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Old 07-25-2011, 07:29 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pandaroo View Post
you said when you turn it over it makes potato gun noises which leads me to believe that your timing chain had a big jump and the valves opening at completely the wrong time.
I was fucking with the spark plugs in the wrong order, now that they are in proper order, im simply back to me original running rough problem, the car runs, just not well. It runs fine for the first 6 seconds, then goes tits over kettle.
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Old 07-25-2011, 07:30 PM   #32
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Originally Posted by !Zar! View Post
20 240's?

Why the fuck...


Oh wait, I just noticed.
I sincerely lol'd very very fucking hard.
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Old 07-26-2011, 03:11 PM   #33
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I checked my ecu for error codes, its the first time ive ever done it.

I fucked it up somehow and didnt count the first time and now I just get the 55 code, Ive even cranked it up until it dies. someone give me a how to tutorial and maybe get this some help.

It will idle vicariously around 500 rpms until I give it gas, at that point it bogs out. itll surge and run on its own though.

this sound like a maf?
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Old 07-26-2011, 03:30 PM   #34
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alright.

I have a small leak from my valve cover that Im about to handle. BUT I unplugged maf and it got worse and nearly stalled, so I dont think thats the issue. ideas?
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Old 07-26-2011, 04:05 PM   #35
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unplugged 3 spark plug wire, no change. smells like gas a little too. all new SP's, this mean its a wire? or maybe a rotor?
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Old 07-26-2011, 04:49 PM   #36
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are your spark plugs getting spark?

do you know how to test em?


Get your car idling,

take the 1st plug cap/wire off the spark plug, hold it close to the valve cover, right up against it, and you should see the spark jumping between the end of the wire and the valve cover.

put wire back on plug.

do this to all of them.
they should all create spark.

If some of them dont, you arent getting spark to those spark plugs and it would be an old cap and rotor, or crap wires.

replace cap and rotor first, since they are cheapest.


air leaks in the intake can totally screw everyhting up too, so fix that up.
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Old 07-26-2011, 07:08 PM   #37
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Alright. Spark plug wires have been tested and all make spark. all evenly as well. Not that. but note that the back two spark plug wires being pulled makes the motor run better. flooding? I noticed that it looks like the injectors are paired off on the rail, so maybe one or even both of the back injectors on that rail are fucked? hmm. Ill have to try pulling the injectors to see whats going on, im running out of things to check, anyone?
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Old 07-27-2011, 08:20 AM   #38
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Im on the verge of calling this the beginning of my LM7 swap. how much would I get for a KA and two trannys at a junkyard or scrap yard?
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Old 07-28-2011, 11:50 PM   #39
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so did you change the fuel injector like i forementioned? same shit happened to mine... since everything is getting spark it leads me to believe its the 3rd fuel injector...
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Old 08-07-2011, 11:29 AM   #40
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its been a week or two since ive been near a computer, so im bumping this back up with an update.

It hasnt been cranked for a few weeks obviously, I cranked it up and the first time it ran perfect, until I hit the throttle and it bogged out and started shaking again at low RPMS.

I kept playing with the injector wires, like unplugging them one at a time, the third or fourth one would make it run horrid when unplugged, but then I plugged it back in and it ran a little bit higher in rpms than normal idle, but was solid, no shakes, then returned back to earlier problems.

throwing codes 34 and 12.

Help me before I burn this bitch down.
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Old 08-07-2011, 01:38 PM   #41
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34 is the knock sensor code, and 12 is a mass air flow sensor code. That explains your shitty idle and inability to rev the car properly. I'm willing to bet your car is acting up simply because it doesn't want to be a drift car. Think hunger strike.
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Old 08-07-2011, 01:43 PM   #42
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lmao, this is plausible, so what seems to be my problem? mAF?
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