EsChassisLove

Standard S3s are 11.2 lift. S3HLs should be in the 12 lift range. Not a dinky 11.5.

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codyace

S3 = 11.2 / 0.442 lift

S3HL = 11.6 / 0.457 lift

Remember the S3 cams are all stock valvetrain to 8000 rpm safe.

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EsChassisLove

The entire S series is safe for stock valve train.

12.5 would be fine for stock haha

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S14DB

Then go get some C3's

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derass

Cody, you've convinced me that JWT is the way to go. Namely, the fact that it is more cost effective to use S3/S4 vs Procams / HKS Step 2 and springs

I don't think there is a single dyno result in here of someone using S4's on a DET. However the SCC article posted in the teen pages of this thread are pretty convincing, minimal midrange loss with more top end.

I must still decide between S3HL, S4 or S4HL, but at this point, I am leaning towards S3HL, the page before shows a 40 WHP gain with those! The motor is used for drifting and spends more time at redline than conventional road racing, where an upshift would occur. If the powerband is limited to 6500-7000, then there is less of a chance of throwing a rocker.

My setup:

S13 SR20DET
GT2871R .64 52 Trim
Haltech PS1000
555cc Injectors

323 WHP @ 15 PSI on Dyno Dynanamics

Looking to do Cams, Intake Manifold, 740cc Injectors and 20 PSI next to get around 400whp.

gotta240

Whats the difference in a low boost vs high boost tune? Shouldn't a high boost tune be just fine for daily driving as long as the injectors/turbo, etc are the same?

zombiewolf513

Screw the intake manifold you wont need it for 400whp on that setup, use that money for the retune and gas

zombiewolf513

Sorry for double post, but i think the only difference is boost control settings. Youre trims and timing are going to be different for corresponding boost levels, so if you have a tune for say 22psi you should be able to run 8psi through the whole power band if you wanted to (asuming you didnt change the turbo or other engine components). I daily a 22psi tune with no hi/low switch. Of course my engine is built for it, but most of the time i dont even pop out of vacuum unless i need to pass someone or im drifting. I honestly dont see a point in having two settings if you have a solid tune and ability to control your throttle. I know i tend to accidently or incidently post misinformation sometimes so someone correct me if im wrong.

Q.Smooth127

you pretty correct. I mean if we both wrong, then i sorry too lol.

i daily'd my all stock internal SR (other then ARP studs and an apexi HG... which really isnt much of an internal mod anyway) on 18lbs wit my gt2871r + z32 maf setup, and on a daily communte, i barely ever pounded on it unless i was late for work or something. And the SR is still holdin strong from over 2 years since i tuned it. Just regular driving and occasional spirited driving.

A good tune and that shit will be fine. The only time i could see not dailyin on high ass boost is if you drive like an idiot and redline it everytime you in the car for like a year everyday lol. Its just using common sense you know?

BlackZenkiS14

Ok, so I'm going to go look at a GT2871R tonight that a buddy is selling, he thinks it might need a rebuild, but that seems strange because it can't have too many miles on it. And he says it has a bit of shaft play. Now being a ball bearing turbo, I know these inherently have a little bit of play, but how much is too much? And in/out or up/down?

He's only asking 300 for it total, so it could be a crazy good deal! Lol

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Tom N

Keep in mind rebuilding a BB turbo is not like a journal bearing turbo. Most people just replace the chra.

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98 240sx w/ S15 SR20DET, T2 20g, 11.22 @ 124.98

Corbic

Which will cost you $600-800.

To my knowledge if the bearings are bad, thats your only option.

Tom N

It's your only sensible option. I know there are people out there that will attempt BB rebuilds. But they seldom last very long. It's a waste of money IMO. Just get a new chra.

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98 240sx w/ S15 SR20DET, T2 20g, 11.22 @ 124.98

BlackZenkiS14

Yea exactly, I knew that, so I wasn't willing to buy it unless it wasn't actually blown. But I looked at it, bearings audibly sounded like garbage. plus, it was the .86 hot side, which I don't really care for. especially since I want the GTX2867, but figured if this was a good enough deal I could be in for it.

I bailed on it, gonna keep saving for that GTX...

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codyace

If you're going to be hanging out in the top end, I'd go with the S4HL's IMO.

Looking to do Cams, Intake Manifold, 740cc Injectors and 20 PSI next to get around 400whp.[/QUOTE]

There shouldn't be any difference unless high/low tunes involve race gas and then pump gas as timing/fueling would be different...but on a pump gas car that has been tuned properly it won't/shouldn't need two maps.


You would be hard pressed to make 400whp without an aftermarket intake manifold on the 2871/gtx2867 setup. The stock manifold (while sufficient) is not conducive to top end power production.

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S14DB

Yeah, if you have a complete tune and not just a WOT tune. The MAF or MAP has different values for the flow vs demand. The timing map should be different at 8psi @ 6k rpm vs 22psi @ 6K rpm. But if someone did a WOT tune at 22psi and just filled in bulk(trimed) values at high rpm for lower flow you could run into some problems. Would be advisable to have a tuner clean up the map running 8psi if you are going to run a boost switch.

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Tom N

Any experience with a extrude honed intake off a S14/15 SR20?

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98 240sx w/ S15 SR20DET, T2 20g, 11.22 @ 124.98

S14DB

On what? Won't fit on an S13.

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AsleepAltima

ive got one you can have for 200. has about 1500 miles on it. oil line kinked and starved the chra. i have video of it if youre interested.

BlackZenkiS14

Lol thanks man, but not interested at all. I don't want to spend the money rebuilding one.

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codyace

Get it rebuilt, buy another and then bring your new car down to us and lets get some air cooled twin action happening


Can't say I do, but the high port intakes are 'supposed' to make slightly better top end power...however for the cost of extrude honing a stocker, you can get a 'Freddy' for less and be fine. Just retap all the tappered thread holes or have a welder weld bungs on them and you'll be fine.

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S14DB

The value is in the housings. You drop a center section of your choosing in.

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AsleepAltima

how awesome would that be? lol

looking into these guys at the moment though...
Renegade Hybrids

AsleepAltima

yup. pure turbos is real close to where i live and dude said he can put whatever i want it for about 4-600 bucks, depending on which impellers i want.

conrad_s13.5

I might know a guy with a 2871r?.....lol

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cONtRol FReAkS

BlackZenkiS14

Yea, but I would still rather have the .64 ex housing, and it's like 1200 for a gtx1867 chra...

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-Kyle

sr20det_510

So I know this thread is about the gt2871r but what about the turbonetics, precision, and or like the tomei Gsp, Isis turbos? With the same specs? Or is this a stupid question if so sorry!!

inopsey

stupid question to ask in the garrett thread but from what i have seen there are several options (superior) for 400whp and full boost under 4k rpm vs the gt2871

sr20det_510

Sorry for the offense!! Thanks

Ka-t in progress

I'm running the precision 5128(.64) and I love it so far. Turbo pulls great and is very smooth. No mounting issues with the stock redtop mani if that is something you was curious about