chetacheese

hey guys just finished my ka-t. well not completely
t25
cometic headgasket
fmic
enthalpy tune
n60 maf(about 10 inches from the turbo)
370cc injectors
removed emissions(egr blocked off)
ngk bkr7e(should i gap these to something else? i was told they come ready for ka-t right out the box)
ngk spark plug wires
i dont know if im missing anything(if anything else is needed, mention it)
i tried to set my timing and every couple cycles, it would sound like maybe the a/f ratio is off. like a quick choke or quick stutter. and with my timing gun, the crank pully marks doesnt stay in one place, it keeps jumping. no i dont have a wideband but im saving for it right now. and i just need my car to run decent enough to get me to school.

maybe my vacuum lines have something to do with this. on the vacuum gallery, the bigger tube of the lines has vacuum. i connected this to my bov. on the other side of the gallery, theres a tube that is getting vacuum that i used for the fpr. then on the side near the brake booster line i connected it to my wastegate. am i doing something wrong here. then also near the throttle body, theres a line that blows out air everytime i open throttle. i apologize for my ignorance but im here to learn. help me out guys!

Shadowhunter

Pictures will help your cause.

davirene

Did u pull your distributor....Im no expert....but...I seen this recently when i did a head job...and dropped my distributor in on the wrong cycle...

Where are u located?

spooled240

what's it idling at? rpm's stable?

dato

From what I think u saying is u drive ur car with new plugs and then it feels like it studders when wide open throttle? If so it's ur plugs and gap them to .28 what type plugs?

chetacheese

yea ive checked the dizzy. i was 180 degrees off. but now its fixed. pictures will be up today then.

rpms are around 950. +-40 then quickly drops to 740 then back up every 4 seconds.

dato:the set up is new so this is all new. spark plugs are bkr7e. i didnt gap them, its right out the box.

chetacheese

just regapped the plugs and didnt make much of a difference.

also rotated the dizzy a tooth forward and a tooth back. the original place i had it was right and idled decently. when i test drove it, it started smoking out the exhaust and from the turbo region.

what do you guys think this could be?

limited240

i dont tink there should be air coming out at open throttle. check if u dont have boost leaks or vaccum leaks...
how much are u boosting. did u use a oil restrictor on ur turbo.

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mr_chingon

block that line that blows out air.
that would be a boost leak.


and is the ecu tuned for the n60 maf or an s13 maf?

chetacheese

tuned for an n60 maf. yea i did block that off. but i have vacuum coming from 3 different spots. 2 from the gallery and one from the intake manifold right below the brake booster line. there is a restrictor on my oil lines. can the vacuum cause all the rough idling though? thats more of my concern.

also, whats the best place to get my wastegate and bov source?

FaLKoN240

When I got my ECU tuned by Enthalpy Scott said he WON'T tune for N60, and he WON'T tune for 370cc injectors.

But then again I was running a T28.

Did you get the ECU directly from Enthalpy? Or buy it used?

Definately check for any boost leaks you might have.

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mr_chingon

how many miles on the motor it could be that the valve stem seal are gone.

chetacheese

the motor has about 130,000 miles on the motor with a new headgasket and almost all the gaskets during installation. yea i got it directly from enthalpy. i placed my order and told him my exact setup and he said yes. of course mine is with a t25. its running a little better. im just afraid of the timing now. unless theres a designated rought for the vacuum that most here uses.

greenzenki86

im no expert either but thats high miles, did you do a compression test before you boosted on this motor? also check all your vacuum lines cas it sounds like a boost leak as well, AND one other thing, if its stuttering like that, it could also be a fuel issue bro. pics would def help

greenzenki86

one more thing, you said mention if you're missing anything, id consider a walbro fuel pump soon, eventually it will be essential to have and a relatively inexpensive mod to add to your list.

chetacheese

oh i do have one. ahah forgot to list that. 255 lph walbro also. i guess ill have to check all those. I didnt do a compression test just because i though 130 wasnt too much for a 240 and i was changing my headgasket anyway. im giving the motor the benefit of the doubt that it has no issues. i hope i dont regret that.

limited240

check the wiring from the n60 maf. that could be a problem.. test the n60 maf make sure is working properly.. if its a vaccum/boost leak it wouldnt boost the psi ur setup to boost or maybe like 5 psi. it sometimes makes the car not start rightaway.

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limited240

if u blocked the egr. i would recoment block/remove butterflys, canister and all the extra vaccum lines.that goes into the intakemanifold.. thats what i did it makes the car run alot better...less weight too ..

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chetacheese

the intake manifold collector butterflies(or near the collector) were either already removed or never there. but if you mean the throttle body butterfly, i left that. i did block the egr with a plate that i made also.

update also: the car is running a lot better. i replace the coil which i think was getting weak. also found my "eng cont" fuse blown. so it could have been that when i didnt get a spark to my ignition coil. it idles better now. but still misfires every few seconds.

current symptoms with the car are, anytime my rpms go past around 4k, rpm would drop and car would die. im guessing this is because of my bov. i have the maf connected about 11 inches from the compressor. i heard a foot is usually the minimum. so im gonna recirculate it right now and see what happens. second symptom, theres light smoke coming out of my exhaust in lower rpms. i had someone drive behind me and they noticed that as i opened the throttle more, it would go away. im thinking im running a little rich due to black soot on the spark plugs. dry black soot. sorry no i dont have a wideband. but im looking for one, so if your selling one, shoot me a good deal and ill buy. local preffered in long beach.! thanks for all your help guys.

chetacheese

recirculation FTW. fixed my stalling issue(for future reference or for others to benefit off the search button)

as for the smoke, still smokey. what are the causes of smoke coming out of the exhaust besides a blown head gasket. i refuse to believe it is because i just replaced it with a cometic.

chetacheese

smoke from the exhaust = need a restrictor? i have on in line but its right before the hardline. does it have to be right before the turbo or is this setup fine? also, the restrictor i have came from a bag that says gt25 but the seller claims it works with a t25. i bought this a year ago and the oil feed line had a hole so i had to scrap it. question is, what size restrictor should i have with this? and does the sr20det have a restrictor in line out of the factory?

limited240

.32 and it goes just ontop of the turbo feed hole..

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R_G

Wait you used a Metal Head Gasket. Did you get the proper ra for the head and the block to mate the HG to your motor. Ra for cometic is about 50 or below RA

chetacheese

wait RA? sorry i either dont know what this means or i use a different noob/non pro term.

chetacheese

ign coil relay is buzzing after i try to start. in this case the coil isnt getting a spark. ive searched bout the buzzing but as lucky as i am, i only found issues regarding the egi relay buzzing. what is the reason for the buzzing?

om3ga

I hear a lot of things about cometics not sealing unless both surfaces are 100% perfect. Everyone says Fel-Pro Ftw because it works every time.

chetacheese

ohhh mann... that doesnt sound good. ill have to check into that more. does anyone know what the base stock timing for a ka is? 20* right"?

anyone know anything bout the ign coil relay? its still buzzing and my interior dash lights stay on even after the key has been removed

s14unimog

20* is correct. I backed mine to 17* when I had almost that identical setup.

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chetacheese

thanks. 20* it is. but my car will crank but not turn over becuase something is going on with the ignition coil relay. im getting a spark when i check the coil wire. it was just running fine. i disconnected my vacuum line that goes to the fpr as the car was running. and the car died, wont start from there.

chetacheese

figured it out with a DMM. resistance on the eng cont 10a fuse was about 10 k. one of the brown harness wires runs to it. previous owner of this car left that exposed and came in contact with a few other wires. hope it didnt mess anything up. sealed up the wire and checked the resistance again, back down to 0. started it and she started alright. (for future reference)