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Engine Tech Technical discussion related to all relevant engines such as KA, SR, RB, CA, 2JZ , L24/26/28, VG, VQ, and LSx series. |
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01-25-2010, 05:25 AM | #1 |
Leaky Injector
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Start up problem service engine soon light
I went to warm up my car this morning and as soon as I started it up it was running a little bit rough, mildly shaky. The service engine soon light was on and after letting it run for a couple minutes it didn't change, I tried to give it a gentle rev and it didn't really want to so I shut it down. The car was running fine yesterday the only difference I can tell was the weather. It went frk
about 36 to 51 degrees this morning. I checked the oil yesterday and the level was fine but it seemed a bit dark but wasn't chaned very long ago any ideas? It's an sr20 black top |
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01-25-2010, 05:55 AM | #3 |
Leaky Injector
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I don't want to drive the car. Towing it to get the codes read would be a stretch and I don't know if there is a way I can find the code on my own with out a reader.
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01-25-2010, 08:05 AM | #6 |
Man w/ CTSV & a Car Seat
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Pull the code out...you can do this shit on your own, where the car is at. Get to the ECU on the passenger side kick board, there should be a screw switch on there. Turn the car to ON (dont start it), turn the screw all the way clock wise then back. The check engine light on the dash will start blinking. Count how many slow blinks and fast blinks it does. Slow blinks will be the first digit of the code and the fast blink will be the 2nd digit. So if it blinks slow 5 times and blinks fast 3 times...then its giving you a code 53. Make sure you get all the codes, sometimes you'd have more than just one code.
When you get all the code, turn the screw clockwise and back again to take it out of diagnostic mode. |
01-25-2010, 08:54 AM | #7 | |
Leaky Injector
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Quote:
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01-25-2010, 10:05 AM | #8 |
Man w/ CTSV & a Car Seat
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READ THE FUCKING CHECK ENGINE LIGHT CODE!!! That will narrow it down faster than anything else anybody can fucking tell you what it could be. You asked for help, were giving you the fastest way to diagnose it...
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01-25-2010, 01:05 PM | #9 | |
Leaky Injector
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Quote:
Now what. This is what I've gone over so far with some people: 740cc injectors z32 maf I'm hearing too much fuel for stock turbo so letting it idle too much will soak the plugs. The plugs were toasted. I replaced them. White ish and now blue ish smoke is coming out of the exhaust... I disconnected the battery to see if it would come out of safe mode to burn some of that excess fuel. No dice, CEL was still on and nothing changed after new plugs. Disconnect of the battery, there is no coolant anywhere either. If someone looked in the engine bay they would see a nice and clean engine bay. I don't know what would be wrong. As of last night at 7-8pm the car was running great I woke up and it was 51 degrees and it was running like shit. It starts fine, idles consistently at 1k but its rough, it doesnt want to rev almost like it's breathing through a straw. I personally have not put it through any trouble. Air fuel I've seen the past few days was 10.8-12.2 and 11.2-12.7 At idle the air fuel is frigging 14.7 and I have no idea why it would be. The car has 700 miles on it since the build and is very well put together now it's running like shit. The ECU is tuned for 93 octane but I didn't find that out until I had already put 92 at an alleged crappy gas station in it but I've gone through half a tank with no problems until now. I'm leaving nothing out. |
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01-25-2010, 06:24 PM | #10 |
Man w/ CTSV & a Car Seat
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Ign set to on (engine not running), turn the screw all the way clock wise, hold it there for a second or 2, then turn it all the way back counter clockwise. I've had Entalphy rom tuned ECU, I have pulled codes off it before so I dont see why yours would be different.
Double check the maf and make sure plug is in all the way. Then check for leaks on the intercooler couplers. |
01-25-2010, 07:19 PM | #11 |
Leaky Injector
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Problem figured out. By the way it is an S14 Black top so I can't check the led anyways.
Whats going on: I have no heat and drove the car in the rain, the tiny hole where the climate control WAS in the firewall allowed my ECU goodies to get wet. This allowed my fuel pump to not shut it self of properly and was constantly dumping fuel. Pig rich because of lowered boost + 740cc injectors so I was fouling plugs left and right. The fuel issue forced the check engine light to be on. I have to let it dry out a little bit and put the heat back in it and I should have no more problems and things will be back to normal. We figured this out once we got the fuel pump to start acting normal for a few brief periods after realizing it was drying out a little it ran like a top. I took the ECU out and some other related stuff inside to dry off a bit more and I will be putting the heat back in with a friend this weekend and things should be back to normal. No more smoking, no more excessive fuel burning. |
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