IDKanything

I have a 95 s14, KA, manual and as far as so know it came stock that way. I got it as a roller with the engine harness in the trunk so it's been an adventure figuring out where everything goes. I believe I have everything hooked up correctly but when turning the key on it doesn't crank, no click from starter. The fuel pump doesn't prime or turn on and the wipers don't work ( included because part of the same harness). I tested the fuel pump it works but isn't getting power. I am getting 12v at the relay but no trigger signal for the relay. I tried unplugging the ignition plug and jumping the wires but that didn't work either so I don't think it's the switch.

Is there an immobilizer or something built into these cars that would prevent both from working, or is there something I've missed? It has a security light, but does that just have to do with an alarm?

A previous owner also seems to have put a toggle switch in line for the neutral switch on the clutch pedal. Is this evidence of an auto to manual swap or ghetto anti theft? ( Looking into these write-ups as well)

I am still trying to figure this out and looking through the FSM and past posts. Just trying to cast a wide net to solve the problem and get a more experienced perspective.

Thanks for any help and advice.

mechanicalmoron

So is there power at the switch? And is there continuity across the switch?

IDKanything

I have power at the switch, the white wire in slot one. I have 12v and cont through the switch in the correct positions. The only thing in question there is the B/R wire. when the multimeter produces sound for cont. On all wires it makes a continuous sound. But the B/R only makes a short chirp is there anything wrong with that?

kyral

yes there is definitely an anti theft imobilizer. it wil prevent everything from turning on

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mechanicalmoron

That's not continuity, it's not getting the tiny current it injects back - it may be pulling out of a capacitor on that side of the circuit, like if you check for continuity between your positive and negative cables (while disconnected, obviously), the electronics will cause meaningless artifacts on your meter.

(I have no idea what colors do what or go where, I'm giving general procedural advice, you will have to check against the FSM to see what does what)

IDKanything

I apologize I am still not that great at troubleshooting electronics. I get it now, I was testing it incorrectly. The ignition switch is good.

I tested every relay, hooked them up to a battery then tested cont. all clicked and tested good. I also verified that they weren't stuck open or closed.

I have been trying to find out how to remove the immobilizer, but people only want to share the process through PM. If anyone knows how to do it and is willing to pm me how to I would appreciate it.

Thank you

mechanicalmoron

I don't think there's anything stock to that effect, if there's something it's one of those terrible little aftermarket boxes that fry, you've just got to find it, it's always different, according to the whims of the installer.

Could be wrong. The s13 is an on/off dumb key type of car.

kyral

he has a 95 s14 and said there is a security light. the system was available from the factory on that car

I just looked at the FSM and it says the anti theft will only shut down the starter motor so I was a bit wrong in my previous statement

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IDKanything

That's what I have been seeing as well, that the anti-theft only disables the starter. I am probably going to bypass the security system for the starter and run the wire from the ignition directly to the starter and see what happens. I am running out of ideas for what to check.

mechanicalmoron

Take off the column and kick panel plastics and find where there's aftermarket "scotch (b)locks" or similar, connecting a device that interrupts and/or monitors various wires coming from the switch.

Take that shit off, use crimps to fix the wires as necessary (no twisting the wire as you insert it). the starter signal wire passes a good bit of current and goes thru the switch with no relay. Try jumping the starter (with a remote starter or ghetto approximation of one) with the key on, or ideally, with someone holding the switch in start (the injector strategy changes for strong starting, it'll just sort of choke and sputter to life after a moment of cranking, if you start it in "on", but won't hurt anything).

kyral

you keep thinking this is an aftermarket unit. its factory. it looks like its under the dash left side of the steering wheel bolted in place. it looks like youd be jumping the the theft warning relay and cutting power to the box (W/R wire or removing circuit breaker m13) to disable the unit

but looking back and reading OP original statement, looks like this isn't fitting the problem they are experiencing

you said you confirmed you are getting 12v at the white wire on the ignition switch?

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S14rebuild

This guy knows everything...listen to him

S14rebuild

Find ur theift lock relay and ground pin #2, should be light greem wire


Check what u have there while tryn to crank

kyral

OR.. and hear me out, you could listen to the guy who actually references the Factory service manual

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S14rebuild

Check my 2nd post.....clearly posted info found in the service manual



Havent seen u help at all in here, except quote posts and bitch its not the info the op is looking for...

S14rebuild

http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/240sx/1995/


Here. Now KYRAL can fix the car for u himself.....

kyral

haven't seen you post anything relevant ever except talking shit.. oh and double posting to increase your post count..
And I looked at the FSM it looks like its a problem with power to the switch, or the switch itself

I see mechanical moon mentioned something and I might have derailed the thread a bit ill own up to that and being wrong

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S14rebuild

Ur right....never help anyone here.

IDKanything

So I have pulled all the plastics from the column and the majority of the interior and found no aftermarket security systems. I verified I am getting no power to my ECU from neither the ignition switch or the other 12v wires, I don't have my notes in front of me so I don't recall the pin numbers.

Sorry, it takes a while to respond. I don't have service in my barn so I make a plan of what to check and don't come back inside until I need to.

Yes, I do have 12v at the switch and the switch tested good when I checked it.

FSM references never hurt, could very easily have something I overlooked that ends up being the solution.

Thank you, everyone, for the help.

jedi03

sounds like your trigger for the relay has open circuit...either cut wire or not connected

IDKanything

Thank you, I will check the trigger wire when I get home. I am in the process of going through wire by wire.

IDKanything

I think I found it! The black/red ECU power wire had gotten pushed back in the connector. I think the acsd connector, the bastard with the lever to lock it in. Went to back probe it and it clicked back in car turns over and fuel pump primes.

I greatly appreciate everyones help on this and I apologize for it having been something so simple that was the issue.

kyral

Do the wipers work now?
just out of curiousity

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