SochBAT

Yes! For all you boostfiends that love SingleSlammers, the official KA-ET Writeup!

First things first, make sure you've got time, some cash, and a good compression engine.

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Basic specs of our KA24E SOHC 2.4liter:

Displacement: 146 cubic inches (2.4 L)
Bore: 3.50" (89 mm)
Stroke: 3.78" (96 mm)
Compression Ratio: 8.6:1 (also 9.1 in some engines)
Compression Pressure: 142-192 psi.

Horsepower @ RPM: 134 @ 5200
Torque lb*ft @ RPM: 154 @ 3600

Camshaft lobe lift: .388" (9.86 mm)
Intake valve dia: 1.34" (34 mm)
Exhaust valve dia: 1.58" (40 mm)
Valves: 12; 8 intake, 4 exhaust

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Basics needed for KA-ET:

Turbo Manifold
Intercooler
Higher flowing injectors
Oil fittings and lines
Turbo
Downpipe/Turbo Elbow
Blow off valve (when upping the boost)
Higher flowing fuel Pump
Boost gauge (im an idiot and forgot)

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SOHC Manifolds:
Gladman performance
Import Auto Performance
JGS Precision
RealNissan.com/Nizzx.com manifold
RevHard

Intercoolers:
Any will work. Once you go higher than 370s, piggyback/standalone is a MUST!!!

Injectors should be topfeed, unless replacing/upgrading to sidemount injectors.

Oil lines and fittings:
JGS Precision

Turbo: Generally, something pretty big for 2.4L
T25 (safe but small)
GT28RS
T2871
GT3071R
GT32
T3/4 Hybrid

Downpipes and Elbows:
Everyone makes em.

Blow off valves:
JGS
HKS
Tial
Greddy

Wastegates:
Tial
JGS Precision
Turbonetics
TurboSmart

Fuel pump:
Walbro 255

MAF: 300zx or Cobra MAF *edit*(good to 500hp)*edit*
Can anyone vouch for 700hp on a Cobra MAF?

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IIRC, you can achieve 300hp on stock internals, but thats pushing it. I'd personally boost up to 10-15psi on stock internals.

I forget what sparkplugs were recommended, but normally they should be regapped to .028-.03 *EDIT* Splitfire PLAT 3's or NGKs preferred *EDIT*

On stock boost, you don't need any standalone or piggyback, but once upping the boost, its a must.

Once you start boosting over 10psi, I suggest you start building internals or other support mods.

And being as our cars are SOHC KA-Es, there is a plethora of parts out in the market, albet hard to find, that would make your mouth water. Google things up. Heres a hint, REBELLO!!! And you can't forget the premier Nissan Tuner, Jim Wolf Technologies.
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Dynotuning is a must. Or you could try to ghettorig that, and find an open street/lot (but thats just being STUPID!!)

Feel free to add anything, being as this is a FAQ.

My personal build would allow me to reach approx. 240hp on stock boost. But no one is interested in my tweaked build. SINGLESLAMMERS, UNITE!!!

And feel free to IM me on AIM or use the PM system if you've got additional input on this.

SochBAT

Anyone have dynosheets for their KA-ET? I've got some saved, but can't post them up without owner's ok.

I call upon the Power of SEARCH!!!

http://www.zilvia.net/f/search.php?searchid=472435

Fat Felix

danng, nice socheat!

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megasonly.wordpress.com

Jeff240sx

Umm.. why don't you say what it's good to, and not be a total dickhole? That's like bitching about how messy your house is, while sitting on your ass and not cleaning it. Fuck you.

The cobra maf is good to around 500hp, and it's not really "good", it's jerry-rigged by JWT with a signal splitter, because wihtout it, it'll fail around 300hp. The splitter, however, gives the maf 1/2 the resolution of other mafs. Combine that with it's rediculous 3.5" inlet and 3" outlet cone-shape.. it's a crummy option. I have one, and I'm ditching it once my bikirom gets in.
-Jeff

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Whatup?

Jeff240sx

Can anyone vouch 700 on a cobra maf? Maybe a ford cobra, but there hasn't been a KA over 633. And there's been one KA over 500 with a JWT ecu, I think (t66240). I think he was running a z32 maf, which should be good to 500-550. We dont (at least I don't) really have solid numbers on that. But if you're reading an FAQ on turboing your car, you won't need to worry about what maf to hit 500hp with.

You lumped intercoolers and injectors in the same line. Confusing.
Once you upgrade injectors, you need to control them, with either JWT ecu, piggyback, standalone, or bikirom makes a eeprom for $80 or so for sohc.

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Whatup?

NemeGuero

Why wouldn't you need a MAF once you have the bikirom?

kaje36

the megabikirom has a map sensor option

veilside180sx

To add to what was previously written:

These are the Prerequisites to building a SOHC Turbo. Together we will go through typical setups from mild to extreme to reach the power goals you desire. These are lists of typically used items that are easily attainable by the average person. All setups should have the Air to Fuel Ratio verified on a dyno with wideband or at very least on a track using an in-car wideband setup (NO watching the standard O2 signal and calling it good). If your using pump gas and seeing air to fuel ratios more lean than 11.8:1-12:1, some rethinking on the tuning/fuel setup will be needed. A narrowband guage(typical A/F guage from Autometer for instance) is not complex enough to be a real indication of the ratios inside your combustion chamber.



Very Mild Build: around 180 rwhp

Turbo Manifold
Blow Off Valve
Turbo (T25)
Downpipe 2.5" is perfectly fine
Pipe to connect turbo to throttle body

Fuel Control:
FMU (not recommended, but doable) Raises fuel pressure per boost to make injectors flow more than normal.
DSM 450cc Injectors or Comparable (These injectors are low impedence, while the ECU requires high impedence. Making it necessary to wire in resistors to alter that so the ECU can control them. These can be found at places found at the bottom)
Apexi SAFC2
Greddy Emanage


Mild power adder, say you want around 200 rwhp.


Turbo Manifold
Blow Off Valve
Small Intercooler (potentially get away with a side mount)
Turbo T25/T28/14B, etc. Smaller T2 setups. Usually will be internally wastegated.
Downpipe 2.5" is perfectly fine
Replacing the Exhaust is starting to be very necessary at this stage, so I would start to shop for that as well.

Fuel Control
DSM 450cc Injectors
Apexi SAFC2
Greddy Emanage
Back off base timing at distributor or MSD BTM

Average: 300 rwhp to 350 rwhp, you have to start to expect a little more lag. This is about the perfect "street car" limit. No race gas, just good honest street car fun that is fully capable of bring home a 12 second timeslip on a good run.

Turbo Manifold
T3/T04E .50 Trim compressor, .60 trim compressor housing / Stg 3 (aka TA31) turbine wheel, .48 to .63 A/R exhaust housing. Internal wastegate optional but not recommended.
Downpipe can still be 2.5", but this is as far as I would want to push that.
Front Mount Intercooler (FMIC) It's time to upgrade to a larger front mount as the larger will push more air than the smaller sidemount can cool.

Fuel Control
550cc Injectors
SAFC2 to control your fuel injectors, along with the stock ecu.
MSD BTM At this stage I would be running the BTM to control timing retard.
Reflashed ECU-This can be a DIY thing with Eprom Tuning or a JWT. This is the largest JWT is capable of flashing for those that want it.
Z32 Maf is required, as the stock Maf stops being able to read at around 260 rwhp.
Wideband O2 Sensor should be installed for tuning.

Block Internals
This is where I would start to consider it necessary to replace you pistons.

Above Average: 350 rwhp to 425 rwhp

Turbo Manifold
Blow Off Valve
T3/T04E 50 Trim .48/.63 or slightly larger turbo, this is where I would start to make the switch up to an external wastegate. You have the option to reroute it back into the exhaust, or merely "dump" it out into the open. "Dump" is usually a mini exhaust in the form of 1.5" piping routed out to the open.
FMIC Larger is starting to be necessary. Typical for setups from here on, are 12"x24"x3" for the core.
Downpipe 3", at this point I would switch to the larger downpipe. You can probably get away with it at 2.5", but it will be causing a little bit of backpressure. Moving to 3" piping as quickly as possible is what you want though. Usually it is necessary to have the first bend 2.5" to clear the steering shaft though.
Exhaust 3"

Block Internals
At this stage you'll want to "build" or fortify your block to better handle boost. Previous to this you can walk the line, but here and forward I find it necessary to do so.
Forged Rods
Forged Pistons
Stock Crank
Plus your typical rebuild items.


Fuel Control
Standalone fuel management is recommended at this stage in the game and is absolutely necessary at the next. These allow you control not only very large injectors, but the tuner to have complete control over both timing and fuel.
720cc Injectors.
Wideband O2 Sensor is necessary for tuning.

Wild Build: 425 rwhp to 600 rwhp. Lag is obviously going to be much more apparent, full boost isn't going to happen until around 4000-5000 rpms or so. Once spooled it will pull very hard.

Turbo Manifold
Turbo T3/T61/SC61 or GT35R seem to be the typical turbo's in the area. External Wastegate is your only option that should be considered.
Blow Off Valve You'll want a good performing more expensive blow off valve to alleviate reverted air when the throttle body closes from pushing against the compressor wheel.
FMIC the 24"x12"x3" Core's are still effective in this range.
Downpipe 3" is still capable of handling these power levels
Exhaust 3" or larger

Fuel Control
720cc-1600cc Injectors
Standalone Fuel Management
Recommeded to switch to Map instead of Maf for reading airflow.
Wideband 02 Sensor installed and wired into standalone for adjustments and monitoring.
Dyno tuning is very valuable.

Block Internals
Along with the previously mentioned internals I would add these to the list
Cam (per your discretion)
Build your head as well
Solid Lifter Conversion (not required, but not a bad idea)
Valve Springs
Valve Retainers
ARP Head/Main Studs
Cometic Headgasket or similar


Absolute turbo necessities...amongst the aforementioned goodies above.

Oil Lines (Picture of good return location)


Boost gauge

Here's lists of aftermarket products that are currently on the market

Turbo Build Parts

Turbo Manifold (Exhaust Manifold)

JGS Precision



Realnissan.com

Import-AutoPerformance.com



Nizzx.com



BOV

Tial
Greddy RS
JGS
HKS SSQV

Wastegates

Tial



JGS



Turbonetics

Block Internals

Pistons: Can be accomplished one of two ways, by purchasing ones that are made for the E with their intended compression ratio. The other is to use DE pistons and subtract a full compression point to equal the difference between the E and DE head. (ie 9:1 DE pistons will be 8:1 in an E)

Arias 8.8:1(E)
Wiseco 9:1(DE) 8:1(E)
JE
Ross 8.5:1(E)
CP 9:1(DE) 8:1(E)

Rods: Any rod that will fit the bottom end of the DE will work with E as well.

Crower
Pauter
Carillo
Eagle (release tbd)

Bearings

Whatever your preference is for rebuilds. Mine is Clevite.

ARP Head/Main Studs

JGS Precision sells them

Headgasket

SCE gaskets

Valves

SI valves

Valve Springs

Pioneer Inc Automotive Products
Intake Part Number:RV-1034-4
Exhaust Part Number: RV-611-4

Cams

PDM Racing
Nissan Motorsports
Colt Cams
Hybridka.com
JWT Technology

Solid Lifter Conversion Kit

Hybridka.com

Spark Plug Wire Shield

JGS Precision

Vacuum Block

JGS Precision

Heavy Duty Motor Mounts

Nismo (hard rubber)
JGS Precision (poly)
Ground Zero (solid)
Kazama

Typical Injectors Used on SOHC

DSM (Eclipse/Talon/Laser) 450cc Injectors *Low Impedence*

RX-7 T2 550cc Injectors *High Impedence* Denso 195500-2020

RX-7 N/A 460cc Injectors *High Impedence*

CA18DET 370cc Injectors *Low Impedence*

Injector Resistors (To alter low impedence to work with a high impedence ecu)

JWT Technology
JGS Precision

broken_s13

You're the mod from KA-T? Thanks for the contribution.

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veilside180sx

Not a mod, (well am now actually) but I'm a friend of Rick's and post a lot.

ledzeppelin240

That Import-AutoPerformance manifold looks nice. Equal Length runners is what I was looking for. Except I don't like where the wastegate piping is. So when I purchase the manifold I am going to cut the piping off, get it welded up and relocate it to where that circle thing is just before the flange.

I am wondering if anyone has done head work to the KA24E, I am going to port and polish the cylinder head myself, use stainless steel swirl polished undecut valves, Manganese-Bronze valve guides.

What I am not too sure about right now is the solid lifters and camshaft. Does anyone have any insight on this?

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Anyway, no drug, not even alcohol, causes the fundamental ills of society. If we're looking for the source of our troubles, we shouldn't test people for drugs, we should test them for stupidity, ignorance, greed and love of power.

Looking for: JDM S13 OEM Sideskirts

veilside180sx

If your going to do all that with the manifold, just have one custom made for you. Contact Lance at JGS Precision, he'll make you one. Made all my custom parts, and does a great job. www.jgstools.com/turbo/index3.html

The KA24E was used profusely during the previous decade by SCCA NA guys. Geoff at Colt Cams has been working a lot with people from ka-t.org in producing really effective turbo cams for the SOHC. The cam should be cut a little different to run with solid lifters if you want him to work with you on that, he should.

Here's my custom intake manifold Lance made for my SOHC.

ledzeppelin240

That is a beautiful intake manifold. Thanks for the advice on the turbo manifold, as well as the cam, I plan to look into that.

I am also looking into a symmetrical intake manifold, although I question if there is much of a gain.

__________________
Anyway, no drug, not even alcohol, causes the fundamental ills of society. If we're looking for the source of our troubles, we shouldn't test people for drugs, we should test them for stupidity, ignorance, greed and love of power.

Looking for: JDM S13 OEM Sideskirts

breakindrifts

I got a question, so right now Im saving up for my Ka-t setup and rebuilding my spare ka. I was thinking I might as well install the system in the engine in my car right now. This way I can practice tuning with the SAFC and get used to managing the boost, while saving up $ for forged internals for my spare. Problem is, I want to basically bolt on the turbo stuff on my current engine and was wondering if there is any alternate area I can tap in the oil return line? Like an oil filter sandwich plate? Dipstick? Sounds ghetto but I dont want to have to deal with getting the oil pan off and welding a bung in there.

veilside180sx

None that I would view as a viable or reliable option. it's worth the time inevested to do it correctly. Quite a few people take a punch punch the metal and then weld on the flange. Personally that's not for me, I'll drill and weld with the pan off. Do it once, and do it right.

ledzeppelin240

If your going to do something you should do it right. Most of the failures are due to shotty ways of doing something...Anyone can rebuild a engine, but it might only last 20,000miles. Compared to the person who know what they are doing and does it all the right way it will last 200,000miles+....

__________________
Anyway, no drug, not even alcohol, causes the fundamental ills of society. If we're looking for the source of our troubles, we shouldn't test people for drugs, we should test them for stupidity, ignorance, greed and love of power.

Looking for: JDM S13 OEM Sideskirts

breakindrifts

Point was taken but I dont think I explained my situation clearly. I have 2 engines, (one in car,) and an extra which will be getting forged pistons, and a proper oil return bung welded onto oil pan.

I was just asking if there is any other way to temporarily get a oil return spot, just so I can get boosting in my old crappy motor, (the one currently in the car,) without having to pull the engine.

This would simply be for kicks while I finish up my spare, which would be properly built, and assembled to withstand daily driving. Also learning to use SAFC2 on my new engine worries me, and even though I will be using a wideband O2 system, Id rather learn on the shitty motor first.

If there is a way to get a temporary, basically bolt on oil system that will be good for a month or less, I would rather boost that first. Then later I can swap in my good motor and get a proper setup on it.

Thanks for your input guys.

veilside180sx

There really isn't though. It's worth a couple of hours investment and dropping the oil pan to weld it on.

Support the engine/tranny with a jack under the tranny. Drop the crossmember. First removing the power steering rack, so you can drop it.

Then remove, weld, reinstall.

breakindrifts

Thanks veilside, I will just wait and do it all at once when I swap in the rebuilt block.

Well today I actually decide Im going to have to skip on the forged pistons and head work. Seeing as how Im still 17, and my job at Pep boys isn't going to supplement me with enough funds to build the nice ka I wanted, so I decide to just rebuild the engine OE style. I think 200-250 whp will be satisfying enough.

Well I now need some clarification on BOV's; I would think it best to have it on the cold pipe, right?
Also, I hear there can be some idle irregularities if the BOV is not recirculated, so where exactly does one recirculate the excess pressure? Back somewhere into the charge pipe? Or back into the vaccum system?

ledzeppelin240

Back into turbo outlet pipe. The reason for problems is the engine expects the air and when the BOV opens that air is gone...

__________________
Anyway, no drug, not even alcohol, causes the fundamental ills of society. If we're looking for the source of our troubles, we shouldn't test people for drugs, we should test them for stupidity, ignorance, greed and love of power.

Looking for: JDM S13 OEM Sideskirts

CaoBoY

what would be a good rebuild kit for the motor? putting it back OE spec? importperformanceparts.com has one, i was wondering if anyone has had any experience with them, or has rebuilt it with another kit from a website or company? what was the pricing on it (stock spec)

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pulling outta the game:
http://www.zilvia.net/f/showthread.p...wpost&t=119867
parting out, just let me know.

monicais

s14forever

Hi i had a 97 240sx and i want to make a little faster. just fast enough to have fun ont he street.

let me know if i miss anything

im planning to go around 200-250rwph so i follow the step of VEILSIDE180sx post.

so far i got:

walbro : about $100
370cc
JDM Sport's TD04-H Style internal Wastegate T25/T28 Turbo ($300)
Apexi Safc2 from friend ( $175 )
Greddy Emanage used for ( $225)
MSD BTM ignition boost timing master NIB ( $125)
ebay FIMC
JGS Precision manifold
Polish BOW ( $100 )

those are in my listed so far.

So can anyone tell me if i missing anything? is good to go?

brazilian6angsta

hi im having a problem with my single cam turbo set up. im going to explain it best that i can and hope that u guys can help. First off the car is a 90 240sx auto with 50,000 original miles, the turbo kit is ebay kit with a .50 a/r trim t3/t4 hybrid. it has a good sized fmic and the headers where custom made log manifold. it has an external wastegate and greddy type r blow off valve, stainless steel lines and custom downpipe. the turbo was very recently installed and the car starts up and idles fine. once you give it gas it revs up then when u let go the car starts bogging out and dies I personally think its fuel but my turbo guys tell me otherwise. It could be vaccum or that the engine isnt getting enough air. i have the stock injectors and stock fuel pump and stock fuel regulator and since the wastegate has a ten pound spring im thinking the motors being starved of fuel. Anybody else have any ideas? im trying to aviod a fuel computer... is it possible? ALSO i have 360cc injectors from a vr-4 3000gt the impedance is 014 i believe they do fit the fuel rail will they work?
p.s. i have 3 vaccum lines hooked up right after the mafs before the turbo the fat one from the top of the valve cover and 2 more from somewhere else. i heard recirculating the air from the blow off valve can help will that do it?

sr20det4mys13

yeah i think you might need injectors with a t3/t4 thats pretty big thats when u need to get injectors i think you can get the 300zx ones on there but im not sure, thats what a lot of people do when the get ka24det, the 300zx maf and the injectors for a t3/t4 i think i heard 500cc injectors or 550 injectors you got the 300zx maf right? or do u have the stock one? because the stock one stops reading at like 250 or 260 rwhp. thats my guess is that its injectors.. latah

sr20det4mys13

veilside180sx did u get that off of ka-t.org? cuz it sounds fimiliar

SochBAT

He originally posted it on KA-T as well, and he just brought the whole damn thing over. One in the same.

240trooper

i wanted to make mine ka24et but i recked it, buttttt!!!! i do have a spare 1990 ka24e with 100,000 of it . ... have anyone heard of the compression eng.??? the block from a SOHC with a head form the DOHC. from what ive heard its like 12.1,1 compression crazy eng, not tilgt crazy tork

zugoi

Very nice write up. This will come in handy.

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Drunk posting FTW!

nismohoe24

anyone ever used n62 maf 370 injectors on a ka24et with no more than 12psi on factory ecu with no tuning ?????