RalliartRsX

PS there is not a shred of evidence from those pics the engine was even opened up much less built. He shows engine removal, paint, parts list (which, is that even an authentic Garrett GT35??) which includes a new clutch, but I do not see anything proving the engine is built.

No saying it isn't, but none of the pictures there prove this..........I don't see rods on the list either.

Also, FSM compression for 8.5:1 engine should be 156. Anything below 120 is worn rings or to that extent and would necessitate an engine tear down. You can get away with it at that compression as I am sure most redtops from Japan are sitting right in that 110-120 unopened.

Either way, engine tear down. Too many holes in the story.

Good luck!

austintheginger

What pistons, crankshafts, valves, camshafts, etc. do you guys recommend to hold up to the turbo? If I'm tearing my shit apart, I want to replace everything I can so I can have the most reliability I can. I want to keep everything as original as possible (bore/stroke) but I want to be able to put some power down. Once I'm done with the build I'll get it tuned (obviously), so what ecu's and management systems would be best. I'd like to use what I can that's here such as the intercooler, bov, wastegate, fuel injectors, etc. but I'm pretty sure all the main internals will need replacing, hopefully without cylinder/head damage already being done. Thanks again for the help guys, I really appreciate it

RalliartRsX

Dude, you are going to have to do your own search. Everyone is going to give you their personal preference in regards to ECU, intercooler, bov and even fuel injectors.

I can tell you the easy button solution
Wiseco/CP pistons
Manley Rods
ACL Race/King bearings and thrust washers
ARP rod bolts
Mazworx head studs
Stock main bolts (so you do not have to align home).
Stock stroke
Minor Headwork
S4 cams
Stock crank ( you may need a new/used one)
ECU flavor of choice
etc etc etc

Everything else is up to the wind. I personally like Nismotornic, but someone else will chime in and say Haltech is the best...........then someone else will say "but AEM is the shit!" It's all up to you and what your goals are..........and it since you do not even have the engine apart yet..........

Considering the compression numbers, I suspect the engine will atleast need some boring, which means 0.5mm oversized pistons at the very least.

As mentioned, too many questions you need to answer yourself.

austintheginger

Completely understand as to personal preference. However when you say minor Headwork, what does that entail?

di-devol

You need to take a step back and relax.Grab your self a cup of coffee and take a while to read, there is a ton of info here on the forums. ALl about what headwork to do, what parts, etc.

Yank the motor out, pop it open to see what you're working with. Verify what turbo that is, verify the injectors, ecu etc.

Maybe the engine is built like he said, and if so the parts might still be good.

Check, and let us know.

__________________

RalliartRsX

OP: drop the pan and check for debris or metal. Any metal small or large and the engine is coming out.

With that compression the engine is coming out. Tear down the engine and come back to us with questions.

Stop thinking internals and all this other nonsense speculation. Remove engine, tear down or tear down in car, it doesn't matter. Things are coming apart one way or the other with that compression

Good luck

austintheginger

HOLY SHIT GUYS... I FOUND A THREAD HERE THAT IS MY PREVIOUS OWNER TRYING TO SELL HIS (MY) CAR HERE...
http://zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t=639544
Maybe this can help

Kingtal0n

Here is what I recommend for a power level of 340rwhp:
Part out the engine you currently have,
Find and Install a stock sr20det engine with good compression and clean oil,

Use:
550/740cc injectors, Z32 maf, Apexi MAF Power FC, and a Bottom mount GT2871r - 64a/r turbocharger on the OEM manifold with braided hoses for fluids.
An aluminum radiator, stock clutch fan and shroud, a name brand intercooler (HKS, Greddy, or similar) and a name brand bypass valve, recirculated as close to the turbo as possible (pics in my build thread for reference of 90% of this info).

The stock engine should show 135-150PSI Of compression, across the board, before you purchase it, demand a compression test. Make sure there is oil in the engine during the test. Look at the color of the oil, smell the oil, it should look clean and clear, and smell clean and sweet. No burning smell, no dark discoloration. make sure you look under the valve cover after the compression test.

If you follow this path you will spend less than 5k on the engine/build and have a reliable daily driver, provided the tuning is done correctly (approx 9* of timing during 15-18psi of boost on 93 octane is ideal for daily drivers, with 11.8:1 showing on the in car wideband)

Anything over 340rwhp, do not use the sr20det in my opinion. Because as you can see, it will cost 5k just for the engine, and often they only last a couple hundred miles and then you need another one. The previous owner of your engine probably blew it after a couple hundred miles, then rebuilt it and sold it quickly before it blew again. Very few people in the USA can properly build a small displacement engine like the sr20det.

It can be done though, but lets just play what if: what if you DO successfully build the sr20det, now what? Now you have a motor that demands methanol or E85, at 500+rwhp, and is not nearly as fun to drive on the street, because you have to rev the motor out higher to get to the power. You going to take the motor to a minimum of 5,000rpm everytime you leave a stoplight just to see some boost on the gauge? Not in a daily driver. And if you have to ask me "why not use a smaller turbo?" I would point out one critical oversight: you will spend just as much building an sr20det to support 400 as it costs to build one for 550. If we can get 350HP out of a stock engine ($1200 longblock) then it does not make sense to spend an additional $6000+ (the price of 5 stock longblocks, approx 250,000 miles of reliable daily driving) for a built engine that only provides an extra 50-100 horsepower. In other words, once you pass the 350hp bracket, the price of the engine multiplies by 5 times, and the chances of successfully getting a reliable engine decreases by approx the same factor of 5 or more.

__________________
5.3/4l80e/turbo 240sx playthrough:
https://tinyurl.com/turbo240

S14kouki805

Don't fuck with Kingtalon, that's guru shit right there. Wish I would've read this before rebuilding my shit.

That is very good advice

rawgarage

Some damn good advice

RalliartRsX

This is about 5% true, but keep telling the masses this is not so.


As mentioned in my thread, your ideas of a 340WHP is properly outdated and there are plenty of 400WHP SRs that do not use a VE head that do multiple trackdays and race series with vary nary a failure. Read: Cody Ace. Some 40 plus trackdays at 400WHP and he has yet to have a failure. And 1 track day equals about 5 years of abuse that you would ever place on your car just doddling around on the streets.

In addition with tuning, a good flowing head and a EFR turbo, a 450-500WHP SR will perform as mundane as a D series Honda out of boost and be very drivable in boost with nary a downside. I see it time and time again and not sure why you choose to not open your eyes and come to the realization that: Technology has advanced WAY beyond what you may think and you need to bring yourself to the turn of the century.

A well setup Haltech or AEM vehicle with proper failsafes works plenty magic.

Also, I have yet to buy a used SR I would use as a coffee table much less to throw in my car. These engines are almost 30 years old and people seem to think they are worth gold and asking 2500 for a S13 full swap with unknown mileage, leaking oil, with shit tunes, rat nest for wiring harness and missing all sorts of parts. Not to mention driven into a wall more times that there are hours in a year.

S15 engines are the youngest at 15 years old at best and 20 years old at the worst. 20 YEARS OLD! That's almost as old as I am young. And guess what?? People want minimum 2000 for a S15 long block.........Swaps are $3,500 and full swaps are almost $5,000 (from radiator to exhaust tip).

I will welcome you with open arms to the 21st century once you get a phone that can actually receive text messages (much less picture messages) and you are able to accept that Technology is capable of wondrous things, not something to play ignorance on.

And time is money: So now I buy a used SR with all these demands (which almost none will be met in that 1200 price range lol), swap it in, spend a bunch on miscellaneous and still have a stock SR with unknown history??

I mean shit, isn't that what got the OP in this mess to begin with?? Buying a block (or in this case, an entire vehicle) that is suppose to be in fantastic condition only to find with less than 20 psi compression on 2 cylinders?!?!