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Old 10-16-2009, 12:08 AM   #61
DataXUnknown
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I hate people who hack up front bumpers.

Modded cars attract men.

Nice oem cars attract women.
Very well said.
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Old 10-16-2009, 12:31 AM   #62
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Pfff, what are you talking about. 240 owners are the kings of hacking up front bumpers, not to mention king of broken bumpers from drifter wanna be's, hahaha

OOOhhhhh, hope i didnt hit a nerve with that one. LOL.
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Old 10-16-2009, 12:51 AM   #63
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yeah those are sick numbers man. Definetly have to hit up san diego sometime. Yeah im still on stock axles. I dont think ill have to worry about breaking them though. I know how to properly preload the drivetrain when launching even on sticky slicks. When preloading properly you really dont have to worry about breaking them. Especially on the streets when all i do is spin anyways, But its fun. haha

Its people that dont preload that have problems due to the initial snap of the drivetrain locking into place. Thats what breaks stuff. I have plenty of experience and seat time that ive mastered it, haha
you can preload on a clutch that allows slipping but try that on a metallic twin disc, you're going to stall hah

i got to launch with at least 22psi to not bog which really isnt good for the turbo, thats why i bought a 100 shot which will be installing soon to hopefully solve my launching..

my best 60' is 1.54 so hopefully i can get it down a little with the 100 shot
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Old 10-16-2009, 01:02 AM   #64
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the twin disks still allow some slip if you hold it right. Again its all feel. Nice 60's btw. Whats your best e/t?

I usually preload at 4500 rpms or so, i may have to go a bit higher with the twin disk. I usually just let the clutch out until i feel the front end lock and dip down a bit and i know everything is good and tight. You dont have to put a lot of pressure on the drivetrain to lock everything up to prevent the initial snap. Probably even slightly letting up the clutch kind of like you would when your driving would lock everything tight instead of putting too much pressure on things.

But again it will take some feel im sure but ill do some practicing preloading before i actually go on the track to get used to where i need the clutch at to keep from stalling and that will allow me to put the pedal to the floor when the yellows fall without launching at the same time my foot is going to the floor.

I usually preload, yellows fall, foot the floor to bounce the rev limiter and down with the ebrake and dump the clutch at the same time it hits the limiter once. Ive got it timed pretty well by how fast my motor revs up. Its all getting used to it. My best 60ft to date is 1.68 on small 22X8X15 m/t slicks but they were new unlike the 7 year old taller slicks.

I think i may be able to get in the low 1.6's with these new 24.5X9X13 m/t's i got. haha. Set them to 8 psi or so and do a smokey 2nd gear burnout now that i will have a clutch to hold it, haha
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Old 10-17-2009, 01:24 AM   #65
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Well i spent the day cleaning up my engine bay with a freshly done Valve cover. Intake manifold fully installed with extended injector wiring and tps wiring for the Q45 throttle body so the wiring is nice and tied to the back of the engine block and on the firewall under the manifold making it very nice and clean.

Did Braided hose and Russell fittings for the new crankcase breather system and catch can. Also did Braided hose and -6 AN fittings for the idle air control hose by fitting the cold side pipe iac hose nipple with a fitting and the iac motor with a fitting.

Dont mind the bay. its dirty and thats what happens when you work in a dirt lot. All im waiting to get the car back on the road is to do a swap in a 240 to get the rest of the money for my Clutchmasters Twin Disk and Rear case for the B15 trans that im swapping the B15 1.8 gearstack into to basicly have a P11 trans. Its coming along. I will be rerouting the right-side breather hose and using a 90 deg fitting and running it in front of the injectors by shortening the hose a bit to make it a bit cleaner.

Once done i will detail the bay and take some new pics. Im also making a nice plate for the front to cover the opening from where the support was cut out.

Here are the pics:

















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Old 10-17-2009, 02:46 AM   #66
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very nice wire tucking, i plan to spend a few days in the winter doing that myself...

is that a dog bone under your car in the last pic?
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Old 10-17-2009, 09:06 AM   #67
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lol, no its the bottom part of a foot stool, hahaha I was using it to hold the motor up while i save up for the clutch, haha.

Now im using a spare jack i had.
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Old 10-17-2009, 12:22 PM   #68
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ashtonroche View Post
the twin disks still allow some slip if you hold it right. Again its all feel. Nice 60's btw. Whats your best e/t?

I usually preload at 4500 rpms or so, i may have to go a bit higher with the twin disk. I usually just let the clutch out until i feel the front end lock and dip down a bit and i know everything is good and tight. You dont have to put a lot of pressure on the drivetrain to lock everything up to prevent the initial snap. Probably even slightly letting up the clutch kind of like you would when your driving would lock everything tight instead of putting too much pressure on things.

But again it will take some feel im sure but ill do some practicing preloading before i actually go on the track to get used to where i need the clutch at to keep from stalling and that will allow me to put the pedal to the floor when the yellows fall without launching at the same time my foot is going to the floor.

I usually preload, yellows fall, foot the floor to bounce the rev limiter and down with the ebrake and dump the clutch at the same time it hits the limiter once. Ive got it timed pretty well by how fast my motor revs up. Its all getting used to it. My best 60ft to date is 1.68 on small 22X8X15 m/t slicks but they were new unlike the 7 year old taller slicks.

I think i may be able to get in the low 1.6's with these new 24.5X9X13 m/t's i got. haha. Set them to 8 psi or so and do a smokey 2nd gear burnout now that i will have a clutch to hold it, haha
yeah twin discs allow about 1mm of slippage before full grab hah it took me a week to relearn how to drive my car..

anyhow i took it to the track yesterday (1/8'th mile) and did alright.. not my best but i was having traction issues my mickey t 26x10x15's would hook OK but the track was not preparred i almost lost it a few times half way down the track

anyhow best ET was 7.2 @ 102mph with a 1.64 60'

first they told me my launch control was too loud (i shoot fireballs sounds like gunshots) so i turned it off.. then they told me i went too fast with a passenger and they kicked me out... oh well

good build though man if you ever come out this way definately hit me up theres tons of nissan heads out here in diego
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Old 10-17-2009, 03:32 PM   #69
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cool man, nice run, Thats exactly what i ran the last time i went out. At least my 1/8 mile time and trap was exactly that. And just like you, i was spinning the slicks all the way until almost the 1/8 mile.

Yeah ill hit you up.
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Old 10-18-2009, 02:16 AM   #70
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I miss my B13. Had a Super Black 92 SE-R with a JDM DE converted to turbo with a complete U13 Bluebird T25 setup that even had the factory intake piping and rubber boost hose. Had the Hyperco gen 2 springs/AGX setup with a Progress adj. rear sway. Best handling car I have ever driven or owned. Don't get me wrong, my S13 handles awesome, but the B13 has mid-corner control like few to no other cars Ive ever driven. Here is the only pic I still have, and this is after I had sold it even.

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Old 10-18-2009, 02:36 PM   #71
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nice, very clean, Yeah some people dont know just how well they handle with very few suspension mods.

I have Ground Controls on GR2's with ES bushings all the way around and just with those simple things and good tires it will corner very well.
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Old 10-20-2009, 01:52 PM   #72
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nice, very clean, Yeah some people dont know just how well they handle with very few suspension mods.

I have Ground Controls on GR2's with ES bushings all the way around and just with those simple things and good tires it will corner very well.

what are you using for engine management? i can retune your stock ecu (mail order) or you can drive it down to san diego and we can dyno tune it..

i also have a launch control option that will make your car build boost on line like mine and shoot fireballs check it out.. i build over 40psi of boost on the line

YouTube - E-Mance Drag S14 KA-T Testing out our new launch control option w/boost gauge vid
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Old 10-20-2009, 03:24 PM   #73
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believe it or not, im using a Calum Basic ECU, basicly exactly what JWT does but this guy does it a hell of a lot cheaper and i can get new chips any time i want.

But anyways i did make some simple changes to the maps when i first got it running to mainly take care of some partial throttle and low end full throttle fuel issues. Timing maps are pretty good, conservative but good. which is what i need for using it as a daily and 19psi.

Calum also offers a launch control program but he has been swamped lately.

I might take you up on the offer but we will have to see. What would be the charge for the dyno time? with fwd its already hard enough getting off the line with the power im making just rev limiter launching it, I think once i get out on these brand new bigger slicks it will solve alot of the traction issues but still i think with the way i launch it might put me right on the dot.

Oh btw my buddy is using Calum's realtime verions of the ecu which just hooks to a laptop. I did all the tuning to his SR20VE motor and will be doing some more tuning when he does these couple changes here soon.

Hit me up, i might be down to take a trip there when its done.
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Old 10-21-2009, 12:36 PM   #74
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depending on how long you want to be on the dyno i can get you a day or half day for super cheap too cheap to even post

yeah i'm famililar with calum also.. cool guy taught me a lot.

we're also hacking the firmware right now to support 3 and 5 bar map sensors so you dont have to use maf on nissan ecu's should be testing that in the next few months... really cool shit
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Old 10-21-2009, 12:56 PM   #75
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definetly interested in the 5 bar map sensor setup on our ecu's That crap would be outstanding. The Z32 maf can only go soo far. Approx 550 is just about maxing it out. haha. I basicly have my entire setup to be right at the limit at the 550whp mark.

Dude pm me with the dyno cost. Very very interested. Yeah and Calum is an awesome guy with a lot of knowledge when it comes to tuning and our nissan ecu's.

He is working on some great stuff. My buddies realtime has his new vvl activation trigger program on it as well. Had an issue with it at first but it was one of his first ecu's out. He said it was a simple connection error in the ecu.

So yeah man hit me up.
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Old 10-21-2009, 02:43 PM   #76
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I had a clean b13 once... built N/A japan bumper and painted black with rare enkei or advans




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Old 10-21-2009, 05:31 PM   #77
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definetly interested in the 5 bar map sensor setup on our ecu's That crap would be outstanding. The Z32 maf can only go soo far. Approx 550 is just about maxing it out. haha. I basicly have my entire setup to be right at the limit at the 550whp mark.

Dude pm me with the dyno cost. Very very interested. Yeah and Calum is an awesome guy with a lot of knowledge when it comes to tuning and our nissan ecu's.

He is working on some great stuff. My buddies realtime has his new vvl activation trigger program on it as well. Had an issue with it at first but it was one of his first ecu's out. He said it was a simple connection error in the ecu.

So yeah man hit me up.

if you're maxing the z32 maf out right now, i have a base map for b13 and s13 that has correct vq tables for ford lightning maf.. that is what i run on my s14 and still havent maxed it out.. at 720whp and whats cool about the lightning maf is they're about $75 brand new
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Old 10-21-2009, 06:09 PM   #78
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well i havent looked at voltages yet but from what ive seen 550-575whp is about the max on them.

Id love to go to a map sensor without the cost of an aem unit.
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