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S Chassis Technical discussion related to the S Chassis such as the S12, S13, S14, and S15. |
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05-27-2018, 09:03 PM | #1 |
Introductory/my current issue
How’s it going fellas(and gals). My names Joseph, i own a 93 240sx, 94 civic, and a 83 Volvo wagon(HELL YEAH BROTHER). Currently swapping a sr20det into the s-chassis. Little background of the car; i traded a pickup for it and did the deal at night. Horrible decision. Brought it home, found the misfire was a lot worse than i thought. Pulled the head and the cyl. Walls were PITTED to hell. Trashed the motor and got a sr.
Now the car had a s14 ka in it and the moron who put it in left none of the original wiring besides the taillights wires. So everything got hard wired with switches. I’m fairly sound when it comes to mechanics but this wiring has been a train wreck for me. Battery is in the back with a battery shut up at the dash basically as a “key” then goes to the starter. Now I will be the first to admit i don’t understand a thing about wiring and this is where i need help. I got a wiring specialties pro harness with a patch harness. Got the harness on but need to know. Excuse my lack of common sense for basic wiring. 1. The harness came with a charge line that’s for the starter to the alt., is that supplying the alt with 12v and the sense line is what goes back to the battery to charge? If so I’ll have to splice in the harness to run sense line back, correct? If so what gauge you recommend for that. 2. When it comes to my switch panel, am i better off buying a ez wiring kit and running my acc. Threw that then to the switches? Or any better recommendations. 3. My fuel pump needs wiring up, i have a basic idea on how to but when running it to a switch what is the process of that. I do have an entire chassis harness i got out a junked 240 but would like to run as little as wires as possible and not have to fish all that back threw especially since I’m not using the good ole electric seatbelts, stereo system, ac/heat, and anything else practically. Besides lights, wipers, fans, and fuel pump(obvi) but would still like to have a decent wiring setup and not homedepots thhn wiring all threw the car. I have an apexi boost controller and safc that’ll need wiring which is pretty straight forward. Excuse my mumbling on, just getting as much as i can out to help you get my situation. I have some other things that need working out but for now that’ll be some help. Again my apologies for the stupidity of this, the searching has just gone to long and found diagrams that help but haven’t found the answers I’m necessarily looking for. Help would be great. Ignorance is also welcomed as i know it’ll come. Thanks guys. Last edited by YourWifesBox; 05-29-2018 at 07:03 AM.. |
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05-29-2018, 07:05 AM | #2 |
Seriously nothing? I know some of you are thinking well if you have no knowledge then don’t try it but this is where I’m trying to learn so for the future I’ll be sound. Thanks guys.
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05-29-2018, 01:00 PM | #3 |
Zilvia FREAK!
Join Date: Jun 2010
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Well, the charge line is just to power the starter. Run normal wire for the alt from the battery, then the charge wire goes from the alt to the starter.
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05-29-2018, 01:30 PM | #4 |
Well according to wiring specialties this charge cable runs from starter+ to the alternator+. But like i mentioned, the previous owner ran a battery cable from the back to the dash, which there is a cutoff which acts as a key. Then from the cutoff to the starter+. If there is a battery cable that runs to the starter+ and that charge cable runs from the starters+ to alt+ wouldn’t that essentially power the alt. Then I’d send a line back to the battery from the alt to charge it..?
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05-29-2018, 02:14 PM | #6 |
I know, I’ve considered that. Also a reason why i went out and got a full chassis harness but instead of fishing that through I’d like to try and keep as minimal of wires as possible but if i can’t get help with what i have then I’m gonna have to.
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06-02-2018, 07:59 AM | #7 |
So got ahold of WS. They said the charge cable from the alt output to the starter+ is to charge the battery. I have a battery cable going from the back to the starter, so with that being said is that my return for the battery? The “sense line” In the plug is what provides the alt with 12v. To sum it up, would all i need to do is run a battery cable to a 80amp fuse then to the “sense line” and it should start correct?
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06-02-2018, 02:01 PM | #8 |
Post Whore!
Join Date: Jul 2005
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Usually alternator power wire runs into the factory fuse box, through a fuse, to the battery positive. It might do some other weird stuff along the way, I don't ever deal with whats inside the fuse box on an S14 (I know yours is s13 so I'm not sure what all is different there). I can't even get the thing open to be honest. It LOOKS like it just pulls apart but everytime I've tried its stumped me.
Anyways... My solution for you is simply revert all wires back to original. Get a complete uncut harness from another member for the same exact year vehicle. Do the chassis harness first of course. The engine harness is easy cake, don't even sweat that for now. It should look something like this 1. alt + to fuse box 2. Battery to starter (You should put a 120-170 amp fuse in this if relocated to the rear) 3. fuse box to starter (smaller starter wire is start 12v from ignition switch) 4. Battery to fuse box (for all the in-car lights and stuff) Alternators and ignition switches can act funny if you screw with the wiring. The alt's 12v output can keep the engine running if the 12v is supplied improperly. You should be able to take the battery out of the car with the engine still running, and you should still be able to turn off the engine with the key. |
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240sx, s13, sr20det, wiring |
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