jaysgottaredtop

i was in a jam recently and figured out that using the KA24DE P/S pump AND PULLEY on an SR20DET fits fine. i can't find ANY info online about this specific conversion (since everyone claims you have to use an SR pulley), so i'm making a new thread for it. if anyone else wants to chime in, please do!

the SR P/S system has a 4-rib crank pulley and a 4-rib pump pulley. the KA P/S system has a 3-rib crank pulley and 3-rib pump pulley. the KA pump pulley doesn't line up with the SR crank pulley... unless you flip the KA pump pulley, then it lines up straight with the front 3 ribs on the SR crank pulley. from there, it's just a matter of getting a 3-rib belt in the correct length (which turns out to be around 945mm or 37.2").

you'll need:
- SR20DET
- SR20DET P/S bracket (the fat cast iron one that bolts to the block)
- SR20DET tensioner/bracket (or you can ghetto rig your own tensioner like i did; the KA tensioner will not work with the SR pump bracket)
- KA24DE P/S pump
- KA24DE P/S pulley
- KA24DE P/S lines
- MasterPro Belt # K030365 (or any comparable 3-rib ~945mm belt)

to install:
attach the KA pump to the SR bracket and remove the KA pulley from the pump.


install the SR tensioner OR be ghetto like me and make your own tensioner with a long bolt and some sort of closed-end tube against which the bolt can push and pivot the pump.


install the KA pulley *UPSIDE-DOWN* onto the KA pump. yes, its still spins freely.


grab a 3-rib ~945mm belt from the parts store. i got a MasterPro K030365 (3-rib, 943mm).




install the SR bracket, KA pump/pulley, and new belt onto your SR.


the flipped 3-rib KA24DE pulley will line up perfectly with the front 3 (out of 4) ribs on the SR20DET crank pulley.


now your entire P/S system is practically identical to the stock KA24DE system, so it's just a matter of hooking in all of your stock KA P/S lines and adding fluid!



TL;DR for the lazy folks: SR engine, KA pump, flipped KA pulley, MasterPro K030365 belt.

hope this helps. feel free to ask questions, i'll do my best to answer them!

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zenki 95

I'll do that when I get home haha

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zenki time! "Cant buy weed and pussy with disney dollars"

jaysgottaredtop

^ for what it's worth, this write-up is specific to a redtop SR20 in an s13 that came stock with a KA24DE. i'm not sure if there are any differences/issues with trying this with stock s14 lines. and obviously a single-cam KA s13 will have different lines since it came with a very different p/s setup.

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Dorifto Machine

jaysgottaredtop

^ exactly. you either need an SR tensioner or a homemade tensioner. the KA tensioner definitely will not work.

but this thread is specifying that the KA p/s pulley lines up perfectly with the SR crank pulley IF you flip the KA p/s pulley and mount it backwards. everyone seems to think you MUST have an SR p/s pulley, but it turns out you don't.

also important to note: i'm pretty sure the stock SR p/s pulley has a smaller diameter than the KA p/s pulley. by using the KA p/s pulley on your SR, you'll effectively be underdriving your pump a bit. not a big deal, especially if you're revving it high on a regular basis. less load on the engine and fewer cavitation worries to name a couple pluses. a bit more driver input might be needed, but nothing compared to a de-powered setup.

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Dorifto Machine

Sure, figured Id include the link in here just incase because we already came to the conclusion that a KA pulley can be used and verified multiple people have it that way .

Honestly, I didnt use the KA pulley that way because a couple of my friends ran it with the KA Pulley and their belts life did not last long / popped multiple times in a year even after making sure its not over tightened and not too loose . Then again I know some people who run it like that and havent had problems.

Punished

I did not have an sr tensioner, but I had the bracket. So I just put a bolt and lock washer with a nut on the back side and used a large crowbar to pull the pump up and set my tension. Then tightened down the bolt on the tension bracket and the top bolt forward facing bolt mounting the pump to the bracket.

This has held up fine with plenty of hard driving, just need two people to set the tension. One to pull the crowbar, the other to tighten down the bolts.

jr_ss

FYI, you don't need to swap pulleys. Running a one less rib belt works just fine...

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My SR20VET

jaysgottaredtop

^ you just repeated what i already said in the original post...? lol

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jr_ss

Probably, but this whole post is a repeat from several years and posts past. This was done back in 06'-07', however nice write-up.

Edit- you don't have to flip the KA pulley either... Fits just fine.

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My SR20VET

jaysgottaredtop

^ also a good idea. glad to hear it doesn't loosen or break.

not even close. when i tried to mount it up on mine, the KA pulley has "negative offset" (so to speak) such that it sticks out from the pump splines. flipping the KA pulley allows it to mount closer to the pump (like "positive offset") and line up with the SR crank pulley.

trust me, i tried, lol. hence why i took pictures and made this thread, to inform everyone else.

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jr_ss

Hmm, I never flipped mine and it was run for 3-4years like that, never had an issue. Perhaps the S14 SR mount is different than that of the S13 SR...

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My SR20VET

jaysgottaredtop

^ that very well could be the case. again, my write-up was specific to the redtop SR and twin-cam KA. i dunno about s14/s15 SRs or single-cam stuff.

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