epedomic

hey guys, im new here and tried to avoid making a new thread as much as possible but couldnt get much help from google so lets hear it!

I am trying to get suggestions on a good conservative tune for my sr20. This would be used for daily driving with some occasional sprinted driving. My future plans for the engine would be a built internals+ larger turbo(gt2871r preferably) of course suited with larger injectors, maf, ect...
But... for now i am mainly running stock and want to see if theres any good items to run a stock tune until i build the engine later on. (probably in a couple years)
here are some of the mods i have
blacktop sr20det e62 ecu

greddy fmic
tial 52mm bov
3' down pipe
aeromotive fpr
walboro 255 pump
i am also installing an innovate wideband gauge as well as an aem tru boost gauge next week (on its way here)
plus im having a shop install a competition clutch stage 2 w/ flywheel

everything else is pretty much stock(stock t25 turbo, maf,injectors,internals,ect...), so what tune if any would be practical for this dd?
i have an apexi safc2 but ive heard their garbage so not sure on using this.
ive also looked into getting a piggyback tune, rom tune, or fc power.
ive heard bad things running on a piggyback for this car, but great things on a rom tune.
dont know much about the fc power.

could you guys please fill me in on what im missing?
any other engine mods to make this a reliable dd, any more sensors? what type of tune?
i should also mention i just gave my engine a complete tune up, including new plugs, fresh fluids, new battery w/ stabilizer, quest alt. upgrade, new waterpump. so i think shes fresh for a good tune, what do you guys think?
thanks!

fliprayzin240sx

If its stock and planning on leaving it stock for a while, why the hell would you need a tune? Leave it at stock boost, stick with the stock ECU, run 93 octane gas and leave it the fuck alone.

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epedomic

yeah, i was just checking to see if theres any other programs or items that would help conserve its reliability.
but naw, tuning wont be necessary here.
i actually just got my aem tru boost and innovate mtx wudeband today so that should be plenty enough.

feel free to post yalls engine mods w/ tunes for future reference.
i would like to get some opinions and examples to help with my build. thanks

epedomic

and actually, its not running stock boost. the guy i bought it from said it was tuned to 10psi so im leaving it at that for now.
although this would totally blow my turbo in a year or so with it being my dd, good thing i just got my tru boost

Highway Riding

How bout the JDM speed limit?

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fliprayzin240sx

Dont speed and save yourself a ticket?

But how is the car "tuned for 10 psi" now?

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epedomic

well this is what i was told by the previous owner but im sure he just meant the manual boost controller is "tuned" to 10psi. i dont really have much aftermarket items that would be tuneable on a mostly stock engine.

and yeah i never (well,almost never) speed in this thing or beat it.
i want to be able to though reliably, thats why i was asking if a tune would be necessary.

anyways, i got it figured out. thanks for everyones input (even though some of you guys sound dickish ah)
feel free to post your mods/tune for your sr20. thanks everyone

Highway Riding

Dang man no fawkin fun!

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bunny13

Not beating the shit out of it usually works pretty well

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fliprayzin240sx

He cranked the boost but the engine is not tweaked or tuned to make up for the extra air. Well, best reliability mod you can do at this point is NOT to run 10 psi on it.

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bunny13

Take that manual boost controller out and run the car solely on the wastegate spring. Boom. Done.

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Synergy

i think your confused so let me try to help.


1st. SAFC( super air flow converter) this manipulates the MAF signal to ecu. It adjust fuel and thats about it. No timing no other adjustments.
1 out of 10 this is a 1

2. Rom tune. These work pretty well using a burned in rom. They are sometimes a little tricky to get to work right and the support isnt very good.... They do allow you to change different parameters of the engine timing fuel pulse width Etc.
I have had good and bad luck with these. I wont run them but if it works then its just as effective as nistune.

3. Nistune/nismotronic These are somewhat similar to a romtune but they are more of a live tuner and also these two have pretty good support and are generally a good choice if your on somewhat of a budget. I run nistune in my personal car. You can adjust all parameters of the engine just like a rom tune. The resolution is generally better than a rom tune.

4. Standalone. These allow you do to basicly everything nistune/nismotronic can do AND more. They can adjust fuel maps timing and either MAF or MAP based. they have some cool features with much better resolution.


IMO

I run nistune but would use nismotronic for sure due to MAP if I had to do it again. Your not looking for enough power to need MAP so use either or.

As far as reliability is concerned thats more on YOU than your tune or your car. Change all your fluids do sparkplugs check the turbo for play check for boost leaks change the fuel filter and other general maintnence items. Thats more important that 10 psi or 7 psi if its tuned correctly.

These tunes arnt like fast and furious though. These are software programs that allow you to change certain parameters. Not a tune. Big difference.

epedomic

hell yeah, thanks Synergy. thats all the info i needed.

and yeah i will be taking off the mbc in place of an aem tru boost.
and i do maintenance the vehicle regularly. thanks for all the help

4x4le

Dont get a true boost, freaken garbage. As a matter of fact dont run a boost controller without a tune. Take off the mbc and just hook the vac line strait to the wastegate like suggested and run it stock.

If you ever get a boost controller just get a greddy boost controller. Stay away from the one with the screen as it is only marginally better than the trueboost, I still consider it garbage.
The greddy with 3 knobs is where its at.
Or what I would do is not run one until you decide to get tuned. If you decide to go with something like nistune then get that greddy. If you decide to get an AEM standalone then get the boost control solenoid and let the AEM EMS control your boost.

epedomic

yeah i actually was looking into a greddy pro-ec b spec II one but i already have the tru boost. idk it seems convenient enough and definitely suitable for what im running. for future reference though, the ems would be the best to go with if you have that kind of $$

4x4le

You should get rid of the trueboost unless you like pulling over and getting out the instruction manual every time you want to run different boost levels. They are so stupid about adjusting them.

epedomic

is it really?
idk, the one i have comes with 2 output settings for boost (low and high)
as well as an additional "boost scramble" wire which allows you to momentarily adjust boost levels at the click of a button.

has anyone else encountered any issues with the tru boost?
imo, their a great cheap way to monitor boost levels while getting the benefit of a boost controller with it.

4x4le

Some will and some wont. I am a tuner and have tuned several stock setups. I have never seen a s13 sr want more than 12 psi and most only want 10psi even tuned. I think the ones that can take 12 is just because of a decrepancy on the gauges. I have had some have trouble fueling them even at 10psi and some seem to have more fuel if I needed it. Your advice may have worked for you and your friends but you need to be careful when giving blanket advice such as this as it may cost someone an engine when you were just trying to help.

Go ahead and use it compared to others and see what your opinion is. On paper they look outstanding and I wish they worked as good as they should and I would have one. The truth is they are terrible and I dread every car that comes through with them wanting a tune. Aem does standalones right. There standalones controll boost good, but I hate their widebands and boost controllers. I wouldnt even consider their ems for a while after seeing their widebands and boost controllers until I started getting some experience with ems and see that it is in fact nice.


Just be mindfull when you get advice online. Many people will say their stuff is good because it either worked for them once or because they paid good money for stuff and want to convince them selves that they didnt get ripped off.
There are other people like me that have no investment in the multiple different vehicles that Im able to come into contact with and I can see what kind of trouble different stuff causes and have no real reason to give credit to just stuff or stupid ways of doing things.

S13Vinny

hey man you seem to have actual experience so ima ask you, i have a s13 blacktop with 3 angle valve job, apexi metal HG, walbro 255, fmic, full exhuast, for more power i waas looking into getting a gt2871r journal bearing and running around 10psi for my daily, is this safe to run without a tune? the guy selling me the turbo said id be more then safe but then again he might just wanna sell the turbo

4x4le

sending you a pm

compactfean

The stock ecu will run your car just fine up to about 14psi! With a good.fuel pump and fuel pressure set to stock, you will run about 10.5 or so afr while wot. No need for a tune and will be super reliable.

epedomic

good stuff, ill adjust those here when i get a chance.
(car hasnt really been running lately, slipping clutch + partial engine rebuild and extra "security measures" for reliability, ill have her up pretty soon thoughm thanks!)

S13alldayyo

Sorry to bring this thread up but stock sr's are tuned till they max out injectors, then as more boost you add it starts leaning out, my atock sr20det does about 10.2 afr at wot at 7psi no tunning needed unless you want to lean out the afr to make more power or when upgrading injectors/maf when your tuned for a injector setup your tuned till they max (correct me on this if im wrong lol)

banker$14

imo the s13 Sr20 turbo dont have the strength to run past 12 or 13 psi with the t25 i know this becuse my buddy had that problem untill he got a t28 from a s14 sr20 and hit 15 psi

epedomic

this is true. i think the t25 top out at 14psi but should NEVER be pushed past 12.
as for the t28 i dont know what psi they top out on.

banker$14

im more into the response time of my engine or spool up time of my turbo, if you are hitting 300+ hp and olny running on 10 psi then you know your doing it right i build my engine first before i put down power it helps your engine live longer and then tune it. if the head was ported and polished then the power will increase with the same amount of psi, FYI if you didn't already know that

Magnoliarichj

Power fc djetro. Done and.... You can use it when you upgrade mod for mod