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Old 05-07-2007, 07:11 AM   #511
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I don't think anythings messed up, it's running very strong.

I think it was a combination of coming off the line slow and only running 7-8 psi. Not to mention I don't have a tach yet so my shifts are by ear currently.

Anyone want to sell me a DOHC cluster?

Or I could get one of those HUGE tach's like the sweet vtak honda users get
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Old 05-07-2007, 07:29 AM   #512
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Hmmm.

I have a DOHC cluster but i'm kinda using it...

Just go spend $5 and get a corny tach until you get a cluster.
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Old 05-07-2007, 06:23 PM   #513
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So I was doing some wiring today and I noticed that the wire that connects to my alternator was glowing

Tried to tighten it some and it broke off...

Hopefully I can just replace the post? Hope I don't have to get a new alternator.
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Old 05-07-2007, 07:19 PM   #514
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i still have my spare dohc cluster if you are in need
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Old 05-07-2007, 07:25 PM   #515
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zaneithan View Post
i still have my spare dohc cluster if you are in need
If you still have it next Tuesday, I'll take it off your hands. My funds got kinda screwed up after the swap.
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Old 05-07-2007, 07:47 PM   #516
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PM sent length
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Old 05-08-2007, 07:30 AM   #517
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Did a little research earlier and it appears I can use my KA alternator on the SR after swapping the pulley. Should save me some $$$.

Also, I took a look at the SR alternator this morning (since it was brighter outside than last evening) and it seems that there may have been an extra nut on the post (I have no clue why). With that in mind, I may be able to secure that contact with the nut that's still on there since there's still enough of the post left to thread it on there and tightly secure it.

Either way it doesn't look like I'll have to get a new alternator, which is awesome.

EDIT: By the way. This thing:




Has freakin' grown on me. Looks awesome in the car. It's kind of in the way from like... 0mph to 10mph but it's really not that bad.
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Old 05-08-2007, 07:46 AM   #518
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Where'd you get the gauge thing and how much?

I want one.
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Old 05-08-2007, 07:51 AM   #519
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Farzam View Post
Where'd you get the gauge thing and how much?

I want one.
Right here my friend, 39$.

http://www.frsport.com/index.php?tar...dfff8b46f95f2e

They sell them all over egay, but they are always marked up like 10$ to 20$ and then another 10$ for shipping. I'll get some in car pictures this evening.
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Old 05-08-2007, 07:56 AM   #520
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Gracias.

Looks like your swap is basically done...

So what's next? Suspension? Wheels? Aero? Big floppy donkey kak?
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Old 05-08-2007, 08:03 AM   #521
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Farzam View Post
Gracias.

Looks like your swap is basically done...

So what's next? Suspension? Wheels? Aero? Big floppy donkey kak?


Yeah, just a few loose ends to tie up but that's really it. Besides an alarm system, next will be wheels and tires + suspension.

While I'm doing that I'm going to start on my stereo/carputer since I already have some of the parts. I can barely hear the stereo over my exhaust now without the speakers popping. I believe they're still the stock speakers so they've gotta go.


I'm going to be starting some serious fiberglass fabrication of my dash and trunk probably next weekend sometime since it's relatively cheap.
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Old 05-08-2007, 08:13 AM   #522
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I'm so happy my vert came with the boom booms already.

Please tell me you're getting at least 18s.
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Old 05-08-2007, 08:18 AM   #523
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Quote:
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I'm so happy my vert came with the boom booms already.

Please tell me you're getting at least 18s.

haha, no sadly I'm not. I'm only getting one 10" in order to keep the setup small and light. For the music I listen to, a 10" is plenty.
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Old 05-08-2007, 08:20 AM   #524
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No need for dynamat in that case.

I might be getting a bigger sub in a couple days, if I do i'll be PM'n you.
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Old 05-09-2007, 06:16 PM   #525
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So I went to get the SR and KA alternator's tested and they both failed

I'm trying to find an SR alternator online but I'm having a bit of trouble. There's one on eBay, but I don't particularly like buying parts off there.

Is there any benefit to getting the SR alternator as opposed to another KA alternator and replacing the pulley(besides ease of install)?

Sucks I can't drive the car.
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Old 05-09-2007, 07:49 PM   #526
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jrmiller84 View Post
So I went to get the SR and KA alternator's tested and they both failed

I'm trying to find an SR alternator online but I'm having a bit of trouble. There's one on eBay, but I don't particularly like buying parts off there.

Is there any benefit to getting the SR alternator as opposed to another KA alternator and replacing the pulley(besides ease of install)?

Sucks I can't drive the car.
Your alternator failed too? wow small world...
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Old 05-10-2007, 07:16 AM   #527
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Yeah, must be a Florida thing...

BTW, just sent Enjuku a message about it, we'll see what happens.

Can't wait to get it running again. Going from driving the 240 to a Ford Taurus is quite a stark difference.
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Old 05-10-2007, 05:18 PM   #528
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Just slap a KA alt on there. From my experience they are the same except you have to drill the threads out on one of the KA mounting holes.
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Old 05-11-2007, 02:11 PM   #529
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SR In Conclusion

In Conclusion [Back to index]

This is a post I've been meaning to write for a while but I've been too busy enjoying the fruits of my labor

I want to give a synopsis of key points of the install process. Some of the key points I'd like to hit are tool and supply recommendations, mistakes I made, resources I used, and some overall pointers. I will start with the tool and supply recommendations.

Tools and Supplies

When doing the swap, a full set of tools was a must(as most install guides online mention). Luckily, there are only a hand full of special tools involved. Here is a full list of the tools that I used and some tips about them. If I'm wrong on some sizes or something, please let me know. I want this to be accurate and I'm pulling all of it out of my head right now.

Tools
  • Engine Hoist and Load Leveler
    • $170 total for both at Pep Boys, not bad. If this is your first swap, I would recommend buying one rather than renting. You really won't have any idea how long you need it. I sold mine pretty quick after the swap too.
  • Jack and Jack Stands
  • 10mm - 27mm Socket set
  • 10mm - 27mm Wrench set
    • If I remember correctly I only used up to a 20mm wrench although I could be wrong. I would still recommend getting up to a 27mm. 27mm is the size of the bolt on the crank pulley which is the largest on the engine.
    • I would also recommend (if you have the $, definitely not required) getting some of those new-fangled wrenches that have a socket-esque closed end on them. They help when you need to get into small places. Wal Mart sells a 10mm - 20mm Stanley set of these for 50$.
  • Assorted sizes of socket wrenches
  • Socket wrench extensions
    • You will need these quite a bit. Especially to get to the bolts on the downpipe from underneath the car.
  • Phillips Head Screw Driver
  • Straight Slot Screw Driver
  • Pliers
  • Needle Nose Pliers
  • Vice Grip Pliers
  • Wire Stripping Tool
  • Rounded Nut/Bolt Puller
    • Get these only if you encounter a rounded nut/bolt. I only needed mine for one nut but I'm glad I have them now for other things that may come my way. Around 20$ at Sears.
  • Breaker Bar
    • For fuck sakes, get one of these. It will make your life a whole lot easier. I used it almost every day when taking things apart and tightening things that needed to be crazy tight. I'm willing to go as far as saying this is a required tool.
  • Torque Wrench
    • This is not an option, you will need this. If you do not use this, expect problems. You will most definitely need this when replacing your cluch or flywheel as well as bolting the tranny back up to the motor among other instances. Try to get one that reads at minimum 100 ft/lbs of torque. They are expensive, I warn you.
  • Soldering Iron
  • Compression Tester
  • C-Clamp Pliers
    • Also known as Compression Ring Pliers. I would recommend getting a decent pair of these. You will need them for getting the C-Clamp off of your shifter as well as mounting your BOV into it's flange on the hotpipe. The C-Clamp for my BOV was EXTREMELY hard to get on due to the clamps sheer strength and only a strong pair of these would do.
  • Knife (Came in handy quite often)
  • Drill (A strong cordless if there is no electricity)
  • Assorted Drill Bits
  • Timing Light
  • Tap and Die Set
    • This isn't required although it could prove very useful if you round a bolt or need to put threads into a hole.
  • I'm sure I'm missing some tools here, this is a running list.
Supplies
  • 4 Qt's 10W-30 Synthetic Oil
    • Check FSM for proper oil weight based on your average temp.
  • 950 Ml's 75W-90 Gear Oil
    • Once again, check the FSM.
  • A few gallons of distilled water
  • Antifreeze
  • Zip Ties
  • Average gauge wire
    • I believe I stuck with 16-18 gauge for most of my wiring. Try to match the gauge of whatever wire you're working with.
  • Wire shrink wrap
  • Liquid wire wrap
    • Not required, but it's a nice added layer of protection for your wires if you're anal.
  • Solder
  • Plastic Wire loom
    • Not required, but makes for a nice finished look.
  • Loctite
    • A lot!! Use it on a lot of nuts/bolts to keep them in place. You will want to use it on your flywheel bolts if you choose to replace it.
  • Random sized metal clamps
  • Shop towels - A lot of them.
  • Brake Cleaner
    • You will need this to clean your flywheel off as well as other parts. If you're anything like me, you'll put your greasy hands on your brake rotors by accident. You'll need this to get that grease off. Get a couple cans of it.
  • Power Steering Fluid
  • Some type of oil absorbent substance.
    • I thought using painters plastic to catch all of the fluids was a good idea and a way to keep the unit clean. I was dead wrong. Once parts started coming off of the KAE, the plastic would rip and fluids would get everywhere. Just use some of the typical absorbent gravel or something and sweep it up.
  • Once again, this is a running list. I'll be adding stuff as I think of it (or as people remind me).
Mistakes and Tips

I've kept quite a few of these in my mind since I started this swap, so get ready for me to vent.
  1. Do not do the swap in a storage unit UNLESS IT HAS ELECTRICITY! There were so many times when I needed more light or maybe a fan or something in there. It was frustrating. Would have been nice to have some music as well.
    • EDIT: Here's another reason not to do the swap in a storage unit. One night when I wasn't there, the container that I stored all of the fluids that leaked out of the car fell over and got all over the floor. What's worse, it leaked into the two adjacent storage units. With that being said, I am being evicted as well as having to pay to clean my unit and the two units next to me. Good times. Regardless, it was my mistake so I have to pay the price. Don't make my mistakes people.
  2. Do not do the swap in a storage unit that is 10x20 ft unless that's all you can afford. It will work, you can fit everything(the car, two motors and tools), but it's crazy tight. A few more feet would have been awesome. This also hinders your ability to be neat and organized. The space was so small that the instant I would finish cleaning up and start working again, it would be right back to being hideously dirty and unorganized.
  3. Do as much as you can with the motor out of the car. A few stupid things I did caused me huge losses of time. For example:
    1. Replace the oil pan when the motors out. I thought it would be easy to get to with the motor in, but it's not. The three bolts on the back are hidden by the engine crossmember which means you have to jack the motor up and that really only gives you a few inches of space.
    2. Put the slave cylinder on the tranny before putting the motor in. If you remember, my tranny fork was the wrong size. I had to take my motor out and take the tranny off to replace it which set me back quite a few days since I had to disconnect everything.
    3. Something else to replace are the tranny sensors. You can reach all but one when the motor is in, and that's the reverse sensor. You may be able to replace it while it's in (I couldn't) as it is accessible, it's just hard to get a good turning radius with the angle it's at.
    4. Oil filter.
    5. Do as much as you can with it out, period.
  4. Get one of those shop jumpsuits you can put on to cover your clothes. I ruined quite a few shirts and pants over the past two months. I thought it would wash out but I was wrong. Luckily most of the pants I wear are pretty dark so you can't see the stains but some of my shirts suffered.
  5. GET HELP! I can't stress this enough. I did the entire swap by myself, yes it can be done, but I would not recommend it. What if the car or motor would have fallen on me when I was doing the swap? I would have had no one to help me. Be safe people, get some help if you're going to be under the car or hoisting the engine.
  6. This may be a hot topic, maybe not. When I first started seriously considering doing the swap myself, I gathered as much information in as many forms as I could. That included bookmarking pages online, talking to people(Zilvia, Enjuku, Acquaintances, mechanics, people in the community in general), and buying whatever resources I could find. One such resource was the DVD Shift 180 on drifting.com. This DVD contains a full walk-through of the swap by someone very much like myself, a first timer. Would I recommend this DVD to a newcomer? Sure, but with a bit of advice. Be very careful when watching and taking mental notes. I got a few bits of misconstrued information out of that DVD that slowed me down at some points. For example, when he is explaining how to change the clutch he mentions that the clutch disk should spin and then "lock in place." Keep in mind I had never messed with a transmission in my life. When I put the clutch on, I spun the alignment tool but it never locked in place which scared me because I thought something was wrong. Nothing was wrong. The alignment tool just aligns the clutch disk's hole with the input shaft hole on the motor, it doesn't actually snap or lock into place. Just be careful if you decide to get this DVD and check your information if you're unsure of something. If anything, it's a good visual reference and also explains things to watch out for that he screwed up on, much as I'm doing here. Learn from his and my mistakes.
  7. Don't be cheap and take your time. People who just browse onto the site looking to build some "s1ck dr1ft [email protected] y0" think they can get away with buying a motor on eBay and swapping it in for dirt cheap over a weekend. This is preposterous. I spent well over the amount of money most people spend for their swaps because I wanted to do it myself and I wanted to do it right. I spent probably 8k-9k total on my swap and it was definitely worth every penny. I know my car runs solid and I don't doubt one piece of hardware on it. Swapping an SR20 is not cheap when done right. That's not to say you couldn't save more money than I did and have a solid swap, but it will still cost you a pretty penny.
  8. DO NOT DO THE SWAP IF YOU ARE FULL TIME WORK AND FULL TIME SCHOOL. If you have AMAZING time management skills, MAYBE do it, but I will say my school suffered severely this semester. Out of four classes, I only passed two of them, and not by much. It's not that you will be working on the car the entire time, but if you're like me you'll be thinking about it 24/7. It makes it incredibly hard to focus on school when you can't stay off of the forums long enough to study. Do the swap during the summer if you're in school or SERIOUSLY take your time. School should have been my #1 priority and I screwed up. Luckily I'm paying for my school out of my own pocket so no one else got shafted except myself.
  9. Document everything, it helps for reference down the road. That's one reason I started this thread, not to mention to help the community.
  10. As if Zilvia members haven't stressed this enough...

    SEARCH!!!

    I found almost every answer via the search feature and/or Google. Now that this build is finished, you REALLY should have all of the resources you need.
  11. I'm sure I'll come up with more here soon.

Resources


And lastly, here are some of the resources I used as well as retailers I bought parts from.
  • Enjuku Racing
    • I bought my entire swap from these guys. Everything went perfect, not a single problem. They are all very helpful and will answer all of your questions if you're courteous with them. Give them your business, they deserve it!
  • The Ultimate 240sx Bible
  • Heavy Throttle SR Install FAQ
  • The 12 Volt
    • Used them to locate the color codes for certain wires under the dash.
    • Also a must for doing stereo and alarm installs
  • SPL Parts
  • FRSport
    • These guys have the absolute BEST wiring harness write up out there. I cross checked mine with Heavy Throttle's harness write up and it checked out. I haven't had a single problem, worked on the first try.
  • WeSellCarParts
    • These guys do advertiser specials on Zilvia. Got my water temp gauge from them for a really good price. Quick shipping as well.
  • Shift 180 DVD
  • Zilvia Search and Google
  • NissanPerformanceMag.com 240SR Writeup
  • FACTORY SERVICE MANUALS!!!
    • Download, read, eat, sleep, and breath this manual. Don't ask questions before looking here and then searching. Use the S14 SR20DET manual if you are doing an S13 swap. Some things are different but it's mostly the same info. All torque specs are the same.
In conclusion, I would like to say thanks to everyone who helped me. Thanks Statik for all of your extremely helpful information, would have screwed something up for sure without your expertise. Farzam, thanks for kicking me in the ass to do it myself, haha. Thanks to the guys at Enjuku, I don't believe they read this but they still deserve to be thanked. And to everyone else who helped over the past few months, I thank you immensely. I would be here all night if I tried to thank everyone but in the same breath, I wouldn't be here at all if it weren't for Zilvia as a whole.


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Old 05-11-2007, 02:53 PM   #530
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Amazing!!!

You have truly served as the best “how to” source for myself as well as many of my friends and fellow swappers.

This is the most complete, well maintained, and well thought out swap thread that I have ever read on any forum.

I just have to say thank you for your final posting here because your resources will help anyone looking to do a sr swap. This thread will forever be on my fuckin desktop for future reference as I complete my own project car.

Again, Thanks!
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Old 05-12-2007, 12:39 AM   #531
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Awesome thread from beginning to end
Thanks alot for that it'll help me in the future and a lot of other people I guess

And good fun with the SR
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Old 05-13-2007, 04:36 AM   #532
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This thread is so much better now that i'm mentioned.

Hey, IM me or PM me if you need an alternator. If you need it I can scrounge up some shipping money I bet...
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Old 05-13-2007, 12:38 PM   #533
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w00t, thanks for the write up jrmiller... definately a page to bookmark!

oh and btw do you have any clips of your car in action?!
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Old 05-13-2007, 07:10 PM   #534
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w00t, thanks for the write up jrmiller... definately a page to bookmark!

oh and btw do you have any clips of your car in action?!
Look back through the thread, there are 2 or 3 of them.
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Old 05-13-2007, 08:53 PM   #535
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glad to help, always nice to see someones hard work pay off, good luck with the car
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Old 05-24-2007, 07:29 PM   #536
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Sorry haven't really read this for while, but good job yet again, congratulations, and have fun... I enjoyed every post as I mentioned before, and will probably be doing this myself once I get out of school and saved up enough money, but of course, I will get help, just so I don't get frustrated and end up breaking something Again, congratulations, have fun, and be safe
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Old 06-07-2007, 08:35 PM   #537
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Congrats and nice to see our small sale, a small piece of the puzzle, still gives us a link in your thread.
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Old 06-07-2007, 10:43 PM   #538
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I would like to see pics of the gauge pod all hooked up. Great build up all along...
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Old 06-07-2007, 11:31 PM   #539
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Congrats and nice to see our small sale, a small piece of the puzzle, still gives us a link in your thread.
Well, as you mentioned, just like a puzzle, my build wouldn't have been complete without it. I've needed a new water gauge for a while, the stock one liked to just go apeshit and top out even when the car was running cool at night. Thanks again!

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I would like to see pics of the gauge pod all hooked up. Great build up all along...
Most definitely. I'm about to start a rather huge project with my dash so I'll take some pictures after that. A writeup will come along with it, so check back later. It's going to be pretty custom stuff so it may only serve as a fabrication guide to some.

You guys should like it, it'll definitely be one of a kind.
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Old 06-08-2007, 12:26 AM   #540
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Don't be cheap and take your time. People who just browse onto the site looking to build some "s1ck dr1ft [email protected] y0" think they can get away with buying a motor on eBay and swapping it in for dirt cheap over a weekend.
first off, I bought a redtop off ebay for $1500 + shipping. It came from a company called sunrisejdmauto and is still one of the cleanest, and most complete swaps Ive ever seen come off a pallet. I have since learned, from buying other shit off egay, that I will never again buy things off there.
Second, yes you can do a swap in one weekend. A guy I know in dallas that can do the complete swap in 4 hrs. By HIMSELF. running and all.
Third, I once thought that I would be able to do the swap in a few weeks. 8 months later, I know different! To do shit right takes quite a while. Be patient.
And fourth, I want to give u a pat on the back for doing a swap in a storage unit! mad props to you, and it looks like your swap came out pretty good.
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