bm3r

so the stock T28 can only handly 275whp, will everything I have listed above get me to 275whp? what else will I need?

lol at the clean engine bay comment

g6civcx

C: every single S14 SR I've seen come into the local shop needed VTC repair, has already fixed the VTC, or removed the VTC.

It's not a big deal. Just my personal bias.

I prefer to get an S13 SR and tune it with a standalone. Fewer parts and more adjustability that way.

This. Regardless of mileage, I would do every single external gasket because of age. I would also pull the oil pan and check out the crank and clean the oil pickup.

There are also things you want to do with the engine out before you put it into the car. You can search around and see what is recommended.

bm3r

Ill definitely mention the preventative maintenance to the shop. Brakes are all new and all suspension bushings will be installed soon!

g6civcx

"engine" is not the same as "engine bay".

Don't make the reading comprehension issue worse.

KOUKIboy

To the OP...If you have 6gs and want to make if fast with an SR20 good luck cause parts and labor are gonna cost a shit load, it also depends what you are gonna use the car for Drifting, Drag, Daily driver..Etc.. You can always go with the other alternative, KAT, keep the KA and Turbo it, with 6gs you can easily make a KAT with 300-500 HP or more....Parts are less expensive than SR and if you all you want is HP then I would recommend making the KAT....Its lots of fun...Good luck with whatever you dice....

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motorboater

could do rb25det swap. or if you stay sr this wil save you some money

11. Short ram air Intake. can keep it stock fo now
13. AEM Uego/gauge controller. dont really need this for stock.
15. Dyno/Tune with stock ECU. cant really tune anything with stock ecu. unless you send it in.
17. Competition stage 4 clutch. overkill, exedy 2 or three would be fine with resurfaced flywheel
19. s14 Greddy intake manifold/plenum. lose torque i believe with this. there is no reason for anything but stock for now.
20. Fuel rail and injectors. dont need a new rail get injectors that are direct drop in, and injectors wont do anything unless you do get the ecu ROM tuned
21. Turbo timer. pointless if on a budget. if you run it hard just leave your motor on for another min before you turn it off.
22. Koyo radiator. you can use stock if not i recommend mishimoto.

porkchop911

how bout you just sell me your kouki and keep the m3 if u still have it lol jk i dont kno what to tell you besides save more money if you want to start this project and as someone said try doing it your self that the whole thrill of it knowing what you have in UR car and knowing U built it just my 2 cents there you can add that to your budget

hybrid_eg

yea sell that nissan pile and keep the e46...

I have my nissan pile now because I had to sell my baby (school is more important to me) so my pile makes me happy at moment until I graduate.

To give my .02cent to really answer your questions, with that budget you can get a complete sr20, get dpipe, bolt on exhaust, upgrade turbo, injectors, cams, rom tune, single stage clutch, headgasket w/rod bolts and you're set.. 300whp guarnateed. Of course you will need to do labor yourself, but above mentioned is entirely a bolt on affair say with a gt2871 turbo. Done.

former baby:

nissanguru

ditch the sr and buy an s14 with an rb25 already in it, and build it. rb>sr

dopplganger1

-98 S14: Check
-Staggered Nismo LMGT4's: Check
-Tein SS C/O's: Check
-OEM front lip: Check

Now for the $6000 max budget w/labor (on the road):

1. S14 SR20det Black Top w/VTC (engine tranny ecu)
2. Labor cost do it yourself really isnt that hard if anything find people that have done it before to help
3. 3" down pipe
4. FMIC-Greddy go with cheaper like pbm or mishimoto or isis
5. Apexi N1 exhaust go with cheaper plenty out there and piping is piping
6. s14 install kit for fuel pump
7. Walbro 255 fuel pump
8. Auto to manual swap-pedal asembly, clutch master cylinder,etc (my car is Automatic)
9. Clutch lines and fittings
10. Battery relo kit to trunk if needeed
11. Short ram air Intake
12. Air conditioning to work
13. AEM Uego/gauge controller
14. AEM boost gauge/controller
15. Dyno/Tune with stock ECU
16. HKS SS BOV Series 3
17. Competition stage 4 clutch -go with a Tennessee clutch & supply really cheap and holds like all hell
18. Competition clutch lightweight flywheel gain acceleration but loose a little torque so not really needed but atleast resurface yours
19. s14 Greddy intake manifold/plenum stick with stock for your power range stock works fine
20. Fuel rail and injectors stock rail is plenty efficient enough
21. Turbo timer not needed you can just sit in your car for a little bit
22. Koyo radiator go with a cheaper one like pbm or mishimoto

Big Zee

this is super easy to answer your question mate. Install it stock. and mod with whatever money you have leftover. it'll be around 2500 for the motorset 1500? for labour costs ( its what I charge to put a sr in and return the car to customer running with mods they have have given to install extra ) so you have 2k to play with, get the rad, exhaust ( turbo back ) and a fuel pump to support it. and that'll be your 6k.

think I saved you 1500+ in parts alone. if you want a boost gauge get a autometer one. I suggest getting a mechanical oil pressure gauge also.

look in the Buy/Sell parts section on here and you can prolly score a fair amount of goods for a lot cheaper then buying new and it'll help you stay within your budget.

good luck with the build and if you want all those parts to be shiny new, get a case of beer, some pizza;s and some buddies over and it should take you a weekend to do the swap, specially if your buddies have done a sr swap before ( or make friends with someone who has done the swap and bribe them )

S14DB

You are pretty sure? Maybe you should read the rules before diving into this.

Vehicle Emissions Inspection Program

1996+ = OBDII plug in test. When you swap in the SR you lose OBDII. You wont be able to even fail the test. You will get an incomplete test due to OBD not detected.

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Comments should be taken as Opinions not as Statements of Fact

iwishiwas-all*

sell the 240, take the other 6k you got, and put it as a down payment on a genesis or something...

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Def

Labor is going to eat you alive when you decide you want a "little more power" or a "little better suspension."

It's seriously not that hard - buy a $100 set of tools and you can take apart 99% of the car.

If you're stuck going at it the way you're proposing, my suggestion would be to get bigger injectors(740cc) and a Z32 MAF(N62) from the start. You've got way too much of an E46 M3 owner mentality approaching this car(not necessarily a bad thing, former E36 M3 owner x2 here), so you just need to realize that the same things don't work the same.

I'd also recommend ditching the T28 from the get-go and getting a GT2871R 0.64 A/R turbo. You can get them that bolt right in place of the stock T28 and then you can make an easy 300 rwhp with stock cams, and a $300-500 set of cams will get you up to ~350 rwhp.

Don't do this in small stages if you're paying for labor. You'll end up with a lot of money sunk into a car that isn't very fast and you'll just want more.


Although again, I'd *STRONGLY* recommend you at least learn to do some basic wrenching on your car. Even if it's just replacing maintenance items on the engine while it's out and bolting on a few new parts and letting a shop do the swap part. If you pay someone to hold your hand the whole way it's going to cost a ridiculous amount and I bet you're displeased with the car before it's all said and done.

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S13 Hatch - Goes around tracks quickly
DEFSPORT

0wn3r

there's some retarded ass suggestions going on in this thread.

Just think of the common sense approach man (needs > wants)..fill in some of the blanks:

S14 SR = $2500
Install + Wiring =
Resurface or New Flywheel =
New clutch =
5-speed trim, rubber boot, clutch pedal assembly, shift knob, USDM 5-speed VSS if you want your speedometer to work =
Spark plugs (If you want cheaper go with BKR7E) =
New fluids / filters (basic sometimes included in swap price) =
Motor mounts =
S14 to S14SR bracket & belt to use w/ KA A/C= ~$110
Driveshaft
Exhaust
Battery relocation kit (secure it down well)

I mean, from there you can have a whole list of things as far as upgrades...to show you, here's the list of things I got from 240sxmotoring during the initial swap:

Greddy M-Spec Intercooler Kit
Greddy Hotpipe
Greddy Type RS bov
Koyo radiator
Samco rad hose kit
Greddy MX downpipe
Walbro 255 fuel pump & kit
Nismo tranny and motor mounts
ACT street/strip clutch kit
AGP clutch lines
steel driveshaft
Catco 3" cat
Circuit Sports dual-tip cat-back exhaust (piping ISN'T piping in this case as it came out of the box basically rusted up...it sounds nice, but I'd go with the Nicoclub BRM exhaust or something lighter if I was to start over)
Apex'i power intake
Auto ---> 5-speed swap parts
S15 turbo (since JDM Engine Depot sold me the motorset with a blown S14 turbo on it..no shaft play but its bearings were shot)
NEW stock FUEL RAIL (JDM Engine Depot had cracked it when they picked up the motor)
new coolant temp sensor
new exhaust manifold and turbo inlet gaskets, a couple of belts, and few elbows...(if you do the turbo inlet gasket, I'd highly recommend the locking plates)
Circuit Sports magnetic oil drain plug
NGK iridium plugs
Boost, oil pressure, and water temp gauges

Let me just clear it up by saying that with a $6K budget I wouldn't recommend trying to shoot for 275hp right out of the gate. I've got alot more parts than that now (I did 555cc injectors, Z32 MAF with which you'll need a new intake), manual boost controller, Power FC, and a full dyno tune). Don't forget these are USED mystery engines you're getting and something might not work right at first. On top of the blown turbo & cracked fuel rail, the alternator and CAS went within the first couple months.

Again, I strongly recommend setting your budget up by putting together a NEEDS list, then multiplying it times 1.5. After that, if you still have money, start looking at your wants.

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97 240sx se

SlideWell

1. S14 SR20det Black Top w/VTC (engine tranny ecu) buy a front clip
2. Labor cost isnt cheap
3. 3" down pipe i suggest the circuit sport flex downpipe
4. FMIC-Greddy this with bov will run you $600 or more
5. Apexi N1 exhaust not bad, i have GT Spec
6. s14 install kit for fuel pump check
7. Walbro 255 fuel pump check
8. Auto to manual swap-pedal asembly, clutch master cylinder,etc (my car is Automatic) included with front clip
9. Clutch lines and fittings front clip
10. Battery relo kit to trunk if needeed not always needed but some FMIC require it
11. Short ram air Intake Apexi air filter
12. Air conditioning to work buy a bracket or possibly use from clip
13. AEM Uego/gauge controller save it
14. AEM boost gauge/controller i like apexi more
15. Dyno/Tune with stock ECU no point in tuning a stock motor, exception if avc-r equipped, minor tuning allowed
16. HKS SS BOV Series 3 recirculate your existing bov
17. Competition stage 4 clutch Exedy
18. Competition clutch lightweight flywheel Exedy
19. s14 Greddy intake manifold/plenum waste
20. Fuel rail and injectors waste
21. Turbo timer waste
22. Koyo radiator not needed on stock SR
id also try and add an Apexi AVC-R, well worth the money, and id def do front and rear crank seal and new water pump.
my
gorgeous kouki btw

0wn3r

Sorry, just saw your responses:

3. 3" down pipe (sure, get it w/ exhaust) Will I need a test pipe and turbo outlet pipe-megan racing?

You don't need anything fancy here. Consider a hi-flow cat if you can get away with a tail pipe sniff, but I doubt it. FYI- The waiver "fee" in my state for not passing and being allowed to postpone for another 2 years is $620.

11. Short ram air Intake (Apex'i is one of the best rated intakes...I could sell you my used one which is only a year old unless you plan on going Z32 MAF right away) i may use the z32 maf

Just know that when you do this, it'll need:
To be wired, be used with a new intake unless you get an adapter which I have mixed feelings on, and also be configured with your ECU. I personally waited on the Z32 MAF until I had all the other parts to go with it so I didn't spend the $ on a tune just for one minor change.

13. AEM Uego/gauge controller (why?) recommended to me
14. AEM boost gauge/controller (why?) recommended to me how will I be able to read the boost levels?

I just assume AEM is expensive haha. I mean, I'm sure it's nice but if you're looking for something a little more basic to save $ there's other things out there. I wouldn't go cheap of cheap, but IMO there's no need to shell out cash on bling gauges just yet..The boost gauge is VERY helpful though for pointing out vacuum leaks, or I guess overboost (which shouldn't really happen stock).

17. Competition stage 4 clutch (I wouldn't keep stock but..why this?) what do you recommend? exedy stage 2?

I've heard good things about the exedy stage 2 and bad things about the stage 1 :P

I had (have) the ACT street/strip clutch in there now and, aside from being a little noisy, it's held up. Then again, I've heard people NOT liking this ACT clutch too...I dunno. Just look at how much hp you're putting down. 275hp doesn't need a balls-out clutch unless you're going to be dumping it all the time...

18. Competition clutch lightweight flywheel (if you have the money for one then go for a lightweight, otherwise you can resurface it and wind up regretting it later haha) which lightweight flywheel do you recommend?

lol, sorry, I'm on the regret side of this one. I don't have a recommendation because I just resurfaced since I was on a budget too, but wish I spent the $ to lighten it up.

19. s14 Greddy intake manifold/plenum (why?) what about a cheaper megan racing intake manifold?

the stock manifold is fine man

20. Fuel rail and injectors (why fuel rail?) recommended to me

Same goes for the injectors as the Z32 MAF. You don't necessarily need a fuel rail...the HKS 555cc injectors I got dropped into the stock fuel rail. Also worth mentioning: I DO NOT have an adjustable FPR, nor did I upgrade mine. Definitely make sure you have the fuel pump before injectors though.

21. Turbo timer (no.)

Let me also go back to this one and mention that I did not purchase a new thermostat either. I know a number of people recommend this which is great if you live in a hotter area I'm sure. My water temp only starts to climb when I'm standing still at idle with the a/c on. I've never been on a full out race track, but my temp has never climbed about 194-ish F.

22. Koyo radiator (ok, you can keep stock fan shroud to save $ too) I was told I need to have one, is it safe to go without it?

Go without a radiator completely? lol, no! I got a Koyo right when I did my swap along with the hose kit. I was just trying to say that electronic fans are not a necessity for your cooling decisions.

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97 240sx se

0wn3r

+1 If there's one thing I'd stress from that post, it's RECIRCULATE!!!

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97 240sx se

blueshark123

i should of sold u my sr setup all u need for a swap for 3.5k

usajdm

Best advice..........

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What the hell is "BALLER" or "GANGSTER" status, about a 240sx?

Ben G

so you got rid of this bmw for that s14 and have 6k left and are wanting to do all that stuff? should have just kept the bmw in the first place

nice_tan

Yo! Its Tan. I bought the struts from you. Did not realize that you sold your M3 for the S14. crazy! but thats done with. If I were you, I would work on the S14 on your own. Saves shit load and you can put that money to other stuff. There are lots of forums and post pretty much about anything. I recently bought mine about 2 months ago so I can work on it, that's the fun part. And trust me, I'm not a mechanic but I have talked to people and read many forums that have years of experience on 240's. You will feel rewarded once everything is done. Looks like you don't have the patient. Kouki s14 is nice but i wouldn't get it to have someone else work on it. Better go get your M3 back haha

eek

1. S14 SR20det Black Top w/VTC (engine tranny ecu)
2. Labor cost - $$$
3. 3" down pipe - megan flex dp/circuit sports one (same thing) or buy used on here
4. FMIC-Greddy - M-sepc or LS-spec or look for a deal on a used one
5. Apexi N1 exhaust - find a used one, doesn't have to be apexi
6. s14 install kit for fuel pump -??? should come w/ fuel pump
7. Walbro 255 fuel pump - special going on right now for $89 shipped
8. Auto to manual swap-pedal asembly, clutch master cylinder,etc (my car is Automatic) clutch pedal is all you really need, u can cut ur brake one down. clutch master is fairly cheap
9. Clutch lines and fittings - you can order this from enjuku for $50
10. Battery relo kit to trunk if needeed - no need, u can buy a miata autozone battery-works fine
11. Short ram air Intake - if u can't afford the kit since its bank, get a ebay arm and apexi filter
12. Air conditioning to work - there as a member that sold the brackets, but re-charge will cost you extra.
13. AEM Uego/gauge controller - see below
14. AEM boost gauge/controller - see below
15. Dyno/Tune with stock ECU - go w/ a romtune if u can't afford a Power FC
16. HKS SS BOV Series 3 -
17. Competition stage 4 clutch - why? go w/ exedy stage 2
18. Competition clutch lightweight flywheel - no need but if u can afford one, act is cheap
19. s14 Greddy intake manifold/plenum - no need unless u find a super good deal used
20. Fuel rail and injectors - stock rail is fine no need to change, if later on get 555cc or 740cc injectors if u get a turbo upgrade.
21. Turbo timer - no real need, but if ur lazy u can find a used one for cheap
22. Koyo radiator - no need u can use the stock one w/ stock fan shroud works fine.

If you hunt around in the for sale section, you can usually find some pretty decent deals on used parts. You can save quite a bit going used instead of brand new. Just be smart on what to buy used.

bm3r

whats up tan! m3 is sold!


thanks for all the info guys!

bm3r

Ok I revised my list using some of your suggestions check it out:

1. S14 SR20det Black Top with VTC
2. Labor
3. Stock S14 Radiator
4. A/C to work
5. P/S to work
6. Short Ram Intake
7. Auto to Manual swap and Parts
8. Boost gauge-What brand?
9. Manual Boost Controller-What brand?
10. HKS SS BOV
11. Motul Fluids
12. New belts, hoses, heater hoses
13. 3" Exhaust
14. 3" Turbo elbow
15. 3" DP
16. 3" Test Pipe
17. Walbro 255 Fuel Pump
18. Stock S14 Clutch
19. FMIC


Few questions:

1. What will I dyno at to the Wheels with the setup above?
2. Will I need a Sikky thermalnator heatshield gasket and what does it do?
3. So a Miata battery will work rather than relocating the battery to the trunk?
4. Will my tach and speedo work after the swap?
5. Headers seem to be cheap, will I see a nice gain with the setup above?
6. Should I cough the extra bucks and get a new radiator? Will the bumper have to be removed if I install it down the road?
7. A stock flywheel that is resurfaced will suffice correct?
8. Will I need new spark plugs?
9. Will I still get a blow off sound if I recirculate the stock BOV-to save $$ rather than getting the HKS SS BOV?


Please post some dyno #'s, most graphs I see are with big turbos etc.

TIA!-JR

jr_ss

1. With said list, you'd be around 250ish at the wheels, which is still quite respectable. You'd pull a low 13sec run at the strip.
2. You don't need it.
3. Yes it will work
4. This should be taken care of in the wiring aspect...
5. Don't waste your money on a cheap ass manifold. You'll see minimal gains.
6. As said, mishimoto or whatever the hell its called is decent. I like having 2gals of coolant cycling through my motor (Koyo rad).
7. Yes, stock is fine. But if you're going in there to replace the one it comes with, save yourself the later expense of pulling the trans out again.
8. Yes, NGK heat range 6 or 7's will do just fine.
9. You'll hear minimal noise from the stock recirc'd valve. The HKS SSQV is good, but I recomment recircing it as well, although many people don't and have zero issues, I was one.

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My SR20VET

FaLKoN240

Get rid of those Tein SS they suck, and are the WORST coilovers I've used in my whole life.

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Best way to do business with me? Make your best offer FIRST.

bm3r

thanks for the info, ive read that they were great. what would you recommend in that price range? tanabe sustec pro soc? stance?



ok thanks for the info! the stock flywheel and clutch were removed from my list to cut out a good chunk of change. I was thinking of an exedy stage 2 clutch, but havent found the flywheel i want. what do you think?

DALAZ_68

omfg

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CLUB LEXUS : Wh0pp3r

jr_ss

Tein SS's are a great coilover. Most people on here don't like them because they can't scrape frame rails with them. If you want a nice stance, more aggressive spring rates and valving than stock springs/struts and don't want to trash the underside of your car they'll do just fine. Not everyone is a drift fan boi... If however that's what youre going for, then of course sell them, otherwise I think you'll be good.

I think that clutch would be adequate for what you are going for. I think Exedy has a flywheel you can purchase too if you want to lighten it up. Remember, this is all based on peoples opinions, find out what YOU want and can afford. I purchased all my swap parts and upgrades first, the motorset was my last purchase. I would suggest learning how to wrench atleast a little bit as well.

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My SR20VET