dorrifto

Yes, having the j30 diff is the only way I know how to get it to work. The 350z gives out a different type of signal that the 240's cluster will not recognize. Swapping the 350z cluster in there should work, theoretically.

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status

Rad. Thanks for the info man. And as for the tach/coolant temp/gas gauge, anyone have any info on what pins those would be coming from off the ECU?

dorrifto

as for the coolant, do not tap into the ecu wire. just buy an aftermarket gauge and sensor. If you tap into the ecu coolant signal wire, it will throw off the readings to the ecu and fuck shit up. I tried it, tried it again, and then one more time for good measure. Dont do it. lol.

As far as the tach, I actually have a passenger side coil wired into an MSD box, and then into a dakota adapter, and wired directly to the 240's stock tach. works great.

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status

Haha okay well i do have an aftermarket temp sensor, so i suppose i can just use that signal wire. Thanks for the info. If i'm using the 350z cluster, i shouldnt need the dakota adapter i'm guessing. Gonna have to look at the Z cluster and pigtail and figure out what wire is what i suppose. Thanks for the info!

dorrifto

You shouldn't need ANYTHING aftermarket if you use the 350z cluster. It gets all its info from the ecu so just wire it up the way it is supposed to be and (as far as I know) you shouldn't have any problems with tach/speedo/temp. The gas gauge, however.... Not sure how that would work...

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status

Cool man thanks. Just trying to find the cluster wiring diagrams. Keep coming up empty handed -___- cant find S13 OR 350z.

status

Okay found the wiring harness for the Z cluster. Now i just need the Z ECU diagram and i can do this!

dorrifto

Here ya go

Index of /FSM

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status

Oh fuck yeah. Awesome man thank you. Now my only problem is.. i cant find the fucking AC amp haha. The ECU was in the stock location, but i've been following wires and idk where the hell the put it! ..is it possible this guy didnt wire one in?

mpact1981

This should be posted on the main page of the forum in giant text......

ka-titties

its the best nissan resource on all of the internets.

40flash

The FSM shows the AC amp is under the stock radio.
Also the Q45 diff has a speed sensor like the J30 but the 1996 & earlier Q45 comes stock with the 3.54 gears that the 350z also came with. Down side is that the 240sx axles won't bolt up. If you want to run an S15 helical diff like I did then no problem. Use the Q45 case with the helical s15 diff and the 3.54 gears with the s15 stub axles that should come with you S15 diff. If you find the helical diff without the axles don't buy it. You'll get raped buying the axles separately. It's a very easy conversion that bolts in. It uses a larger driveshaft flange but if you have to have a driveline made anyway, no problem. If you want a little lower gear ratio, the 1997 & later Q45 came with 3.67 gears I believe.

status

Yeah i found that as well, looks like its mostly used to power the heaters and stereo stuff, but some wires do lead to the cluster. I'm thinking whoever did the swap in my car didnt put one of these in here, as it wasnt needed.

Guilty1s

It started!!!! First try it freaking started!!!! I couldn't keep it running for long cause I don't have my driveshaft till the end of this week which mean no gear oil so I couldn't keep yet trans spinning.

I just need to bleed my clutch line and hold in the clutch and do it again.

Big thanks to everyone who helped me out. 40flash especially. I have a bit info to share with everyone shortly that will make this stuff a lot easier to understand.

40flash

Many have wanted to know where you get drivelines made and what yoke to use for the new one. Here are the details. The driveline experts say the stock 350z/G35 driveline is non-rebuildable so don't waste your money aquiring one, (like I did.)
Instead find a good local driveline shop and have them make one. Mine turned out perfect. They supplied all parts and balanced it for $240.
Phoenix Rack & Axle (602) 252-8255
The yoke they used:
Spicer part number 7091.
It has 32 splines and is a perfect fit into the 350Z/G35 manual trans. It does use a larger diameter U-joint. You will have to shorten or remove the metal ring on the trans where the yoke slides in.

You can buy this yoke from them or your local driveline shop. Driveline Specialist inc. sells the yoke for $84. I'm sure either of the companies listed can make the entire driveshaft and ship it to you if you don't have a good local driveshaft maker. They will need an exact measurement from the trans output shaft to the diff input shaft faceplate and the spacing on the faceplate holes so they know which flange to use on your driveshaft. Happy hunting guys.
Driveshaft Specialist Inc.

8327 McCullough Avenue
San Antonio TX 78216

210.342.6622 Phone
210.342.7074 Fax

1.866.455.6622 Toll Free
Orders and Free Tech Advice

40flash

Many thanks to Dudewutup and all that contribute to this thread and the other VQ swap threads. My swap is now running.
It's fixed and running! Halaluliah. A genius at my local Nissan dealership, (Earnhardt Nissan, Mesa AZ) figured out that my MAF sensor was installed backwards in my home made bracket. I had made a very nice aluminum MAF holder because the MAF tube I had bought as a 350Z part turned out to be from something other than a 350z part. I cut the MAF mount off of it and created a new mount. In doing so I put it in backwards and it kept the thing from running and gave me all kinds of evil codes.
The wiring presented on these pages works just fine.

dorrifto

Ha wow that is crazy! It's always something stupid like that. Mine didn't run the first time because I had the exhaust and intake cam sensors switched (I have a rev up so there are 4 instead of 2).

Great to hear man!!

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40flash

So, did you get the 350Z cluster to work properly without the A/C amp? I also have a 350Z cluster but have made now attempt to hook it up and just wondered if I could at some point in the future.

40flash

While we are on the subject of gauge wiring, here is a post from 350sx NW build up.
Actually the blue/white wire is the shared 12v source for the entire ignition circuit so that wouldn't work. Each coil is 3 wires, Ground, Signal, and Pwr. Blue/White is power and black is obviously ground. The signal wire is going to be the only unique wire per each given coil. The signal is faint, but grapping it from that signal wire works for me. I'm using a Dakota Digital Tach Interface box and I adjusted accordingly to drive my tach. I'm pretty sure that the signal wires for the fuel injectors would be a better source because they run on a higher volt signal but I've got it working so I'm not going to mess with it unless it gives me trouble.

I posted this to suggest that he has it wired correctly but his suggestion that the injector signal wire would be a better and stronger source for the tach signal. I disagree. If you look at the wiring diagram for the injectors you will see that the every injectors is fed from a common 12v from the fuse box any time the ignition is turned on. When the ECU wants to energize a particular injector it closes a ground wire from the ECU to that injector. Since the they all get a constant 12 volts positive, the positive can't be used to pick up a pulse for the tach. Also you can't run the tach with the pulsed ground wire from the ECU.
The signal wire for Ignition coil number 1 is a better source for the tach signal. On the 2003 and maybe others, that wire is a yellow and red wire that feeds the coil from terminal 17 at the ECU. Don't cut the wire but splice into it and wire it to the Dakota Digital SGI-8 "signal in" terminal.

mpact1981

Thanks for the advice

40flash

I think I need to amend this advice. In reading the instruction sheet that comes with the Dakota Digital tach drive box it says you can use the ground feed for an injector for a tach drive signal. Sorry.

40flash

OK. One more time,this time from experience....
I now have my stock S14 tach working perfectly with the Dakota Digital SGI-8D. Here is how you hook it up. It's really easy.
1. Any switched on with ignition 12V + to power in.
2. Run a ground to the ground input, DUH!
3. Signal in. Tap into, (don't cut) the yellow/red wire that feeds the number 1 cylinder coil wire. It feeds a ground signal from the ECU terminal 62 to the number 1 coil.
(side note) I tried the injector wire for the number 1 cylinder and it works but when you let off of the gas, the ECU shuts off the injector for a few seconds as you decellerate which interupts the tach signal for tha period of time and the tach shuts off until the injector gets turned on again. Trust me. Use the coil wire. No issues.
4. Output wire from the dakota Digital box to the tach. At the 240SX F3 plug there is a tach siganl wire that by coincidence is also Yellow/red (F3 terminal 26.) Plug this wire into the output 2 terninal.
Wiring is done.
5. there are 4 switches on the Dakota Digital box.
A. Switch 1, on.
B. Switch 2, off
C. Switch 3, on.
D. Switch 4, off
You're done. Drive it.

I'm also using a SGI-5C Dakota Digital box for the S14 stock speedo. It's hooked up to the ABS sensor in my Q45 diff with 3.54 ring & pinion and S15 helical limited slip. Their customer service is great. There are several different way to hook up their box and get your speedo working including their magnetic sensor on your drive line if you don't have a diff with a speed sensor. Buy the box and call them. They will walk you through the set-up over the phone.

status

Wow AWESOME info man! Congrats on getting everything working! BTW you mentioned the F3 plug, where exactly is that?

ka-titties

how are you guys wiring this ignition power wire in? its not listed in the write-up.



referring to the 35 wire coming from the ecu relay and going out to all the coils

Guilty1s

I mention it here where I tally about the junction boxes

http://zilvia.net/f/tech-talk/481752...swap-info.html

ka-titties

Thanks for linking that. I didn't know you made a write-up.

eZiR- rps13

what did you guys do about the gas gauge?

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Guilty1s

Stock... Nothing in that setup changes.

40flash

The F3 plug is the plug near the ECU in the passenger foot well. This is where the engine loom plugs into the main or inside the car loom.

40flash

I had sent this info to a few of my friends but thought it I would post it here for all of the rest of you.
I took my 350SX to the Arizona DEQ this week. The tester opened the hood and looked it over. I explained that I had dual catalytic converters and all 4 oxygen sensors. He put the sniffer in the exhaust and ran the car. I didn’t ask whether he was testing it by 1995 240SX standards or 2004 350Z standards. Whatever, it was way cleaner than needed and passed with flying colors. It’s insured, legal and am driving it.
Next issue. It was way too loud and I was sure it would attract a lot of unwanted attention. I had originally installed a copy of a 40 series flowmaster for the back and an 18 inch glass pack in the middle below the driveline. It sounded pretty good but just way too loud for the street. So back to the muffler shop. I bought and installed a turbo muffler that is much quieter. Just a little bit of minor mods and it’s in there. It’s a turbo muffler style but larger than most of the typical 14 inch body 4 x 9 oval design. This one is a 5 x 11 oval with a 22 inch body length. It sounds great to me and no longer wakes the dead when I drive by a cemetery.
The new muffler is made by IMCO. Model T929.