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Old 09-16-2004, 02:03 PM   #1
Jeff240sx
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Sr20det FAQ

Start it. I will delete unnecessary and off topic posts.
This thread should be something along the lines of how hard is the swap, what's required. Power level stages, build ups, cost tally, and power levels. Warnings and things to watch out for during swap, mods.
I figure this will save alot of heartache as noobs can read this thread and not post stupid questions.
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Old 09-16-2004, 02:35 PM   #2
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Heavy Throttle's SR Swap Guide (best I've seen so far)
this has harness wiring, power steering issues, and troubleshooting sections as well as other very important parts about various other modifications like boost gauges and front mount intercoolers
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Old 09-16-2004, 05:32 PM   #3
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heres a few basics...

stock boost IS 11lb's
boost w/o solenoid 7lb.
do not boost stock s13 t25 over 14lb. it's useless.
12's are possible on stock turbo
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338whp

1.55 60'
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Old 09-17-2004, 02:03 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vanquish2
heres a few basics...
boost w/o solenoid 11lb.
Explain. I don't get what you mean by that.

REPLACEMENT PARTS (S13 SR20DET RED/BLACK TOP ONLY, UNLESS NOTED):
Oil filter (S13 SR20DET)
15208-53J00
91-94 Sentra SE-R

(S14SR20DET)
95 Sentra SE-R

Fuel Filter
16400-00002
1990-1996 300ZX TT

Upper injector o-ring
16618-53J00
7/95 and newer 300ZX TT (small/upper)

Lower injector o-ring
16618-10V05
7/95 and newer 300ZX TT (big/lower)

o2 sensor
S13 SR20DET REDTOP: 22690-19P20 ('87 280ZX)
S13 SR20DET BLACKTOP: 95 300ZX TT

Exhaust Manifold Gasket
91-94 Sentra SE-R

4 Hole Turbo Manifold gasket / 5 Hole Turbo Extension Gasket
91-96 300ZX TT (Z32)

Fuel Injectors
91-96 Z32 300ZX TT (purple plugs; 370cc)

MAF
89-90 240SX

Timing Chain Kit
91 B13 Sentra SE-R

Belts (PS, AC, alt)
Gates K050370 Alt.
K040345 PS & most AC

Spark Plugs
91 Sentra SE-R

Water Pump
JDM SR20DET Only

Head Gasket
JDM SR20DET Only

IACV Gasket
JDM SR20DET Only

Engine Coolant Temp. Sensor:
'91-94 B13 Sentra SE-R

Throttle Position Sensor:
22620-53J00 ('91-'94 B13 Sentra SE-R)

That's all I can think of.

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Old 09-17-2004, 10:01 AM   #5
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S14 SR20DET Nissan part numbers:

oil filter 15208-65F00
front crank seal 13510-53J10
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Old 09-17-2004, 01:03 PM   #6
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Water Temperature Sensor
Sentra - Goes according to what year your SR is.
Differences are in 91-94 and 95-98
Sentra: 91-94 have a rectangleish plug while 95-98 have a slightly slimmer, more box looking plug.
Redtop and midyear S13 blacktops use a z32 sensor. I believe you should go by year as well if buying a Z32 sensor.
Late S13 blacktops use the Sentra sensor.
KA water temp sensor doesn't work, or at least it didn't for me. (S13 98 Blacktop)

S15 Exhaust Manifold Gasket
(S15 metal gasket vs. stock paper gasket)
Nissan Part #: 14036-75F00
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Old 09-19-2004, 03:32 PM   #7
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The 11lbs without a solenoid thing for who wanted it explained. There is a solinoid that actuates the wastegate, but to my understanding doesn't come with the SR motorsets, because it's mounted elsewhere in the engine bay. So you'd have to get one, use a boost controller, or run the vaccum hose from the nipple on the intercooler directly to the wastegate, bypassing the valve function. Without this solenoid it should run 11lbs.
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Old 09-19-2004, 04:06 PM   #8
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for those of you who have done you own wiring of harnesses, I have a couple of questions because I dont want to fry my electronics and have to work even more for more money,

since HT is down I cant use that right now, I foudn a way to go there but pics dont work,

wehn I splice the connectors inside the car, I cut the white one off the sr, and splice the brown one from the ka, right? this is confusing me so much because there is also a white connector on the ka, and it is the same exact connector on the sr harness, that I cut, only the wires dont match, but the wires on the brown one do.

2. the old ground wire from the battery has it grounded to the intake manifold and to the chassis, my wire is falling apart so i want to put another one i have on, can I go just directly from the battery to the intake manifold or do i also need it grounded to the chassis,

3. the ground wire that comes from the ignitor, does this ground to the chassis,


ok I know your probably sick of my questions and so am I, this is probably all the wiring questions I will have, and I know alot of people here have done their own wiring so it shouldnt be too hard to answer right? thanks for any help though.
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Old 09-19-2004, 04:24 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blitz180
The 11lbs without a solenoid thing for who wanted it explained. There is a solinoid that actuates the wastegate, but to my understanding doesn't come with the SR motorsets, because it's mounted elsewhere in the engine bay. So you'd have to get one, use a boost controller, or run the vaccum hose from the nipple on the intercooler directly to the wastegate, bypassing the valve function. Without this solenoid it should run 11lbs.
No its still 7psi. Think about it: A valve that restricts air to the wastegate can only raise the boost not lower it. So if the stock wastegate was really set to 11psi, theres no way a solenoid would bring it down to 7psi. The purpose of the solenoid is slightly faster spool up, by preventing the wastegate from opening part way at lower boost.
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Old 09-19-2004, 11:52 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DuffMan
No its still 7psi. Think about it: A valve that restricts air to the wastegate can only raise the boost not lower it. So if the stock wastegate was really set to 11psi, theres no way a solenoid would bring it down to 7psi. The purpose of the solenoid is slightly faster spool up, by preventing the wastegate from opening part way at lower boost.
Bingo, you win.

That's exactly why I asked him what he talking about... didn't make any sense at all.

Pepperoni: Can you be a bit more specific on the water temp sensor interchangeablility? Not only for the FAQ, but also for myself... I think I may need one and I can't figure out which one I need from your post (Z32? It's for a redtop :P)

Also does anyone know about fpr interchange? Seems like the KA one would fit, just that the nipple for the vac line is on a different side...
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Old 09-20-2004, 06:18 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vanquish2
correct me if I'm wrong, but if you were to have no vac on your wastegate....is would open at 11psi for safety reasons right?
No lines going to the wastegate would mean that the turbo isn't regulated, and would run to 15-18psi, wherever the turbo stops spooling at on an SR. It would go way out of efficiency and cause detrimental damage.
-Jeff
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Old 09-21-2004, 12:50 AM   #12
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TPS and/or Temp. Sensor interchange, anyone? let's not hijack this.

- this is general for 89-98 Nissan but most apply to the SR20 motor.
- to set car into diag. mode, with the key in the "ON" position, turn potentometer screw on ECU fully clockwise, then turn it fully counterclockwise. The LED on the ECU will begin to flash.
- first digit = LONG blink; second digit = SHORT blink (ex: 1... 1... 1... 1... then 1-1-1 equals 43 = TPS)

Error Codes Biatch
11 Crank Angle Sensor/Camshaft Position Sensor.
12 Air Flow Meter/Mass Air Flow Sensor.
13 Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor.
14 Vehicle Speed Sensor.
21 Ignition Signal.
22 Fuel Pump.
23 Idle Switch.
24 Throttle Valve Switch.
25 Idle Speed Control Valve.
28 Cooling Fan Circuit.
31 ECM.
32 EGR Function.
33 Heated Oxygen Sensor.
34 Knock Sensor.
35 Exhaust Gas Temperature Sensor.
36 EGR Control-Back Pressure Transducer.
37 Knock Sensor.
38 Right hand bank Closed Loop (B2).
41 Intake Air Temperature Sensor.
42 Fuel Temperature Sensor.
43 Throttle Position Sensor.
45 Injector Leak.
47 Crankshaft Position Sensor.
51 Injector Circuit.
53 Oxygen Sensor.
54 A/T Control.
55 No Malfunction.
63 No. 6 Cylinder Misfire.
64 No. 5 Cylinder Misfire.
65 No. 4 Cylinder Misfire.
66 No. 3 Cylinder Misfire.
67 No. 2 Cylinder Misfire.
68 No. 1 Cylinder Misfire.
71 Random Misfire.
72 TWC Function right hand bank.
73 TWC Function right hand bank.
76 Fuel Injection System Function right hand bank.
77 Rear Heated Oxygen Sensor Circuit.
82 Crankshaft Position Sensor.
84 A/T Diagnosis Communication Line.
85 VTC Solenoid Valve Circuit.
86 Fuel Injection System Function right hand bank.
87 Canister Control Solenoid Valve Circuit.
91 Front Heated Oxygen Sensor Heater Circuit right hand bank.
94 TCC Solenoid Valve.
95 Crankshaft Position Sensor.
98 Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor.
101 Front Heated Oxygen Sensor Heater Circuit right hand bank.
103 Park/Neutral Position Switch Circuit.
105 EGR and EGR Canister Control Solenoid Valve Circuit.
108 Canister Purge Control Valve Circuit.
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Old 09-21-2004, 04:25 PM   #13
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ok...my official correction of my previous statement. After checking the lines more closely and doing more research...hooking the line from the wastegate to tb will get you 7lb. hooking the wastegate to the solenoid then to tb does what has been said....it actually restricts the airflow and brings you to 11lb....no vac on wastegate does indeed give infinite boost (not good)....thank you guys for questioning me and helping me learn and not treating me like a dumbass...you guys are awesome....yet again proves....this is a great board! Keep up the good work!
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Old 09-21-2004, 09:29 PM   #14
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Oops, sorry kazuo, didn't keep up with the thead.
Water Temperature Sensor (cont..)
I know for sure the sentra one works because thats the one I used for my S13 blacktop. Since i have a 1998 blacktop, i used a 1998 Sentra temp. sensor. Im not sure if redtops and blacktops are the same when it comes to temp sensors, but you can try out a sentra one. According to a friend online, he said he used a Z32 sensor for his redtop; and it goes with year as well, like i did with the sentra sensor. So, you should be able to use a Z32 '91 temp sensor for your redtop. KA's may be the same for redtops, but thats only a guess; KA was different for mine. I can only assure you about Sentra sensor for S13 blacktops.
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Old 09-21-2004, 11:47 PM   #15
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For the water temp sensor, atleast for my S14, have to use the stock KA sensor off my 97 KA. I forgot bout this and my temp was pegged at H for awhile till i talked to Phase2 and they told me to swap out the sensor off my KA.
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Old 09-24-2004, 04:20 AM   #16
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S13 SR into S14: http://camel-towing.com/docs/S13%20S...into%20S14.htm
SR20DET Technical Info: http://sr20det.nismo.org/srtech.htm
Intercooler pressure testing: http://www.vfaq.com/mods/ICtester.html
Lots of MISC crap: http://www.sr20tuning.com/modifications.html
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Old 09-24-2004, 06:21 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nrg
that wiring harness link will probably save me alot of time, why pay someone 200 and wait 3 weeks when you can do it yourself =]
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Old 09-27-2004, 04:07 AM   #18
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S14 SR into S14
http://forums.freshalloy.com/ubbthre...b=5&o=&fpart=1

I saved all the pictures from the scan but I don't have a host for it yet. I will post pictures of them once I host them.
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Old 09-28-2004, 11:22 AM   #19
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For Canadian owners, we did not get the 91 Sentra SE-R.

When you go to get parts (IE oil filter, plugs, etc) ask for 91 Nissan NX2000
It has the same sr20de.
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Old 10-05-2004, 10:29 AM   #20
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E5 is from a 94-96 180sx black top 5 speed
E6 is from a 94-96 180sx blacktop automatic
WC is from a 94-98 S14 Silvia
62 is from a 91-93 180sx or S13 Silvia 5 speed
61,63 is from a 91-93 180sx or S13 Silvia automatic
J4 is from a 97-98 180sx Type X 5speed

looks like i got the wrong ECU with my motor. i got a red text ECU with #60. what car is that for?.
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Old 10-05-2004, 01:41 PM   #21
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Nissan Part Numbers:

Connecting Rod Bearing: 12111-1N500
Crankshaft Bearing: 12207-60J00
Front main seal: 13510-53J00
Rear Main seal: 12279-0M300
Piston Ring set: 12033-53J10
Exhaust Manifold Gasket (S13): 14036-53J10
Exhaust Manifold Stud: 14065-75F00
Intake Manifold Gasket (S14): 14035-5U000
Intake Manifold Gasket (S13): 14035-53J00
Oil Strainer Gasket: 15053-1E400
Intake Valve: 13201-1E711
Exhaust Valve (Not found at Nissan): 13202-53J01
Shim: 13229-53J00
Tensionner Gasket: 13079-2J200
Intake Valve Seal: 13207-84A00
Exhaust Valve Seal: 13207-53F00
Intake/Exhaust Valve Seats: 13205-53J00
Valve cover gasket (S13): 13270-52F00
Spark Plug Well Gasket: 13271-52F00

PS: This post should be nominated for post of the year.
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Old 10-06-2004, 05:06 AM   #22
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ECU Error Code 34

(This faq is for an sr20det, sr20de, ka24de, ka24e?)

If you receive ECU Error code 34, it means one of two things:

a) Bad Knock Sensor
b) Bad connection to knock sensor

Like many things, Knock Sensors can just "Go Bad". First, look for the grey conector between the 3rd and 4th intake runners, there may be two, the bigger one is the o2 sensor, the smaller one is the knock sensor. Unplug the knock sensor connector and check the wiring, likewise, follow the wiring down to under the intake manifold and feel that the wiring hasn't fallen out. Either way you're going to have to remove the knock sensor to thoroughly check. My knock sensor on my sr20det was held on by one 12mm bolt, to remove it i just reached down under the intake manifold and unbolted it, it was agonizing but it worked and i replaced the whole thing in 15 minutes. Other people would normally go from under the car and remove the starter to get to it, or remove the intake manifold. This is not compeletely necessary, but smaller hands do help. When you get the old knock sensor off look for these things:

a) Discoloration of the copper side (means its toast)
b) Frayed wires
c) any cracks in the knock sensor
d) Plug is damaged
e) not receiving enough electricity

If you see wiring problems then i suggest you fix them, plug the knock sensor back in, bolt it up, reset ECU, drive the car, and see if the error comes up again. Otherwise just replace the little demon. If you have an sr20det then go to Nissan or Napa and get the knock sensor off a 1991 Nissan Sentra SER (Sr20de), If you have a CA18det then get it off a Pulsar, KA's should be selft explanatory because they are american made. Knock sensors are not cheap, mine was $118.00 it sucks, but live with it.

Once you have the new knock sensor, replace the old one, double check wiring, bolt it back up, and reset ECU, drive car around, check ecu, if its not fixed then you have wiring issues most likely, that i can't help you with but there are ways to check the electrical charge.

Good Luck
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Old 10-06-2004, 11:55 AM   #23
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as far as the coolant temp sensor....same part numbers from napa, autozone, and pepboys....91-93 sentra ser and 91-95 300z tt are both ECH TS5520 (from napa)...
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Old 10-29-2004, 11:25 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by racinG20t
is there a difference in the Z32 MAFS (between TT and N/A)??? which is right???
No difference.
-Jeff
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Old 10-30-2004, 02:59 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff240sx
No lines going to the wastegate would mean that the turbo isn't regulated, and would run to 15-18psi, wherever the turbo stops spooling at on an SR. It would go way out of efficiency and cause detrimental damage.
-Jeff

I got my turbo to hit 20-23 pounds a few times that way.
(trying to blow the motor)
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Old 10-30-2004, 03:10 AM   #26
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Sr blocks are alum, with steel sleeves.

Sr intake manifolds vary. S13 has a long runner manifold, and s14 has a short runner. You can tell the diff, because the s13 manifold has the throttle body under the manifold, and s14 has it about even with the height of the valve cover.

Sr blocks use the upper oil pan for block reinforcement.

Sr20det motors really need an oil cooler. (track)

Oil Filter: Pull off the intake manifold support brackets under the manifold, or you will wish you never had to change your oil again.

sr20 motors dont like ka fuel filters (z32)

Dont raise the boost unless you have an aftermarket fuel pump.

Sr20det trannys are weak.

S15 trannys are even weaker.

Keep your ignitor away from heat (exhaust manifold)

When setting ignition timing with a light, timing marks on crank pully may not be accurate unless you zero the cas (cam angle sensor).

Invest in rocker arm stoppers.

T25 turbos suck.

You better do a good job rerouting the coolant line behind the head for the turbo. Because changing it while the motors in sucks.

ehh.
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Old 11-10-2004, 09:20 PM   #27
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Sr trannys suck. Why do you think all the pro drifters use os giken gear sets. I have blown 2 trannys in half a season. Ernie fixmer blew 2 at just one formula d event.
Trannys are fine but gear sets are weak
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Old 12-16-2004, 03:00 PM   #28
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SRs are so oil dependent it's not even funny. If you can do anything to help the motor get more oil efficiently, hold more oil, cool it down, do it.
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Old 02-10-2005, 09:59 AM   #29
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redtop into 97

I'm pretty sure I have everything done so far for the swap. I'm swapping in a 89-91 early year redtop into my 97 240sx. First I swapped the Smaller black plug on my KA water temp sensor onto my sr water temp sensor. Then I swapped the 97 KA tranny speed sensor(with the red gear at the end) onto my sr20det tranny. A guy that lives near me who did the swap onto his s13 said that theres no need ot swap the sensors. As long as the sr speed sensor has a red gear at the end, it should work? Actually, he didnt even swap the temp sensor as well. could this be a redtop to s13 deal? My entire harness is done. Got the z32 fuel filter. There anything else I needa change? Thanks.

-David
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Old 02-20-2005, 09:59 AM   #30
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Stop posting up stupid questions in the FAQ. It's for answering questions (the A and the Q), not asking. Make threads for that.
If I have to prune more posts from this FAQ, I'm going to lock it.
-Jeff
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