adey

In trying to replace my stock wheel studs with 60mm nismo extended studs, I came across a little problem.
With the wheel off, I started hammering away at one of the studs... but it refused to budge. At that point I hadn't yet taken the caliper/rotor off, but shouldn't the stud still be able to move back and forth a little?
Should I just hammer harder (buy a bigger hammer), or would I risk damaging the hub/bearing?

Also, is there a way for me to remove the dust shield without cutting anything? that is, if I take the hub off, will the dustshield come easily off as well, or will I have more problems there?

Thanks!

adey

*ahem*... maybe I should repeat that a little louder.

Seriously. Are the stock studs spot welded at the back? Is it unsafe to just hammer them out while still on the car? I live in an apartment complex, and don't have access to any fancy tools like a press or even a vice...

Franks!

zweebach

I just replaced all my studs this morning with the Nismo 60mm studs. From start to finish, it took me 90 minutes. I used a 2 - 3lb ball peen hammer to knock the old studs out. They came out really easily for me. 5 or so smacks for each and they were on the ground. I took off the caliper and rotor though. Don't wanna mess anything up by hitting those.
You might have had a problem with having the rotor and caliper on because the rotor might have been binding the studs - or at least adding some force to them.

In my experience, the screws for the dust sheild are somewhat tenacious, so I wouldn't even bother with it. But if you want it off, you can always try.

adey

so did you mean that you unbolted the hub and hammered them out, or did you hammer them out of the hub while still bolted to the car?
As for the dust shield, I plan on running brake ducts, so I'll be trying to take those off as well.
Thanks for the help!

p_action

studs are pressed in ... so depending on the age of your car the metal can get a little tougher to budge out of there...be patient...remove all the stuff necassary to get out of the way...caliper, rotor, etc...and just pound them out!

zweebach

With the hubs on the car, I hammered them out. I sprayed some PB Blaster on each one before I started, not sure if that made a big difference, but it might.

Oh yeah, when I said "all," I meant all the front studs.

allmotorKA

If you want to press the studs out you can without removing the hub. I used a deep socket (can't remember the size but it was big enough for the stud to pass into) and a 4" C-clamp. The C-clamp was used to press the old stud stud out. The deep socket was used between the head of the stud and the C-clamp.

adey

Okay I just got out from under my car... I was able to get the front studs out easily, but the rear studs... wow, those things are REALLY pressed in there! I couldn't get them out no matter how hard and how many times I smacked them.

Have any of you removed the rear studs with just a hammer/mallet and some force, or is there some sort of special trick to dislodging the rears?

adey

help? ... :embarrassed:

Dousan_PG

use some more elbow grease man!
cars old, gets rust. juice up the back of the stud w/ some liquid wrench and get to work.

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adey

haha I did that already!... I gues it's time to buy a bigger mallet.

s13guy

I have to do this mod as well in the next couple weeks. Where did you all purchase your Nismo studs? How much do they cost how much longer are these than stock? I was going to run with Moroso cause I can get them locally but then I need a machinist to open up the hub holes a little bit meaning extra cost.

adey

I got mine through courtesynissan.com -- good guys with great service. studs are pricey though, at $8 PER stud... but they're genuine nismo studs, and are available in either 50mm or 60mm lengths. Stock is about 42mm.

I went with the 60mm studs, figuring that I could use the extra 10mm (planned on running 10mm sandwich spacers and I figured it'd be better safe than running out of stud) easily.... however, what I didn't figure in was how much "extra" stud there'd be if I only ran 5mm (or no-) spacers. Now the wheel center caps don't fit, as the studs are too long. Haha... but they don't look TOO bad.

That said, I'd recommend getting 50mm studs if you plan on running only 10mm sandwich spacers max, or get the 60mm studs if you're running 10mm spacers (max I'd go for sandwich style) with thick wheels and extended lug nuts.

killjoy

I also got these studs from Courtesy. I bought the 60mm cause I needed them to clear z brakes with a 10mm spacer. They work great. I thought they would stick out too fat but 50 would not have been enough and my lug nuts cover up the length anyway. Also, that heat shiled comes off when you take off the all of the stuff in front. I cut off one before realizing this. Take off the hub (that damned cotter pin sucks!) and then you can bang it off with a hammer.

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rancid240

I had the rotor and caliper off when i hammered out my old studs from the rear. just took some balls i guess.

s13guy

so how are you guys putting them in? Are you just using a nut to pull them into place?

Also, how much sticks out when you run the 60mm? I have to go as hgh as a 15mm spacer to clear my brakes and I want to know if the 60mm's will leave enough thread to bolt the wheel on.

knightrider

it will depend on your wheel, and how much material it has between the mating surface to the rotor, and outer surface where the lugs go, pretty much, if you can get your wheels on now, with the stock studs(dont worry about clearing the brakes, try to install the wheels without the calipers on), then you will be fine with a 15 mm spacer, cuz the 60 mm studs will add 18mm, so you will have +3mm for you wheel to mount to.

s13guy

I like this guy, exact measurments... thanx, much appreciated.

knightrider

np, it was simple math, but hey, sum1 had to do it, and i guess i got the most sleep last night so, i was up for it.

s13guy

my dumb ass doesnt know how long the OEM ones are, but I guess its safe to say 42mm

adey

OEM are 42... Says so in our FSM. I will double check for you when I get my hands on my stock studs, though.