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Old 02-23-2014, 03:33 PM   #1
JDMBart
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KA24DE Idle Issue Please Help

Need some help with my idle. It idles at a steady 1000 rpm but when i apply gas it no longer stays constant and fluctuates around 2k rpms. I have already made adjustments with the idle screw. Any help is appreciated.

Heres the youtube video:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c0SeJ...ature=youtu.be
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Old 02-24-2014, 05:03 PM   #2
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anyone know where to start?
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Old 02-25-2014, 06:38 AM   #3
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TPS sensor probably.
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Did you check the potato fuse located in the front right corner of your gas tank?
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No i haven't. To be honest i didnt know there was a fuse there. Thats not a fuse for the fuel pump is it?
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Old 02-25-2014, 07:53 AM   #4
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The idle screw should have been the last thing you check, could of been that the iacv settings were good but now thrown off, check for a possible vaccum leak around the intake manifold, fuel rail, bad injector o-rings, brake booster line...etc
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Old 03-06-2014, 10:24 PM   #5
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update: ive changed my spark plugs and o2 sensor, cleaned the maf and cleaned the throttle body. I have also fixed two vaccum leaks. My idle is still high after letting off the throttle
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Old 03-07-2014, 06:06 AM   #6
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You're saying it idles good, then once you apply gas it starts to bounce to 2k and down? If that's so, then see how your coolant level is. Might need to add some. My friends teg did the same thing and we had to add a lot more coolant and it was good after. I don't know if it'll be the same reason, but something you can check.
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Old 03-07-2014, 06:37 AM   #7
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Yep, coolant level is full. Both the radiator and reservoir were topped off. However maybe it could be a coolant sensor?

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Old 03-11-2014, 12:49 PM   #8
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Update: cleaned my iacv today and it helped a little bit but still seems to idle high
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Old 03-12-2014, 01:28 PM   #9
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Sounds like mine. It would idle around 2k then drop down to roughly 1200-1500 for a couple secs then go back up. Found out I had a big exhaust leak where the egr pipe is connected to the exhaust manifold before the o2. not sure if i fixed it or not cause i had to redo my lower timing chain. I'll let you know when its fired up. hopefully this weekend if the weather permits.
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Old 03-12-2014, 01:59 PM   #10
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Sounds like mine. It would idle around 2k then drop down to roughly 1200-1500 for a couple secs then go back up. Found out I had a big exhaust leak where the egr pipe is connected to the exhaust manifold before the o2. not sure if i fixed it or not cause i had to redo my lower timing chain. I'll let you know when its fired up. hopefully this weekend if the weather permits.
okay sounds good, i actually deleted my egr valve so i scewed a plug into the exhaust manifold and bought an isis block off plate for the intake manifold. I am putting on a new tps sensor and throttle body gasket tomorrow. I will keep this thread updated
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Old 03-13-2014, 10:32 PM   #11
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Did you know that the EGR valve is off at idle and WOT? So that delete plate does nothing for you. It's vacuum controlled so as soon as you hit the gas, it shuts off and you are running full on. It only turns on at cruising speeds and light accelerations. This saves your gas and reduces NOx emissions, as well as it saves your cats efficiency in the long haul. IMO, and TLDR, bring the EGR back into play.

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Old 03-13-2014, 11:40 PM   #12
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When I deleted my EGR I had similar issues. There is a valve/solenoid, I don't know the official name, that I deleted on accident as well. It has 3 vacuum lines running from it, probably a part of whats used to control the egr (there is a small plug on it as well). Without it the car was having a bit of trouble with stalling at traffic lights or stop signs and while driving I would have momentary loss of power that would get slightly worse if you pressed the gas before suddenly regaining power. So if you accidentally disposed of that it could be you're issue.
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Old 03-13-2014, 11:54 PM   #13
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[QUOTE=Trap Star;5583159]When I deleted my EGR I had similar issues. There is a valve/solenoid, I don't know the official name, that I deleted on accident as well. It has 3 vacuum lines running from it, probably a part of whats used to control the egr (there is a small plug on it as well). Without it the car was having a bit of trouble with stalling at traffic lights or stop signs and while driving I would have momentary loss of power that would get slightly worse if you pressed the gas before suddenly regaining power. So if you accidentally disposed of that it could be you're issue.[/QUOTE

I only deleted the main solenoid that gets blocked off by the egr plate. It had one vaccum line coming out of it but i Blocked that vaccum line off. I ran a vaccum test yesterday and tested 17 hpa which is normal.
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Old 03-17-2014, 01:00 PM   #14
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Check through this "how to", probably one of the most detailed ones I've seen in terms of pictures and description of what to do. I don't think you are supposed to block the line, I'm pretty sure it needs to be rerouted to work properly. I ended up not having to block any lines after I re-installed that valve I mentioned before.

http://tech.240sxone.com/115/ka24de-egr-removal/
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