SnaggleToof

I just finished installing a painless chassis kit and wiring specialties engine harness into my S14 with S13 SR20.

Im not getting any fuel or spark and i'm not sure why.
First of all, the painless chassis kit runs my fuel pump, starter, and ignition signal... All are working perfectly.

I used the S13 SR20DET universal standalone wiring specialties harness. Yury has told me that the only thing that needs to be wired into the engine harness is the ignition switch, and the harness should run itself.

I double checked all the plugs, all are plugged in. Double checked all the grounds (unless im missing some)
- 2 ground wires on top of intake manifold near firewall
- coil pack sub-harness ground
- MAF subharness ground
- one large ground from lower intake to chassis

I have two igniter chips, tested all 5 pins on the one side. On one chip all 5 were reading 0, on the second chip all 5 were reading around 3.0 volts.

Now, i checked ecu pins 38 and 47 (eccs power) on the harness and they were not getting power. I emailed yury and he said the ecu should be grounding the red/black wire from the ECCS Relay, but it wasnt, so i manually grounded that wire to the chassis and now pins 38 and 47 show 12 volts, but the red light inside the ECU does not come on.

I tested a bunch of ground pins on the ECU plug by hooking them up to the battery and a multimeter (39, and 48, as well as all the ignition grounds) and they were all showing 0 volts... Should they be dead, or should they show 12 when i test them like any other ground wire?

in conclusion, everything from my painless chassis kit works. Lights are working, fuel pump works, starter turns over nicely. There is 12v power going to all engine sensors and ground should be fine. Crank the engine over and no spark or fuel injectors firing.

I bought the engine, ecu, ignitor chip all at once and they were all working fine they day i picked up the engine. Only thing new is the harness. What gives?

SnaggleToof

Got my ecu working, still no fuel or spark.

today we found some weird stuff while testing the CAS plug. I had a buddy who owns a 12v install shop come out and help me properly check voltage/continuity, he also redid my soldering to make sure it was good.

First, we checked voltage to the 4 pins at the CAS* plug with ignition on and off.

Using this diagram:

PIN 1: IGN (12v)
IGNITION ON: 3.6 VOLTS
IGNITION OFF: O VOLTS
Why only 3.6 volts? I checked a bunch of other plugs and they have 12v with ignition on...

PIN 2: ECCS Relay
IGNITION ON: 13.0 VOLTS
IGNITION OFF: 0 VOLTS
This should be the other way around, shouldnt it?

PIN 3: CAS signal
IGNITION ON: 5 VOLTS
IGNITION OFF: 0 VOLTS

PIN 4: CAS Signal
IGNITION ON: 5 VOLTS
IGNITION OFF: 0 VOLTS

We also tested for continuity between the plug end and the ecu plug pins.

CAS PIN 1 - ECU PIN 36
With ignition on, we had no continuity, but with ignition off we DID have continuity... Wtf? This is backwards?

CAS PIN 2 - ECU PIN 47
Continuity - good

CAS PIN 3 - ECU PIN 31
Continuity - good

CAS PIN 4 - ECU PIN 30
Continuity - good

ultimateirving

Cas was my initial thought after reading your first post..
So continue down that path and see if you can borrow anyone elses to swap in to test.

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