Irresistible

Tension as in the arms for the front? Just making sure you didn't make a mistake, cus I was asking about the rear suspension, but your answer tells me more. So thanks man.

s14freak93901

most people don't touch the LCA. only toe,camber,traction. yes, you''ll be good with only toe and ruca.

Tig weld takes time and isn't easy. PBM has great prices on their multi links.

Irresistible

Alright awesome. Maybe getting energy bushings and a new joint for my RLCA wouldn't be a bad idea.

s14freak93901

replacing the bushings is a must. what about your subframe?

Irresistible

Rear subframe, I plan on getting solid diff bushings from Stance, and a subframe brace. I don't know about taking out the front and rear subframe to get risers, and solid subframe bushings because it's a daily car, so I don't want the suspension to be TOO stiff. Also, I don't know if I'd be able to take the subframe out and put it back in on my own.

ManoNegra

There's no front subframe nor bushings on on our cars
cross member bolts directly to the chassis
FSM can be downloaded from free you know

they don't make the car stiff, that's what cheap oversprung coilovers are for.
they make the rear of the car feel great
problem is they're very noisy and can be annoying on a daily driven car

not recommended for a novice but not impossible either
I've done it by myself before:

http://zilvia.net/f/chat/165043-bush...ml#post1766348

Irresistible

Thanks. I'll look into it some more and decide from there.

I thought there was a front subframe and bushings, but I'm also an idiot.

Red Dragon3

When i look for suspension parts for my car, i usually look at what kind of research and development a company has shown in developing there products. Read the product description on the company website or the forums threads about the product. If a company has has done the r&d on the product, they will have explanations on how there products will benefit you as the consumer. For example, go to spl or powered by max websites, the product description is very descriptive and they show there in depth knowledge in there products. Then go to websites like god speed and megan racing. The descriptions is minimal. You can clearly tell who did there home work.
I see alot of fanboism on this web site. Alot of people here only support JDM brands, that dont mean S***. The quality of the product does not necessarily reflect on the quality of the product. There is also alot of negative criticism from people towards certain companys, on the basis of one or two cases that has occurred and they boycott the company products. If your going to drive your car hard, or race your car, things will eventually break. These suspension parts are not build out of heavy duty titanium. If you apply too much stress its going to break.
There is alot of copy cats out there. You are entitled to spend your money on what ever you want. But if you want people to continue to research and develop new products, for your car, support the original developers, the ones who actually design the products and not the copy cats. You not necessary paying the company for quality, or "legitness" your pay the extra premium price for their time in researching and there continuation of researching and developing new and better products.

Get yourself some coilovers, RUCA, Toe arms. Those are the most important ones.

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08 Mitsubishi Evo X MR
89 Nissan 240SX

[email protected]

This is a great question, and I had been meaning to do a writeup on this. Basically for a suspension arm, what you want is:

* Light weight
Your suspension arm makes up some of the car's unsprung weight, so the lighter the better. Think of this as paying for lightweight wheels. But weight often has to be balanced against strength/stiffness.

* Strength/stiffness
This depends on the design, materials used, welding, heat treating, etc. Of course, nobody wants a suspension arm that will break, but just because it doesn't break does not mean its a good suspension arm. You want to consider how much a suspension arm will flex when you apply a few thousand pounds of load on it. Replacing that rubber bushing with a super high quality spherical bearing doesn't make sense if the arm still flexes 1/4" under load. On the other hand, you also don't want arms that weigh like a tank. The usual tricks for having good strength vs weight is to use large diameter hollow tubing, keeping bends low, reinforcing bends, using high strength materials (eg. 41XX chromoly vs. 10XX steel), etc.

* Friction
This comes down to the quality of the bearing.

* Precision
You want all components to be machined precisely, so you have as little "slop" as possible. Components that fit too loosely together, can slip/move under load, and that will affect your alignment. Adjusters that thread too loosely means less thread engagement, increasing the likelihood of the thread stripping out under load. Making things precise takes a lot more time and effort.

* User friendliness
Many people may not have considered this because they do not install or align their cars themselves, but remember most alignment shops get paid by the job, not by the hour. If it takes too much effort for them to get your alignment precise, or set things up perfectly right, then they will not do so.

* Finishing
The quality and type of finishes make a difference as to how well the arm will hold up to the weather and use.

hellion240sx

quoted for truth... also WHY did you have to use spl and pbm as an examp?!?!?! I'm trying to pick one of the two! and that doesn't help

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R.I.P. KAIN. YOU'LL ALWAYS BE BY MY SIDE!
240 addict miata addict

s13 @ fullboost

kazama and tien ftw

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mrchomponthis

I would like to here from some of the major s chassis companies with some feed back. yep, I AM CALLING YOU GUYS OUT! SERVE YOUR CUSTOMERS

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CHOMPONWHAT?

nathanong87

the only thing i look for in suspension arms is the color that they are powder coated and if they go along with my current paint scheme.

all joking aside. i've had no complaints about PBM (rucas), SPL (outers), or battle version (tension , toe). so far they have all "performed" as described.

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driftsilvias13

Peak Performance!

Aurora ends and beefy. Also they have a pretty good anti wear coating on their arms. My s14 has all Peak Performance arms.

I'd also suggest SPL. Customer service and the quality is amazing.

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axiomatik

I don't understand what you are trying to say.

original post mentioned:
comment by sulik:
notice that chrischeezer says: "Drift Works makes some pretty serious stuff." He obviously likes their products and is complimenting them.

He then goes on to give his thoughts on where it's important to use quality parts, and where to cheap out.

Then, in a new paragraph (notice it starts on a new line), he says that he is not a fan of chinese stuff. It is a comment completely unrelated to his earlier comment praising Drift Works.

sulik, who either skimmed it over quickly or has poor reading comprehension skills, assumed that chrischeezer was saying that Drift Works is china-made. That is obviously not the case, and I pointed out that fact in my earlier post.

This concludes today's lesson in reading comprehension.

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az24tsx

SPL seems to be one of the top S chassis susp. manufacturers, their products are legit but how do they stack against Ikeya, Dmax, or Cusco?

mrchomponthis

another thread full of insults, bias and nothing more than waste of space on zilvia. mods please close/ lock "shakes head"

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CHOMPONWHAT?

az_240

I have spl, bings, and cusco arms.... SPL are my favorite out of those but any of the higher end stuff will be fine.

ManoNegra

SPL or Peak Performance
quality materials, quality finishes, quality made, quality heims, quality made in the USA
/thread

flossyrobinson

With all the current sales of arm packages I have been thinking about picking up some adjustable arms.

I really just need RUCA's and toe arms so i can take out some of the camber and correct toe that i have from lowering it (s14 w/ silk road coils and swift springs) but still considering one of the packages currently for sale on this site.

I dont daily my car, track it when i can and Im not the BEST drifter/driver and not tryin to win any competitions, just have some fun!

So with that said, will I notice a difference between an arm from God Speed, Yamato Garage, PBM, etc?

I've been tryin to read up as much as i have time for and the biggest difference seems to be the heim joints(Aside from R&D) But i dont know if that will effect the feel or just how the arms hold up over time?

WERDdabuilder

well from reading another thread...i think the colors of the arms make them legit!

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510-SR20DET

^this guy is a moron. i think the arms which have the shiniest color win.

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Originally Posted by EDaciouSX
You should fix your opor grammar.

WISH ONE

the arms with the most paint runs on them are the best, that means the put alot of paint on them so it will never come off, alot of paint makes arms stronger.

mrchomponthis

godspeed the end

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CHOMPONWHAT?

!Zar!

I've always liked SPL's stuff. But PBM and BV stuff is chill as well.

Kazama links can rot in a trashcan.

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