S14DB

Quit fighting and tell me what parts I need to rebuild my tranny.

ace240sx

Here is a picture of how the baulk ring connects to the inner synchro gear, you obvisouly do not know how this works from what you have said above. Once the synchro has moved onto the baulk ring the gear is 1/2 engaged untill that freeplay is used up and then the synchro continues to move onto speed gear attached to the main gear. Grinding occurs when the synchro skips across the baulk rings teeth.


Here is a pic of my worn out sunchro and baulk ring from them grinding against each other, if you look closely the triangular peaks of the baulk ring and synchro are rounded off.


Now people for the sr20det tranny the machining is needed as follows: look at the first pic and see the gear that is surrounded by the gold baulk rings. This needs to be machined on one face only. Now it will depend on your tranny because it seems that each tranny has different spacers due to tolerances not being exact.


Look at this picture, see the face with the 4 slits in it, well that needs to be machined down so it is smooth and has no more slits on it. This is done for the SR tranny so you can replace the 3rd&4th synchro.

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ace240sx

S14DB what tranny do you have(SR or KA) what are the problems you are having?

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"we endorse beating kids faces in as soon as probation is over and we relocate back to so cal"

S14DB

I picked up a KA tranny used. It seems to go into gear fine. The input shaft has some in/out play to it. I would rather replace the syncros and seals then have it installed and have problems.

ace240sx

The in/out play is normal, because the input shaft isnt pressed on, it just rolls on a thrust bearing on the end of the mainshaft, and is positioned between two bearings on the mainshaft and secondary shaft, so it has some freeplay.

I would recommend you change the 1st&2nd synchro + baulk rings, 3rd&4th synchro and baulk rings, bearings if there is high km, but it is not neccessary. The 5th and reverse are usually not needed because they are not high wear parts.

I would order oem Nissan parts, not some off brand from china. You dont want to screw around, and cut corners with parts such as these. I would order them from courtesy-nissan.


Here is the schematic that courtesy-nissan uses
Specify what tranny you have and then you will need 32605S, 2x32604M, 32601S, 32604, 32604Q, these are the 1/2, 3/4 synchro assembly and baulk rings. Also when you order ask for the front/rear seals they are like $5 each.

__________________
"we endorse beating kids faces in as soon as probation is over and we relocate back to so cal"

S14DB

I was told it was a 98 with 70k. It's got the OBDII trigger on top. What's the est cost of these?

Do I need:
EXTENSION HOUSING SEAL
RING GEAR
Housing Bearing
Just random crap I saw listed...

kandyflip445

Lets stop the crap talking and try to get things straight.

You just have to understand powerflow through the manual transmission.

The power goes in the input shaft>the countershaft>the selected FLOATING speed gear>the syncro SLEEVE>the syncro HUB>which is splined to the outputshaft and out.

When you select a gear you're moving a shift fork that is wrapped around a SYNCRO SLEEVE. In your first picture on this page it would be the thing lying on the left. The syncro sleeve moves over the blocking ring, the inserts (which you left out in the pic, they go where the three grooves are around the syncro hub) push the blocking ring forcing it onto the FLOATING SPEED GEAR SHOULDER which is a cone shape fitting in the blocking ring. The blocking ring (the brass ring) has sharp grooves on the inside of it that make contact with the FLOATING SPEED GEAR SHOULDER bringing it up to speed. If you look on the second picture you can see the grooves I'm talking about. When contact is made and you slide it in gear the SYNCRONIZER SLEEVE goes over the BLOCKING RING and then over the FLOATING SPEED GEAR TEETH locking the floating gear to the SYNCRO HUB which is splined to the OUTPUT SHAFT.

The SYNCRO SLEEVE won't grind against the BLOCKING RING because they're one unit and the SYNCRO SLEEVE just slides over it. The SYNCRO SLEEVE grinds against the FLOATING SPEED GEAR when the BLOCKING RING is worn on the inside sharp grooves, not allowing it to come up to speed.

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My 240 vBgarage

kandyflip445

S14DB: You'll have to inspect everything when it's apart to determine what you need. You will need gaskets on the sealing surfaces that have one and you take apart. Vaseline is a good assembly lube because it will mix with the tranny fluid without harm. It holds bearings on the shafts well and inserts in place also. Post pictures up when you have the thing apart and make sure you have everything WELL organized.

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My 240 vBgarage

ace240sx

The 32605S sells for $53.22 and the 32601S is $ 88.63. Baulk rings are about $30.00 each, seals $5. I recommend changing what is specified above, do it properly the first time, and in the future you will be glad. So roughly $270.

__________________
"we endorse beating kids faces in as soon as probation is over and we relocate back to so cal"