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Chat General Discussion About The Nissan 240SX and Nissan Z Cars |
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01-16-2012, 01:00 AM | #35 |
Zilvia Member
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[IMG]http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/ee379/kouki_drifter /IMG_0299.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/ee379/kouki_drifte /IMG_0276.jpg[/IMG] |
01-16-2012, 01:04 AM | #37 |
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look at this crap brand new oem crank pully got it like this from frsport looks like it had been dropped when it was being packaged at Nissan had to send it back this sucks! |
01-16-2012, 01:43 AM | #39 |
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heres a parts list so far
I'll start top to bottom Ngk level 7 plugs New oem lifters New oem rocker arms Hks ras Hks step 1 256 cams New cam sprocket Arp head n main studs 3 angle valve job New valve seals Port n polish Gasket match Decked the head Apexi multilayer head gasket New timing chain kit (chain guides tensioner sprockets gaskets) New oil pump New oil pump drive gear Nismo 65C thermostat Wiseco 86mm piston heads Eagle H-beam rods Acl main n rod bearings Full gasket kit Greddy oil pan Tomei expreme header New O2 sensor New oil pressure sensor Tomei turbo elbow Oem filter Arp fly wheel bolts Atc 6 puck clutch Nismo motor n tranny mount Braided turbo lines Greddy magnetic oil plug aline hone I think that's all of it I might have missed a few things but I'm right at about $6500 more or less |
01-16-2012, 12:27 PM | #42 |
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thanks guys i figured why even break it down if your gonna half ass it so i just went all the way! lol i got a loan and sed the hell with it lets do this! i got more pics coming i'll keep you updated on how its going and i'll probly post up a video of the first starts
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01-16-2012, 01:31 PM | #43 | |
Guild of Skullduggerous Intent
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Quote:
I know it's an old post and it probably doesn't matter at this point since it looks like you already put the motor together but for someone that reads this in the future: per FSM EM-94 Main bearing clearance Standard 0.004 - 0.022 (0.0002 - 0.0009) Limit 0.05 (0.0020) Connecting rod bearing clearance Standard 0.020 - 0.045 (0.0008 - 0.0018) Limit 0.065 (0.0026) also - there's no way to measure this type of tolerances with a caliper they're good on for ±.001" measurements - even though some people swear by plastigage, it isn't also the best way to do it the right way is to use calibrated micrometers and bore mics and to do it in a temperature controlled room (~70° to 74°) just my 2 cents, carry on |
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01-29-2012, 10:38 PM | #54 |
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255 miles so far still running strong been keeping the rpms at about 3000, ive taken it up to about 5000rpms for a couple seconds im sure thats ok right? ive also been engine breaking "down shifting to slow down" at every light and stop sign
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09-17-2015, 02:41 PM | #56 |
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well... i took it to a local shop for tuning i purchased an aem stand alone, and the tuner set my waste gate vac lines backwards so he was able to get 400hp 364 tq on 16.3lbs of boost he advanced the timing to much so it blew the head gasket. after that i bored 20 over polished and balanced my rotating assembly and was waiting to hit the 1000 mi mark to retune, but at about 700mi the car was running weird oil pressure was fluctuating so i changed it during the change i found that the crank thrust washer had fallen off the night before and the crank was walking i was so disgusted with it i pulled it out and went V8 i may have it up for sale soon if anyone is interested
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