jbballa9876

hmm i think i see what you mean with the fuel pump, i did run out of gas not too long ago

when i rev it in idle the fuel pressure barely changes, although its not supposed to

when i drive slow in second it feels as if it were in 5th gear, and it takes a bit of cranking to get it started also

Ill get a inline fuel pressure gauge and test later, see if this is the issue. I got a feeling this walbro is a dud

EDT007

Would it be possible for you to get a hold of a spare ecu to test out? Not sure how Nissan ecu's are but I know in my DSM (Mitsu) days the 1g ecu had leaky capacitors that would cause some funky stuff. Not to mention you've been disconnecting it every night for months, can't be the best for the ecu pins. Just a random shot. Good luck. Hope you find your issue.

jbballa9876

thanks for the input. No i have no backup ecu, no back up coilpacks, or backup anything, kind of why i wanted to hook up consult since the series 2 ecu doesnt give led error codes.

sexcii-zenki

Have u checked the timing yet? Even if the belt is new possibility tensioner was left loose...

jbballa9876

i torqued all timing belt tensioners properly according to the r33 fsm when i put the motor together last year

sexcii-zenki

It won't cost u anything to check timing and at least rule timing out as a possibility, if u don't have a timing gun take off the timing cover and recheck, I've seen it hapen lots of times where cars come in and belt jumped..the most it will cost u is time...gl

welts12786

Man I am having similar issues. Seems to have a good idle and drives normals even at WOT. Other times It doesnt want to stay idle and dies out or idles hops and wont rev past 4k. I just ordered all my sensors since the motor was bought off of some high school kid. I did not order a TPS. Any suggestions?

jbballa9876

I just replaced the fuel pump thinking i wasnt getting enough pressure. Well, that didnt fix it, but now i have a beefy q45 pump compared to my walbro- not a bad upgrade for $20.

But i looked at the coilpacks, i dont know how you would go about testing them because they have built in ignitors. However, one of the coilpacks looked especially crappy.

I took the rubber plug off all the coilpacks. One of them had white powder crap built up in it and on the spring. This leads me to believe it could be the problem? Now i need to either order an extra set of coils or pickup some ls2 coils from the junkyard.

ch1873857

i have a set of splitfires for neo for sale..

jbballa9876

^^^ literely too poor for those, unless maybe you can sell 1 or 2

kouki-gymkhana

Try cleaning the coil packs. Google it for the instructions.

__________________
**The atypical S-chassis enthusiast***

sexcii-zenki

post up a few vids of the runnin condtion

greenwood

^yes please

jbballa9876

Thanks for everybodys suggestions so far. I would have posted a video but don't have a video camera of any kind but ill try to ask a friend for one soon.

I just ordered consult, that should be here in like 2 days. Also am going to put in some new coils before the weekend.

sexcii-zenki

not to sound like a douche, but ur fone dont have video? also did u rule out timing yet before u started ordering parts?

jbballa9876

No im gonna check timing soon along with compression, and my blackberry curve doesn't have video (college has made me very poor, but not for long).

So far ive only wasted $40 on a maf, and $40 on the consult program I just ordered though.

And the coilpacks im upgrading to GM which are only $70 and I planned on doing a check on timing when I put those in. One of my coilpacks had extremely bad corrosion, and a few others didn't look too good. If that's not it and I don't come up with any codes with consult I will check compression, the timing belt and go from there.

greenwood

Get a friend with an iPhone to upload video. C'mon man. Ur in college use ur noggin'

jbballa9876

Alright I installed new coilpacks and the same thing, but I almost finished wiring up the consult plug (had to pin in those wire to the ecu plug because they weren't there). Well I found the IGN pin #45 with a extremely bad looking connection upstream could have been shorting. There was bare wire hanging out with green crap around it. Ill fix that in the morning, and hopefully have consult running and report back.

The program im using for the consult plug is called ECUTalk by the way. I plan on taking apart the engine harness to check for any more bad wires that may have been contributing to this bad running problem/ battery drain issue.


Also after looking at the r33 wiring scheme in the fsm I found this IGN wire leads to a starter wire, maybe the reason why my starter seems to be struggling.

The IGN wire also leads to ignition coil, and maybe the fuel pump relay which I currently have jumped.

As long as I don't have mechanical engine damage Ill be extremely happy.

greenwood

Sounds good man. I hope that fixes it. One of these days I need to also go back through my wiring and clean it up

jbballa9876

Damn so I checked the codes with consult and got 55 (no error codes). Took off the top timing cover and guess what. It appears the belt is off a tooth. If I line up the intake cam gear on the left, the exhaust cam gear doesn't line up, its about a whole tooth away.

Also the timing belt had a crack, not front to back but in the middle.


Tomorrow I will line it back up, do a comp test...

greenwood

One tooth off shouldn't hurt compression, get a new belt on there don't run that cracked one and change ur oil

jbballa9876

^ thanks for all you input greenwood and everyone else. I would fix it today but gotta go to work. This seems like the problem to me but ill find out tomorrow, I hope your right about the compression

jbballa9876

Alright the timing belt is back on correctly, I rotated it about 10 times and made sure the marks lined up each time. Turns out there was shrapnel in the timing belt area, that little key that is on the crank collar, an extra one was just hanging out in there...

Im gonna get a timing light on it tomorrow, and check compression and see if my baby is fixed. If not ill be lookin for another head

ZenkiCam

i'm sure your head is fine. i had a 510 with an l20 and my camshaft snapped after the first set of lobes (cyl 2-4 valves werent moving *YIKES*) and fortunately when i took the head off all the valves were in the closed position and the head was still in perfect condition minus a camshaft, did a leakdown test and everything. just telling you that to ease your mind about your head being bad. goodluck with your compression test. look for consistency not high numbers.

jbballa9876

So I think the rb25 is all fixed and runs great now. Pretty hard to believe but this whole mess was caused by the woodruff key that either came out of the crank timing gear or was never on in the first place, scary! So I played it safe got a new timing gear and key and she seems fine now.