Oil cooler & filter relocation questions - Zilvia.net Forums | Nissan 240SX (Silvia) and Z (Fairlady) Car Forum

azsr20det · 04-10-2018, 04:43 PM

Midway into installing my oil cooler / filter relocation / temp & pressure sensors and had a few questions, basically im running the lines (all 10AN hoses) from block, to cooler, from cooler to relocated filter, back to block

My qustions are, with the 10 row oil cooler, and roughly 15ft of hose, about how much extra oil do I need? Stock s13 sr20det is 3.7 liters but obv with the cooler and hoses theres an increased capacity.

Also is the spot ive got the relocated filter at ok height wise? Or too high up, its on the pass side of the bay on the side of the fenderwell between the strut adjustment stuff and the intake manifold

And lastly can anyone with an oil filter relocation kit installed confirm I have the hoses running to the correct inlet/outlet on the filter holder thing? The 90degree hose is coming out of the cooler and into the filter and the straight fitting hose is the one that runs from the relocated filter back to the block (it goes from block then through cooler first, then to the filter with the sensors so i can see the post cooled temp and pressure then back to block) just want to make sure I dont have them flip flopped lol

azsr20det · 04-10-2018, 04:46 PM

Ok for some reason none of these image uploading sites are working and its really irritating lmao

*anti tyler* · 04-10-2018, 05:03 PM

you pictures are just god awfully confusing, you have like 3 different catch cans under the hood and lines that don't appear to be connected to anything.

The lines from the block to the relocation kit, those go to the bottom of the sandwich plate/ so it looks like their going into the bottom of the oil filter.

The lines to the cooler go into the side of the sandwich plate. Pump cleaned oil through the cooler, not dirty.

with those lines/cooler, you're looking at like an extra 1-1.75 quarts of oil.

Just being honest, but running a line that long through the driver side... A bit ridiculous

di-devol · 04-10-2018, 06:05 PM

you know what.

nevermind.

azsr20det · 04-10-2018, 10:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by anti tyler

you pictures are just god awfully confusing, you have like 3 different catch cans under the hood and lines that don't appear to be connected to anything.

The lines from the block to the relocation kit, those go to the bottom of the sandwich plate/ so it looks like their going into the bottom of the oil filter.

The lines to the cooler go into the side of the sandwich plate. Pump cleaned oil through the cooler, not dirty.

with those lines/cooler, you're looking at like an extra 1-1.75 quarts of oil.

Just being honest, but running a line that long through the driver side... A bit ridiculous

Catch cans were the prior owners doing, theres oil and coolant, they were moved for the moment to do other work, as for the longer line i can easily shorten it and reroute, but I cant extend. When i purchased it the first time was too short so i got extra long.

Kingtal0n · 04-10-2018, 07:34 PM

how are you planning to close the hood,

and why is it yellow

also those lines cause more problems than they are worth. Plenty of engines starved for oil pressure because of poor hose. If you can crush the line with a pliers, it isn't suitable.

The line you want to plumb a relocation with you can lay an engine on it and it barely squishes down.

Also, short as possible. The oil pump is not infinite, you know. Longer hose, longer wait, more pressure drop, less flow at the same pressure, more wear and tear, fewer mileage, less fun. I would eliminate any relocation without an accumulator/accusump.

azsr20det · 04-10-2018, 10:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kingtal0n

how are you planning to close the hood,

and why is it yellow

also those lines cause more problems than they are worth. Plenty of engines starved for oil pressure because of poor hose. If you can crush the line with a pliers, it isn't suitable.

The line you want to plumb a relocation with you can lay an engine on it and it barely squishes down.

Also, short as possible. The oil pump is not infinite, you know. Longer hose, longer wait, more pressure drop, less flow at the same pressure, more wear and tear, fewer mileage, less fun. I would eliminate any relocation without an accumulator/accusump.

Hood: see prior post, luckily i have these tools called hands that are ideal for moving things to do other things.

Color of hood, i dunno; old car, dirt,

Hoses are automotive grade steel braided hoses. I had to order a special pair of cutters to trim the edges clean due to thickness. They just painted sparkly gold because i wanted all the parts i did to be loud and colorful. The whole inside is carbon and neo chrome. Custom carbon not stickers and overlay pieces

*afishysilvia* · 04-11-2018, 12:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kingtal0n

and why is it yellow

It got sunburnt from all that gold

azsr20det · 04-10-2018, 10:31 PM

What happened here? Maybe im misunderstanding, but it seems like I posted some very straightforward questions about what is obviously a nowhere near finished work in progress, intentionally loudly and over the top styled car that may not be everyones image of an ideal 240, but is mine and the look I wanted just for the fun as its just a almost 30 year old car i built as a toy not a perfect restoration or even your everyday track beater,
And the response while answering some questions seemed to be highly infused with spite and completely unfounded negative criticism of things that have little to no relevance to the questions presented all of which have obvious explinations or solutions to, like the color of the underside of the hood? Wtf is that? The quality of the hoses, all of whitch are clearly fitted with automotive AN connectors (which take special hoses designed for this exact application that are in fact far superior in strength and durability when compared to literally any factory hose), catch can placement when i was clearly midway through the install of things in their common, would-be positions otherwise? Why? What made you decide to say hey, this guy asked a question, lets throw some hate at whatever possible.

azsr20det · 04-11-2018, 01:42 AM

Ill also add the 2 lines by the trunk are not connected to anything yet as I wanted to find out how much oil i need before i drain it, pull the filter off, put the adapter plate on, and the actually run and connect the hoses. They just hanging loose because they arent attached yet

*anti tyler* · 04-11-2018, 04:43 AM

I believe I already answered your questions, no?

You're welcome to ask more if you don't understand

dwnshft2drft · 04-11-2018, 12:00 PM

Don’t you have a dip stick? This is the easiest to find out how much oil you add above 3.7L from recommended oil capacity. Keep a record how much oil you added and also how much oil you drain during oil change. Not all oil in the lines and coil cooler drain out of the pan. It will be better if you keep the lines shorter. If incase most oil drips down the oil pan by gravity then try your best to slope your lines down to the oil pan. Just a little help might help here.

*TheRealSy90* · 04-11-2018, 02:41 PM

Lines, by the trunk?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

*anti tyler* · 04-11-2018, 04:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TheRealSy90

Lines, by the trunk?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

He's talking about the line that isn't attached to anything. The one on the passenger side next to the firewall

Jfornachon · 05-08-2018, 03:50 PM

Why the hell is the oil cooler in front of your intercooler. You want as little heat in that air charge as possible. The heat is going to go right into the cooler. You will be surprised how much the cooler will cool the oil even in a dead air flow space. And damn, all those lines are WAY to damn long.

04-10-2018, 04:43 PM	#1
azsr20det Leaky Injector Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: az Posts: 148 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	Oil cooler & filter relocation questions Midway into installing my oil cooler / filter relocation / temp & pressure sensors and had a few questions, basically im running the lines (all 10AN hoses) from block, to cooler, from cooler to relocated filter, back to block My qustions are, with the 10 row oil cooler, and roughly 15ft of hose, about how much extra oil do I need? Stock s13 sr20det is 3.7 liters but obv with the cooler and hoses theres an increased capacity. Also is the spot ive got the relocated filter at ok height wise? Or too high up, its on the pass side of the bay on the side of the fenderwell between the strut adjustment stuff and the intake manifold And lastly can anyone with an oil filter relocation kit installed confirm I have the hoses running to the correct inlet/outlet on the filter holder thing? The 90degree hose is coming out of the cooler and into the filter and the straight fitting hose is the one that runs from the relocated filter back to the block (it goes from block then through cooler first, then to the filter with the sensors so i can see the post cooled temp and pressure then back to block) just want to make sure I dont have them flip flopped lol

04-10-2018, 06:05 PM	#4
di-devol Zilvia FREAK! Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Woodinville Age: 39 Posts: 1,412 Trader Rating: (5) Feedback Score: 5 reviews	you know what. nevermind. __________________

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04-10-2018, 04:46 PM	#2
azsr20det Leaky Injector Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: az Posts: 148 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	Ok for some reason none of these image uploading sites are working and its really irritating lmao

04-10-2018, 07:34 PM	#6
Kingtal0n Post Whore! Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: South Florida Age: 38 Posts: 4,649 Trader Rating: (17) Feedback Score: 17 reviews	how are you planning to close the hood, and why is it yellow also those lines cause more problems than they are worth. Plenty of engines starved for oil pressure because of poor hose. If you can crush the line with a pliers, it isn't suitable. The line you want to plumb a relocation with you can lay an engine on it and it barely squishes down. Also, short as possible. The oil pump is not infinite, you know. Longer hose, longer wait, more pressure drop, less flow at the same pressure, more wear and tear, fewer mileage, less fun. I would eliminate any relocation without an accumulator/accusump.

04-10-2018, 10:31 PM	#9
azsr20det Leaky Injector Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: az Posts: 148 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	What happened here? Maybe im misunderstanding, but it seems like I posted some very straightforward questions about what is obviously a nowhere near finished work in progress, intentionally loudly and over the top styled car that may not be everyones image of an ideal 240, but is mine and the look I wanted just for the fun as its just a almost 30 year old car i built as a toy not a perfect restoration or even your everyday track beater, And the response while answering some questions seemed to be highly infused with spite and completely unfounded negative criticism of things that have little to no relevance to the questions presented all of which have obvious explinations or solutions to, like the color of the underside of the hood? Wtf is that? The quality of the hoses, all of whitch are clearly fitted with automotive AN connectors (which take special hoses designed for this exact application that are in fact far superior in strength and durability when compared to literally any factory hose), catch can placement when i was clearly midway through the install of things in their common, would-be positions otherwise? Why? What made you decide to say hey, this guy asked a question, lets throw some hate at whatever possible.

04-11-2018, 01:42 AM	#10
azsr20det Leaky Injector Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: az Posts: 148 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	Ill also add the 2 lines by the trunk are not connected to anything yet as I wanted to find out how much oil i need before i drain it, pull the filter off, put the adapter plate on, and the actually run and connect the hoses. They just hanging loose because they arent attached yet

04-11-2018, 12:00 PM	#12
dwnshft2drft Zilvia Addict Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: 3 stars n a sun Posts: 673 Trader Rating: (28) Feedback Score: 28 reviews	Don’t you have a dip stick? This is the easiest to find out how much oil you add above 3.7L from recommended oil capacity. Keep a record how much oil you added and also how much oil you drain during oil change. Not all oil in the lines and coil cooler drain out of the pan. It will be better if you keep the lines shorter. If incase most oil drips down the oil pan by gravity then try your best to slope your lines down to the oil pan. Just a little help might help here.

05-08-2018, 03:50 PM	#15
Jfornachon Zilvia Junkie Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: Caldwell Idaho Posts: 300 Trader Rating: (3) Feedback Score: 3 reviews	Why the hell is the oil cooler in front of your intercooler. You want as little heat in that air charge as possible. The heat is going to go right into the cooler. You will be surprised how much the cooler will cool the oil even in a dead air flow space. And damn, all those lines are WAY to damn long.