dzlpwr

Just got the sr out of my hatch and into my coupe and now running. It idles fine and free revs fine but under even 1/2-3/4 throttle it will start misfiring and sputtering real badly to the point where I just let out. No boost leaks and MAF plug is good and everything... also if I stay super light on the throttle I CAN get it to rev up all the way but just have to be real light on the throttle. Threw new plugs in it today to see if it would help but no go on that. Pretty much a stock sr with just an exhuast and a PBM mid-mount with no bov. Any help would be great cause I'm trying to get this thing running right and on the track pretty soon!! Thanks!

traxx07

Sounds like the fuel pump. Check that and the fuel filter to make sure it's getting the right pressure it needs. Especially under boost.

Have had this happen on a lot of SR's then just popped in the Walbro and viola!

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dzlpwr

Has a walbro in it already with all brand new fuel lines and a brand new fuel filter... so I doubt its that but no way to know for sure??

dzlpwr

sorry for the dumb question but whats the best way to check the fuel pressure??

Krewlkid

timing and tps, set back 15* and .45
had the same problem a little while ago

dzlpwr

.45v for the tps? and was going to do the timing today until the valvecover nuts didn't want to come off so I guess I have to figure that bs out first. I feel like its a timing issue but I won't lie, I am new to sr's

nassin31spr

Timing and check the spark plugs, gap exc. It could also be a boost leak or faulty maf sensor or wiring. Make sure you pressurize the intercooler piping. Just because the couples are tight dosent mean they are not leaking.

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rb25_s13*CHUKI

Do u have a boost gauge? that would help see if it's a boost leak but it would have to be pretty bad to do that for a boost leak so the gauge will def let you know if it's that. If it's a small boost leak the gauge might drop like 1 psi vacuum but that won't make it sputter like that.

Check the plugs and the gap, change the fuel filter, Post a picture of how the cas is positioned and if u can post pics of the cam timing before you make any changes, also could possibly be the maf but most times a bad maf wont let you rev past 3.5k could be messing up though,

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rb25_s13*CHUKI

P.s no offence but Pbm mid mount is a waste of money and hurts cooling on your car.

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sdrmiami

CAS... replace it and your good to go..

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dzlpwr

Guess I'm going to check the timing... just have to deal with getting the valvecover nuts off because it seems like most of them just want to spin and the nuts don't want to come off... I'll take some pics of how everything's set up when I get it apart. and as far as the maf, it will rev past 3500 fine just under light throttle. And like I sad it free revs no problem

cbcm2435

do you make a smoke screen when it starts misfiring under boost? mine was doing that and i had two cracked ignition coils, just something to check. also check you ignition harness for cuts and splices, mine had like 8

dzlpwr

Coilpacks didn't looked cracked or anything, and the harness is all good. It's a fresh harness, and no it doesn't seem to really smoke or anything

codyace

If it idles and you free rev does it rev fine?

And it only breaks up underboost or load?

I'd recheck to make sure you don't have vacuum leaks.

If the CAS was bad it would have a hard time starting/running, if the MAF was bad it would be in limp mode/throw a code/not start

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dzlpwr

Yes, it free revs fine. sometimes it will break up or pop a little while free revving it but for the most part it will free rev all the way up no problem at all.

KiLLeR2001

Probably coilpacks. When one of mine went I would only have issues past 4.5k, not noticeable when free-reving either, only when in boost. Also check your plugs its a good indication of whats going on.

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dzlpwr

put new plugs in. The plugs that were in there actually didn't look bad... maybe a little black/burnt if anything but they really weren't bad

KiLLeR2001

Stock SR plug gap is 0.036". But like I said, it's most likely a bad coilpack.

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dzlpwr

whats the best way to actually test a coilpack without just throwing parts at the car?

KiLLeR2001

It's hard to test if it only happens under load... If you had a rough idle you could unplug each coilpack individually until the one you unplug results in no change.

Luckily for me I had a friend with a good set of coilpacks so I switched mine with his, drove my car around and no more sputtering / misfiring. Handed him back his coilpacks put mine in drove home and ordered a set for myself.

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dzlpwr

Ok. Yeah it idles clean and I tried unplugging each (had my buddy hold it at like 1500rpm) and could hear a difference after unplugging each one. So if they are bad it must only be under load

Asuka

A friend of mine was having the same problem, so we changed the fuel pump and filter at first and it didn't help. Later on we changed the fuel pressure regulator and that fixed it right up.

steve shadows

You need to check the resistance of each coil pack with a ohm meter or volt meter set to ohms. Check for consistency between each coil pack if one is way off then that's the bad one in most cases.

Also make sure your coil pack harness is grounded properly to the back of the head and the firewall. This is very important as well.

Make sure your plugs are gaped at .030 or lower for under boost

Check your CAS wiring and plug make sure there are no wiring shorts for sign to the TPS, the CAS the coil packs or the MAF. Check your MAF condition as well.
Check for boost leaks.

A lot of things can cause a break up under load on our cars.

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dzlpwr

Thanks for the advice guys! hopefully I can look into it more this weekend. I'm gonna check the TPS, clean the MAF, set the idle up perfect, gap the plugs, and then test the coil packs and see if I can get anywhere with this thing...

steve shadows

Be sure to actually check the wiring out. I am leaning towards wiring.

It's almost always some dumb wiring issue or bad wiring harness on S chassis.

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dzlpwr

I'll double check the ground for the coilpacks but the wiring harness was just re-done professionally and the car had the same problem before the harness was re-done. So I'm assuming its not wiring related. Basically I had this motor in my hatch for awhile then put it in my coupe but with a re-done harness and a painless chassis harness so my wiring is pretty simple.

HIGHFIVEBETA

Story of my life.. Does the sputtering increase once you up the boost more?

dzlpwr

It gets real bad as soon as it gets into the boost so I just let out... not like Im driving it far anyways... just around the neighborhood testing it out cause its a not registered or insured track car...

johnbureezu

Did you ever figure out what the problem was? I have a very similar situation with my SR.

gostrider

Bump me too

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