om3ga

I was wondering what the torque specs were on the S13 SR Flywheel bolts. Also is it recommended to put thread locker on them?

I have searched and found different answers i need the TRUTH lol

s14unimog

I'm assuming the 8 inner bolts that affix the flywheel to the crankshaft...

127-137 Nm / 13.0-14.0 kg-m / 94 -101 ft-lb

and no, the FSM does not insist you use thread lock.

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om3ga

Awesome you wouldnt believe the amount of people who have said that they torqued them to 61-69 ft lbs and then also said that some of the bolts vibrated loose causing major damage. I looked at an fsm and it says that the 61-69 is for the AT setup.. Why would anybody torque to those specs?

flip3d

I went with 95 ft-lbs on mine because my torque wrench only goes up to 100 and I didn't want to break it :P

Torque in steps. I don't think the FSM says anything about it but do it anyway.

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Om1kron

I didn't torque mine down properly after installing everything, and only a few test drives later and tons of diagnosis to the car to determine what that chatter noise was.

i dropped the transmission after the car wouldn't go into gear anymore after idling.

I used loctite red this time around and bought a brand new tq wrench and all new flywheel bolts which is recommended when you remove them because they stretch.

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om3ga

Damn thats crazy, I bought all new flywheel bolts also, im not sure if i want to use loc tite on them or not though, do you think just the new bolts would be good enough or should i use loctite on them too? Im going to be running a Fidanza flywheel whether that makes a difference or not lol.

fliprayzin240sx

Fuck it, if you have locktite, why the fuck not use it. Biggest thing is make sure you step torque them. Torque all the bolts down to 30-60-then whatever you decide to torque it down to between 94-101 ft/lbs.

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wangan_cruiser

i posted it on the sr faq what the torque spec per fsm

i think it is 94-101 ft lbs.

and yes just use a threadlocker just to be more safe



i just made a rule for myself



any bolt that prone to any vibration that can come out. ill use a thread lock


not a very good experience.

om3ga

Ok sounds good, but what color threadlocker would be good for those bolts? I want to be able to get the flywheel off later if the rear seal goes out haha.

wangan_cruiser

just use the red one.


even though its gonna be hard to loosen up but you are for sure that those bolts wont come off LOL.

om3ga

haha how will i be able to get them off? Isnt blue good enough haha. Im going to be torquing them to 100 ft lbs for sure.

Om1kron

pop em with an air gun...

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s14unimog

people.... WTF; why are you thinking about this. A multi-billion dollar corporation funded research to build a reliable automobile. They also funded the production of a thing called a Factory Service Manual for that particular vehicle. I posted the information provided from this literature. I'm sure its fine without the Thread locker. You can find other hardware in the FSM that discusses the use of a thread locker; so we can rule out the idea that, "maybe they forgot to mention that." Install the bolts and torque them to spec; done.

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Om1kron

make sure to apply some vagasil to your pussy... the fsm does not tell you that when you put solid poly mounts on your car a LOT of the bolts you tq'ed to spec are liable to back out.

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om3ga

True i do have cusco mounts lol and let me just say torquing all of the bolts on the car every 2 weeks is just general maintenance for me lol. I check all the suspension parts and inspect everything every 2 weeks usually.

wangan_cruiser

i agree with the "multi-billion company" part. but dont forget this "multi-billion company" do make errors building automobiles.




thank you. any bolt that is exposed to vibration it has chances of coming out.

Homer_Simpson

I torqued mine down to the FSM spec without thread-locker and so far so good with the daily beating. No bolts backing out yet.

om3ga

Hmm yeah i guess the threadlocker would just be extra security for sure. Id rather them not get loose haha, but what about the crank pulley bolt? Should that have threadlocker on it as well?

s14unimog

I'm sure there is a reason why they didn't use thread lock (heat cycles, thread type, material differences, etc...). Either way, carve your own path; Nissan is so stupid anyways....


I've installed 6 clutch and flywheel assemblies, that I can accurately recall. Some with solid mounts, some with Nismo mounts, and some with factory mounts (although I haven't done them on a car with Cusco mounts...they may be the exception ) None of which have I ever used thread lock on the flywheel bolts. No issues to report.

Fuck it...tighter the better too; why not go for 200ft-lbs. It
s tighter so it must be better

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wangan_cruiser

torquing it down more than it is recommended most likely will get it stripped or broke off. LOL



to the op. do whatever u feel like but we are just here to give u advice.


enough of this argument which just goes no where.

Om1kron

exactly someone posted on here they tried to crank the engine while a tq wrench was on the crank nut, and they stripped the crank nut hole, so now they need to disassemble the whole engine to re-machine and balance the crank.

an expensive mistake, which also will net the same results on the clutch end side. I would like the extra security of the thread locker because I do not posess a lift and I am a pretty strong fellow, but I can tell you installing a nissan transmission on a car on solid mounts which also raise the engine 1/2 inches higher than stock sucks fucking ass.

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om3ga

I guess there cant be any bad affects from doing the threadlocker on them. I mean they will have to come off either way its not like they are welded in there lol i think a impact gun or a breaker bar should do the trick.