to weld a standard roll cage? Never tried it. Maybe pre heat the metal and weld??
No... End of story.
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Old 03-20-2010, 06:29 PM   #2824
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What dimensions should I use for a "HMIC"?
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Old 03-20-2010, 10:07 PM   #2825
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Picked up a sweet little lathe today. Has auto feed on 2 axis and variable speeds.
Under $800
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Old 03-20-2010, 10:24 PM   #2826
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Quote:
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Picked up a sweet little lathe today. Has auto feed on 2 axis and variable speeds.
Under $800
Dude that's awesome. I might have to play with that next time I'm up there and make some SAE->metric misalignment spacers.
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Old 03-20-2010, 10:33 PM   #2827
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can someone give me a quick run down on these misalignment spacers?
Pretty sure I missed it in the roll centre thread.... don't really wanna go searchin through 20 pages to find out.
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Old 03-20-2010, 11:01 PM   #2828
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Machined a new ebrake handle.

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Old 03-20-2010, 11:03 PM   #2829
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So it just spinsa and u adjust the cut? Is it easy to operate?
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Old 03-22-2010, 09:00 PM   #2830
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Spring break progress. Cars been running the ls1 for 2 years. Aprox 15k. Lots of California HPDE events. Theres been a few revisions I wanted to make to the swap. Run a full crossmember, Push motor back. Run softer mounts, Finally running a cam

Got a Flowmeter regulator for my gas coverage, and using the the diaphragm regulator for my backpurge. That "t" fitting was expensive for just brass. $25, and thats being hooked up.

Backpurging is amazing! I didn't want to risk sugaring
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Cut down the sump, added addition capacity off to the right side.


Heat= warping. Bolted the pan to the block to do the welding. Added that copper strip to absorb some of the heat.
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Old 03-22-2010, 09:16 PM   #2831
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Quote:
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So it just spinsa and u adjust the cut? Is it easy to operate?
kinda, you have to know feed rates, cutting speeds, be able to keep a good bit. but lathing is pretty easy. i made some pretty good looking stuff in school for my manufacturing class. i want a lathe, but i'd really have very little use for it. i could make shift knobs i guess.
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Old 03-22-2010, 10:48 PM   #2832
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i made my aluminum shift knob on a lathe. its fun and easy to learn.
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Old 03-22-2010, 11:46 PM   #2833
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Quote:
Originally Posted by atutt View Post
can someone give me a quick run down on these misalignment spacers?
Pretty sure I missed it in the roll centre thread.... don't really wanna go searchin through 20 pages to find out.
Misalignment spacers sound like they're for suspension geometry lol, but they're actually just the inserts that go into spherical rod ends. "spacers", etc, lots of names.

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Machined a new ebrake handle.
I have lathe envy. I've wanted one so bad for like 3 years now, dont have the room. Now I'm gonna have to make something on the $30k Femco mill at work so you'll have something to be jealous about lol.
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Old 03-23-2010, 04:07 PM   #2834
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Exclamation LS2 Fuel rail Mod.

It's been a while since I've really done anything on either of my cars but I redid the whole fuel system on the Lsx the other day with a double pumper setup in the back feeding a -8 to a earls filter up to the stock rails that I cut and removed the baffles on swapped the cross over hard line for a -6 up front to connect both rails and institute a return system to a Aeromotive fpr and returned with a -6. I was really having issues getting the motor to run 57psi of fuel pressure even with the corvette filter/regulator is was still running in the 70s. Anyway heres a few pictures of the project. "Sorry for the crappy iphone pictures"

Stock Rail: after I started cutting




New crossover:







Looks pretty stock:



Got my Track car back from paint, Porsche Gt3 rs green.



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Old 03-31-2010, 09:52 AM   #2835
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Started welding school in January. LOVE IT!

Ive been sucking at welding for the past 5 years(self taught), and now I have an excellent instructor to tell me why I suck!

Started off with stick in Feb., just surfacing with different rods and just recently moved on to joints.

6010 root pass
my best one so far



And the new pit bike we made at our shop.
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Old 03-31-2010, 02:59 PM   #2836
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how the hell u get on the bike?>
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Old 04-01-2010, 10:14 AM   #2837
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how the hell u get on the bike?>
pegs in the back. haha
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Old 04-01-2010, 12:49 PM   #2838
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That bike is rad.

Here is a custom tubular front crossmember I made for a 260z/rb26

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Old 04-01-2010, 02:35 PM   #2839
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Blue when u do such thing do u drop the motor in with a engine hoist and mock it up like that? Or how do u start or the steps?
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Old 04-01-2010, 02:44 PM   #2840
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I have a big metal table on wheels. I put the engine onto that then lower the car down on top of it. Once everything is lined up correctly I start the fab process.


O BTW. I just passed my AWS welding test today for 4130. Woot.
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Old 04-01-2010, 03:52 PM   #2841
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CWB > AWS lol
(seriously... cwb> aws for technical reasons, lol)
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Old 04-01-2010, 04:04 PM   #2842
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Blu808 > atutt



lol
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Old 04-01-2010, 05:43 PM   #2843
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that crossmember looks boss
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Old 04-01-2010, 07:22 PM   #2844
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lol
lol, I concur...
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Old 04-02-2010, 05:03 PM   #2845
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Charge pipes, these are guesstimates at the moment, I dont have the intercooler or couplers yet but they're pretty close to where I need them.





I'll finish them next week when I get the core and couplers in.

Having less than 3 feet of intercooler piping should be awesome.
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Old 04-02-2010, 05:41 PM   #2846
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^^ looking good man ..
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Old 04-03-2010, 01:30 PM   #2847
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so i need some help with tig aluminum. i'm running a miller syncrowave 180, AC, 3/32 pure tungsten, 1/16 filler rod, and staright argon at around 15 cfm.

I just recently got this machine, and havent tig'd anything except steel before. i was trying to do a butt weld on some 2.5" od aluminum intercooler pipe. when i would go to start the weld, the arc jumps around erratically and sounds terrible. it doesnt even start to melt the metal until i put alot of heat into it...somewhere around 90 amps. when it starts to melt, the arc seems to smooth out, but it just burns through no matter how much filler i add and leaves a black soot kind of deposit. i cleaned the piece with a wire brush before trying to weld it.

can you guys give me any pointers or tell me what i'm doing wrong?

thanks!
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Old 04-03-2010, 01:39 PM   #2848
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^^^ When people have welded aluminum for me, it seems like they're modulating around 80-90 amps, and they always get the material suuuuuuuuuuper clean. Black soot is most likely dirty aluminum. Those that are actually good at it should probably chime in lol.
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Old 04-03-2010, 03:40 PM   #2849
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Quote:
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so i need some help with tig aluminum. i'm running a miller syncrowave 180, AC, 3/32 pure tungsten, 1/16 filler rod, and staright argon at around 15 cfm.

I just recently got this machine, and havent tig'd anything except steel before. i was trying to do a butt weld on some 2.5" od aluminum intercooler pipe. when i would go to start the weld, the arc jumps around erratically and sounds terrible. it doesnt even start to melt the metal until i put alot of heat into it...somewhere around 90 amps. when it starts to melt, the arc seems to smooth out, but it just burns through no matter how much filler i add and leaves a black soot kind of deposit. i cleaned the piece with a wire brush before trying to weld it.

can you guys give me any pointers or tell me what i'm doing wrong?

thanks!
I am VERY new to MIG welding. Never done TIG, but I've been reading a lot. I have read you should use a different brush for aluminum to prevent contamination and make sure everything is VERY clean. Any input on how important the brush is from experienced aluminum TIGers?
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Old 04-03-2010, 05:00 PM   #2850
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When I practice TIG on aluminium, I brush my coupons real quick, nothing thorough then if I feel like it, I hit with some acetone. But that's for practice stuff. You can usually get away with just hitting the scrap piece with a Stainless brush and practicing.
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