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| Tech Talk Technical Discussion About The Nissan 240SX and Nissan Z Cars |
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#1 |
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Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Florida
Age: 36
Posts: 34
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KA problem
ok so let me first start off by saying thx for the help, and second i have already replaced the distributer cap and button, spark plugs, checked the coil and spark plug wires for resistence.
and now the problem i am having is the car is jumping and hopping when i come to a stop and when i am moving at about 5 mph, it has no power at all, almost like it is running off 3 cylinders, how can i fix this and what in the hell is wrong???
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#2 |
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Zilvia Junkie
![]() Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Santa Ana, CA
Age: 34
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Check the injectors, same thing happened to me out of nowhere.
I had mine "working" but one really wasn't. Get an Ohm Meter and check if any of them are open, (Broken)
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#5 |
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Zilvia Junkie
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Location: Santa Ana, CA
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Set it at 200K i forget the resistance, sorry, but you put the points on the injector, where the harness clips on to. On the metal tabs. You should get a reading if it works, if not... gotta get a new one.
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#7 |
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Zilvia Junkie
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Location: Santa Ana, CA
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If the idle is low, it might be the misfire.
I don't know about timing, it doesn't change unless the chain jumped.
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#9 |
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Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Florida
Age: 36
Posts: 34
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well if the belt jumped the car probably wouldnt even be drivable... but right the now the car is still drivable its just running really rough, like i am having to kinda give the car alot of gas everywhere i go bec it has no power, its acting like it has 80 hp or something. and its sputtering non stop, but when i stop the car doesnt try to die but instead it shakes the whole car like crazy. its a 93 se and the motor only has 50k original miles on it, not driven hard either.
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#17 |
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Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Florida
Age: 36
Posts: 34
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alright so the problem pretty much seems like one of the cyclinders is not firing..... so how would i fix that having already replaced the distributer cap and button, spark plugs and having checked the coil and spark plug wires for resistence.
i know i need to check the injectors but is there anything else that i need to check tomorrow morning, or should that be the only thing left that is doing this?
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#18 | |
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Nissanaholic!
![]() Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Moorhead, MN
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Quote:
Timing is probably not your problem because it wont change at idle unless you screw with it or the ECU is telling it to. Injectors that I have had have a OHM rating right around IIRC 11.5. If they don't get a reaing that means there is a brake in the circuit. Even if they ohm out good, they can be bad. I had an injector I had to take out and put in a flow bench to know it was actually bad. Try swapping in a different MAF from a car running good. Your problem sounds to me like a injector issue or a MAF. Leaning more towards the MAF because of it happening at idle.
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#19 |
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Zilvia FREAK!
![]() Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Metro Detroit
Age: 32
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Check to see if your ecu is throwing any codes first! The numbers of blinks the light does is listed in the respective fsm which you can find links to here:
http://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/Nissan_...ation/weblinks or on the 240sx bible 2 thread (if that link is disallowed) |
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#20 |
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Premium Member
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thats was just my 2 cents his problem sounded like mines so i gave him my suggestion! forgot to ask what kinda motor is it DUAL or single? word .. also it could be the MAF or ur injectors try using a MAF cleaner..
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#23 |
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Zilvia Junkie
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you can check to see if the problem lies in spark by pulling out one plug wire at a time. if there is a change when you pull it out, then it is working, if not, then you got some work to do. if there is drastic changes within all cylinders then you can prob check what the others have mentioned, maf, timing, etc...
one more thing, you said you have replaced the distributor, did you mark it and put it back in the way it was? if not i would suggest busting out the timing light. |
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#24 |
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Nissanaholic!
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O, I missed that. If you had the distributer out..... Start buy getting the motor properly timed. That can cause major issues if it is off far enough.
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#25 |
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Zilvia Member
![]() Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: SoCal~Long Beach/Carson~
Posts: 284
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check your MAF and if thats not it check the codes. If you think its your cynlinders do a leakdown and compression test but i highly doubt thats the problem since you only have 50K original miles. do the other first and report back with the results.
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#26 |
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Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Florida
Age: 36
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alright so one of my injectors is not getting an ohm reading and the rest are getting 11.0-11.1, so anyone wanna give me a rundown on changing an injector, it looks fairly easy but is there anything that i need to know??? i see there is 2 screws at the top of a metal case is that the only thing there is to get it out???
also the cheapest injector i could find was $100 for one of em' at autozone anyone know where to get one any cheaper???
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#27 |
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Zilvia Member
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Location: SoCal~Long Beach/Carson~
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junkyard should have some you could probably pocket. do that first and see if that works first before spending more money.
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#29 |
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Zilvia Junkie
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Location: Santa Ana, CA
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You can get them off a pick up also with a KA also, so if you look for both vehicles, you can luck out. Be sure to get two small flat head screwdrivers
to pop out the injectors off the rail, junckyard charges up the ass for the whole fuel rail.
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