leanin sidewayz

Alright everyone I'm new here, and this my first post so please bear with me.

So here's the deal I have a red top (with fins) with a #62 ecu no tune. I got the engine, and swapped at local shop called jdmhookup. Had them do the swap due to a time issue on my end.

The issue that I am having is this loping/kind of pulsating idle. I'll start the car no issue (other then when cold it studders for a second then smooths out at 1500rpms)(I have had it die before it studders so bad), let it warm up, and when it reaches operating temp the idle starts to pulsate around 10-30 rpms. Just slight movement around on the needle. It sits around 900rpms. Now when driving there are no other issues. Pulls like a champ, and drives great at any speed. The guy who insalled it said he compression checked it and got 150-160 across the board.

Here's what's been done to it. Front mount intercooler, it's running recirculated to a pretty cheap bov. No fan shroud, has an electric fan on the rad plus the clutch fan on at all times. I know there's no boost leak, because I checked. Not %100 if there's no vac leaks. If you pop the hood you can hear, and see what the hiccup looks like. I know it's not a misfire. Doesn't burn oil, can hardley hear any lifter noise over the injectors even if you put your ear on the valve cover. (I ohmd the injectors btw, all at 11). Cams looked beautiful with the valve cover off. I haven't clean the idle air. Tps is what I see everyone recommend to check into. But I'm not too sure how to go about that.

I know this topic has been beat to deaaaath. But everywhere I search on here, or google. Everyone has a completely different issue that doesn't come close to the jumpy idle I have. People I know have told me not to worry about it, because sr's are common to idle like that, and not sit at a perfect beed on the TAC. Is there some truth to that? No codes on the ecu. I do have a boost gauge. It reads in bars. When at idle it likes to sit at -5. My exhaust is a down pipe to a full 3 inch back to a fart can without the silencer. I do have an exhaust leak where one of two of the pipes connect. (Just trying to think of any info I can give you guys)

Thank you for your patiences as I'm not an expert on boosted engines, or posting on fourms.

angel mkiv

Set your tps adjustment correctly,then clean out your iacv, and check your spark plugs and make sure they are ok and the gap is set right, and double/triple check all vacuum lines.google will tell you how to do everything I just said

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leanin sidewayz

Thank you. I will check into everything you just informed me about, and give an update tommorow.

Side note. The CAS is turned completely one way rather then centered.

angel mkiv

Oh then he'll yeah, fix your timing as well!another simple thing you can do is pull the maf sensor and clean it with a maf cleaner spray..you can find that bottle at any auto parts store.

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leanin sidewayz

My friend who has an sr he built from the ground up was going to come over, and we were going to pop the valve cover off and, set the CAS to it's correct point. But it's raining it's ass off so we scrapped the plan for today.

See now what bothers me is this guy who did the swap swore up and down more then atleast 5 times that it was perfectly in time(I %100 doubt everything he said now). Really? Because I remember when I had the single cam KA in the car I had it retimed by someone who has retimed all my vehicles perfectly, and that ka ran like dump on it's base time. So I took the dizzy, and advanced it completely. If I'm not mistaken the CAS is advanced all the way too. Leading me to believe something is maybe being masked in this case?

The single jingle died of low compression on cyl 2 @ 60psi. Annnnd a rod knock. (Rookie mistake on my end buying it that way).

Can driving it fully advanced the way it is cause any damage? And when I do set the CAS will there be anything else I will need to look into resetting aswell?

frankies1390

have u ohm'd your temp sensor? if its bad then it sounds like similar symptoms. the coolant temp sensor on mine was bad and idle surged and all kinds of stuff i went through the multiple hoops u have to while trouble shooting the sr's. thats just my 2 cents?

leanin sidewayz

I haven't, but it wouldn't hurt to check. I thought maybe, it may have something to do with a faulty sensor. Or even the fan that is always on not letting the engine reach full operating temp. Which in throwing the idle air off since there is coolant lines running to it (that seems to easy,and not really realistic). What should the temp sensor ohm at?

5280VertDET

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S13 Vert | SR | PE1420 | 5-Speed | 15x9.5 - 0 |

leanin sidewayz

I like the link. Thank you.

Not sure what your quote was directed at lol. I plan to daily my SR. Not make it a missile, or dog it everywhere I drive.

5280VertDET

It's a good place to start and should be checked and verified when ever you have a problem with idle or similar.

Glad to hear you're not missileing it. I think you may be referring to my sig; It's there all the time.

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S13 Vert | SR | PE1420 | 5-Speed | 15x9.5 - 0 |

leanin sidewayz

Alright gentlemen, so I finally had some time to look into this ide. Here's what myself, and my friend did with the limited amount of time we had.

Started her up. Let her get warm. Now I had noted previously that my CAS was fully turned to retard. So we put it as dead center we could by eye ball. The lopy jumpy idle stopped. But now it likes to sit at 1300-1500 rpms( seems high to me).

Drove it for a day, and on my way home from work it was going from 1300 to 1900 then back down in a pattern. So when I got home I popped the hood, left the car running, and then bled the top screw on the water neck thinking there was maybe an air bubble in the coolant. Didn't do a darn thing.

So I then turned the CAS back where it was originally. Bam! The massive surge stops. After that I played around with the CAS a tad, and ended up leaving it in the center since that's where it runs perfectly smooth. BUT! It never went back to surging as drank a fee beers aand watched it idle.

What do you guys think??

leanin sidewayz

Bumpppppppppp

ultimateirving

Iacv controls idle so it sounds to me Now that you fixed the timing Need to adjust th iacv . Leave the cas centered and adjust the idle using the screw on the iacv until it's about 800-850 or so. If you get massive surge it can be due to the iacv not working properly/frozen gummed up
Don't forget you need to be in timing mode or have consult set up so you can manually set it up

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leanin sidewayz

Since it's going to be nice for a few days, Monday looks to be the day I'm going to do that. I'm either going to adjust that to where it needs to be. Or take the stock manifold off since I have an offer on a "freddy" with another iacv Included.

I will note now after driving it for a day or so after the big suges stopped the ecu must have done it's own thing. Because my idle is now about 850-90 . Still kinda rough till I get moving.

A question I have is, if I do put this after market intake on am I moving towards needing a tune of some sort?
Biggest reason I want to switch is so I can actually get to the iacv. Since the stock one is almost impossible to reach from any angle

Oh! And my tps is as .49 my friend said leave it even though I wanted it at that perfect .45

leanin sidewayz

Also I'll note that this sr runs awesome up top. But if off that nastt idle I give it a 100rpm rev and it just feels a bit round until I get it going to about 1300. It's not a misfire. Maybe my exhaust leak?

leanin sidewayz

Another questio . Where does the iacv screw sit stock?

Btw boys....the idle is rough due to there being a leak on this cheap intake cone I have. If I plug the gap. Idles perfect at 900.

I also notice if I unplug the maf while the car is on it will smoke like its running ric . Or if I plug that gap it'll smoke a tad as well. Any input gentlemen?

leanin sidewayz

Well gentlemen thank you for all your help.
Solved the issue. There was a decent sized gap in my cone filter housin . Made my own gasket and wala no more rough idl . No longer misses a beat.