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Old 10-14-2014, 09:38 AM   #5671
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head light bracket placement

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Originally Posted by connors13 View Post
tube front i did on my car. radiator support and headlight brackets come off by unbolting 6 bolts to make it a little easier to work on. not 100% done, still need to make the tube bumper, bumper supports and fender brackets




Hey man, I gotta ask how you were able to get your headlight brackets positioned, so that the headlamps are postitioned correctly when all bolted together (spacing between front garnish) and oriented correctly (both lamps pointing the right way)?, did you use like a reverse jig to guarantee that the lamps are in the right spot then tac weld the brackets together? don't make fun of me please, but did you use suction-cups (on the headlamp lenses) to fix the placement of the front end first, then tac barckets to mate up with that assmbly, magic? they look really good, is why I'm asking, and I have a similar type of modification I'm doing with fixed pop-up headlams, and I dont want to build the entire frame for the lamps without knowing I have them facing the right way. I would also eccept (I'm just a badass fabricator as an answer) hahah.
Thanks for your time.
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Old 10-14-2014, 03:25 PM   #5672
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Don't mean to ask for all the secrets... The one thing I was worried about is that currently my car has a 20 deg rake, as it it is jacked up under the rear subframe. I don't want to start fixing locations and orientation of the lamps until I get the car at the correct ride height. Did you turn the headlights and aim them before you set up the brackets? Sorry for all the questions.
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Old 11-06-2014, 08:12 PM   #5673
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Such a baddass thread!!! Huge props to all fabricators, welders, and DIY enthusiasts. Heres some of my work from the passed couple months...

Just finished up a custom turbo system for a R35 GTR using twin EFR 7670's





Also squeezed in a custom SR turbo kit for a Datsun 510





Made a custom exhaust system for my motorcycle to clean things up.











If anyone is interested in these projects or other crap I have going on, follow me @Jamison182 on Instagram. Cheers!



Last edited by Jamison182; 11-06-2014 at 09:53 PM..
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Old 11-06-2014, 09:26 PM   #5674
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Such a baddass thread!!! Huge props to all fabricators, welders, and DIY enthusiasts. Heres some of my work from the passed couple months...

Just finished up a custom turbo system for a R35 GTR using twin EFR 7670's





Also squeezed in a custom SR turbo kit for a Datsun 510







Made a custom exhaust system for my motorcycle to clean things up.











If anyone is interested in these projects or other crap I have going on, follow me @Jamison182 on Instagram. Cheers!


Nice welds!

What's your secret?!
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Old 11-06-2014, 09:46 PM   #5675
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Nice welds!

What's your secret?!
Thanks. Prep is key. Clean your material best as possible inside and out. Good gas coverage is a must. Back purging is always good too. Cheers.
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Old 11-06-2014, 11:42 PM   #5676
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hory shiet! amazing work jamison
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Old 11-07-2014, 07:40 AM   #5677
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Thanks. Prep is key. Clean your material best as possible inside and out. Good gas coverage is a must. Back purging is always good too. Cheers.
thanks for the great post to this thread that's been really slow lately.

i've also got a question. what method/tool do you use to cut your merge collectors? i built a jig to mount on my chop saw but i'm not happy with the quality of the cut i'm getting from the saw. i'm curious what tool others use to get the best cut, but still be able to get a 10-12 degree cut.

ps that R35 setup is excellent. very nicely packaged.
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Old 11-07-2014, 07:42 AM   #5678
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Big band saw with either a 3/4" or if you have the $ a 1" tall blade. Cuts a lot more straight than your typical half inch blade on a small saw.
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Old 11-07-2014, 09:30 AM   #5679
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thanks for the great post to this thread that's been really slow lately.

i've also got a question. what method/tool do you use to cut your merge collectors? i built a jig to mount on my chop saw but i'm not happy with the quality of the cut i'm getting from the saw. i'm curious what tool others use to get the best cut, but still be able to get a 10-12 degree cut.

ps that R35 setup is excellent. very nicely packaged.
Thanks for the kind words man, that R35 stuff was a lot of fun. Well If your not too concerned with production times, something like this is handy for doing individual peices, but they definatly have their problems too. I use something similar and it gets clamped in the vise jaws of my water cooled band saw. Imagine one of these, that has multiple slots to cut more than one peice at a time. Make sure that your cut jig holds the material firmly. The cuts come out way more precise, and it keeps the blade from distorting.



Here is a cut jig made by PRL. I've never used it, but it looks like a great idea. Might not be the most practical for larger scale production work. I like how the clamping system keeps the elbow from spinning.

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Old 11-07-2014, 09:32 AM   #5680
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I have the 1st gen walefab collector cutter. I designed it and he came up with the machining details. It works great.
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Old 11-07-2014, 09:56 AM   #5681
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yeah i'm not concerned with production times at all. i just fab for myself in my garage. i've been attempting some header collectors and things of that sort but i'm getting sub par results from my current setup. my band saw doesnt have the throat depth to cut an 11 degree cut on a 2-3" tube unfortunately.
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Old 11-12-2014, 06:40 PM   #5682
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bump this joint.

ive been looking for pics and DIYs for people that have modified their rear quarters. like for rolling them.

instead of hacking up the rear quarter, I was thinking of separating the inner lip of the wheel well then cutting or drilling out the spot welds to have the outer metal be able to bend more and then reinforce it with a plate or something.

Its hard to explain, so if anyone has pics or links that would be great.
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Old 11-23-2014, 11:21 AM   #5683
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bump this joint.

ive been looking for pics and DIYs for people that have modified their rear quarters. like for rolling them.

instead of hacking up the rear quarter, I was thinking of separating the inner lip of the wheel well then cutting or drilling out the spot welds to have the outer metal be able to bend more and then reinforce it with a plate or something.

Its hard to explain, so if anyone has pics or links that would be great.
That's not a roll, that's a heavy pull with fender well mods. Just remember there's a limit to how much the factory sheet metal will 'stretch'. You can drill out the spot welds on the inner fender and get some flexibility there for what you describe, but you've got to think about what the pinch weld area is going to do as it'll still be very much attached.

Edit, damnit SteveO just ask this on MA? And why haven't I fixed my location on the Z yet?
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Old 11-24-2014, 06:10 AM   #5684
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FRhatch View Post
Hey man, I gotta ask how you were able to get your headlight brackets positioned, so that the headlamps are postitioned correctly when all bolted together (spacing between front garnish) and oriented correctly (both lamps pointing the right way)?, did you use like a reverse jig to guarantee that the lamps are in the right spot then tac weld the brackets together? don't make fun of me please, but did you use suction-cups (on the headlamp lenses) to fix the placement of the front end first, then tac barckets to mate up with that assmbly, magic? they look really good, is why I'm asking, and I have a similar type of modification I'm doing with fixed pop-up headlams, and I dont want to build the entire frame for the lamps without knowing I have them facing the right way. I would also eccept (I'm just a badass fabricator as an answer) hahah.
Thanks for your time.
sorry for the late response i haven't been on zilvia in weeks. for the headlights i made the brackets for each light, they are adjustable so i can tilt the angle of the lights if i need to. i tack'ed those brackets to each other so they stay level with each other and positioned them into place with a jack and tack'ed them in. silvia lights may be a little easier than pop ups. good luck if you haven't already done it.
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Old 11-24-2014, 06:30 AM   #5685
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Thanks man! That's kind of what I've been looking to do... I actually ended up sourcing some NSX lights which have adjustability built into them. Originally I was going to use lights I hacked up from a subaru SVX. But even trimmed down they are just too wide to get in to the headlamp bucket. The NSX lights will be way easier, and afford the adjustability to aim them right! Keep up the good work, and thanks for the response.
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Old 11-24-2014, 10:47 AM   #5686
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S13 solid motor mounts i make for people




Safari bar for my buddys evo 9



and some practice.

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Old 11-24-2014, 10:54 AM   #5687
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Bash bar build.

















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Old 11-24-2014, 12:21 PM   #5688
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https://www.facebook.com/CinderTrackFabrication
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Old 12-01-2014, 12:17 PM   #5689
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Made this for a guy the other day pretty hard to weld and have it look good.
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Old 12-01-2014, 01:17 PM   #5690
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Neat, any pictures of the inside of the runners?
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Old 12-01-2014, 02:39 PM   #5691
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I dont the sr runners are way smaller and required alot of porting.
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Old 12-10-2014, 11:26 PM   #5692
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Its been a busy week for me and my project hatch. I cleaned up some the coolant lines under the I.M. and made a stainless loop to bypass/delete my heater core



I put the finishing touches on my exhaust manifold and welded a 90 degree elbow to the compressor housing.



Tacked up a few more bars to my cage late last night too



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Old 12-10-2014, 11:29 PM   #5693
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Nice work like the loop!
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Old 12-11-2014, 12:06 AM   #5694
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Killin it Jimmy!
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Old 12-11-2014, 06:35 AM   #5695
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While I like the coolant loop to eliminate heater hoses. . . isn't that gonna rub the firewall? Just wondering, I went a different route myself. Interested to see that fits, looks good!
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Old 12-11-2014, 02:10 PM   #5696
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Killin it Jimmy!
Thanks homie!!! Post that V-mount!


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While I like the coolant loop to eliminate heater hoses. . . isn't that gonna rub the firewall? Just wondering, I went a different route myself. Interested to see that fits, looks good!
Thanks man. That pic makes it seem like like a tight fit, but there's actually a good amount of room. I made the loop about a half inch more tucked than the factory hoses. I took some more to give a better idea of clearance or if anyone else wants to do the same mod.



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Old 12-12-2014, 12:44 AM   #5697
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Oh Cool, you work at FFTEC right? Cool stuff mang, really nice work. Are those the Tial housings for that GTR?









some of the nicer photos off my broken ass phone.
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Old 12-12-2014, 01:06 AM   #5698
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Oh Cool, you work at FFTEC right? Cool stuff mang, really nice work. Are those the Tial housings for that GTR?
Thanks man. Your work looks really nice too! Yeah I run the production fab over there for a 9-5 and run my own custom fab operation on the side. But to answer your question about the EFR's, no, no Tial housings here. Cheers.

Last edited by Jamison182; 12-12-2014 at 10:29 AM.. Reason: Wrong info
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Old 12-12-2014, 04:20 AM   #5699
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Angle kit by me. Geometry corrected.
CNC assisted kit coming soon. All geometry on coming version will be as close to ideal as I can get it. Kinematics will be plotted and tested on solidworks, and then driven and tested in real life in pro-am fd.
I'll definitely be posting up that stuff in a lot more detail. Drivable kitsare a couple months out, and solid works models should be done next month (hard between work and school). Awesome engineering extra credit though haha.


image sharing

Just finished turbine outlet. Kind of crappy pic of it. But it turned out pretty well! Fitment is prettydang on point. 3.5" v-band, flexpipe with larger I.D. and mandrel bent "elbows" used for curves. 3-3.5" cone adapter to 3" turbo outlet.

I love seeing everyone's fabrication! I'm still a noob, but I'm learning.I have so far to go though lol.
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Old 12-17-2014, 05:18 PM   #5700
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What do you guys use for pipe benders? Looking for something that can handle up to 2"x.120 wall pipe without putting kinks in it.
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