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#62 | |||
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Zilvia Member
![]() Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Wilmington, NC
Age: 35
Posts: 299
Trader Rating: (3)
![]() Feedback Score: 3 reviews
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Oh god no! dont say it looks like a mustang lol. Thanks. The coupe has just been sitting for a few days. I'v been busy moving everything out of the shop I have been working at and into the garage at my apartment. Also I have been starting up a cut vinyl/custom t-shirt business so that has been taking up any spare moment I have. The dual fuel pump setup is almost done, still haven't ordered a water pump. I'm anxious to get it running again, just taking care of life for the next few weeks. Should all pay off in the end. |
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#63 |
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Zilvia FREAK!
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There's some awesome stuff going on in this tread. Just saw the video nice. I super wanna see more of the truck it looks to be freaking sweet.
And lol now that it was mentioned it does kinda look like a 98ish mustang. I thinly it s the lines of the hood where it raises on each side and the rounded lights. Still dope though, keep up the good work man. |
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#68 |
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Zilvia Member
![]() Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Wilmington, NC
Age: 35
Posts: 299
Trader Rating: (3)
![]() Feedback Score: 3 reviews
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I love the odyssey front, but the whole front end/light situation came about by the need of cheaper parts. I would have kept it a silvia front if some one on ebay made $50 cheap ass headlights like they do for everything else. I can repair fenders, and I can repair bumpers, but I cant fix broken glass.
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#69 |
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Zilvia Member
![]() Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Wilmington, NC
Age: 35
Posts: 299
Trader Rating: (3)
![]() Feedback Score: 3 reviews
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It's been a while, but I finally did something. Water pump is replaced, dual fuel pumps are plumed in, and the new manifold and turbo are on.
Huge thanks to Ron at RLD Fab for the hookup on the manifold. this thing is truly a work of art. Tonight I am making the new downpipe and waste gate dumps. Eventually I would like to rework the hot pipe to wrap around things a little better, but it works for now. |
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#70 |
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Zilvia Member
![]() Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Wilmington, NC
Age: 35
Posts: 299
Trader Rating: (3)
![]() Feedback Score: 3 reviews
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MORE STUFF HAPPENED!
Easy to get excited about because it doesn't seem to happen much any more. I went 5 lug on the rear so i could get wheels that fit how I wanted. Ordered 2 pair of Varrstoen ES2 wheels. 17x9.5 et12 and a 1" spacer. I need tow adjust arms in the rear to get the rear aligned where I want it. I adjusted my ride height, corner balanced it, and aligned it as close to my specs as I could then went drifting! Hit the Ready Set Drift event at limerock speedway on July 26th and had a fucking blast. The ramp up to the event kept telling me to just back out... but I just couldn't let myself miss another event. 2 days before I was set to go my nistune ecu burn out an injector driver. After frantically searching for a replacement z32 ecu I took a chance and plugged in my stock rb25 ecu. It fired up and ran surprisingly well. Crisis averted. The next day on my way to work, the water pump on my suburban decided to go bad, so I spent an hour convincing my dad to tow the trailer to CT for me. Thankfully he agreed and I loaded up ready to go. I don't have many pics because I just recently replaced my phone, but here is one as proof that it actually happened. Had a few bugs through the day, but all in all I was very happy. The car ran amazingly well for 23psi and 740cc injectors on a stock un-tuned ecu. We got a new pet after the track day Since then, the GF worked on her car a bit. RX8's apparently have connection issues and the electric power steering stops working. This car has more quirks than any vehicle i have ever had to deal with. I made some vector art Cut some stickers Designed some other ones Got a flat tire in a construction zone and fucked up the fender on the truck. Got my 89 hatchback mostly together and on the ground for the first time in about 3 years. Still have to put my sr20 in it, but it is almost ready to sell. Drove the coupe around fro a bit, then fell asleep. Yup, somehow this ended up being comfortable. Then the other day I put everything but the front lip on it to make it complete. I think I am going to put the front flares back on. The front wheels stick out just a little too much. I am very anxious to repaint it this winter. I don't hate the haggard and destroyed look it has developed, but I can't wait to see it all repaired. My new z32 ecu will be here tomorrow. Expect dyno footage this weekend. |
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#73 |
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Nissanaholic!
![]() Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Minneapolis, MN
Posts: 2,169
Trader Rating: (8)
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Feedback Score: 8 reviews
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This car is too awesome. I'd keep the front flares off though, it might look weird. With just the rear flares it looks awesome. Though maybe I'll be wrong.
I love how different it is. Keep it up! |
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#75 | |||
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Zilvia Member
![]() Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Wilmington, NC
Age: 35
Posts: 299
Trader Rating: (3)
![]() Feedback Score: 3 reviews
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Silvia headlights are just stupid expensive for what they are. They don't exist in my area, and anyone that brings them in wants $300+ for ones with broken tabs. If some one made shitty ebay headlights for a silvia like they do everything else, I would be all over them. These were $40 for a pair, and available at the local junk yard for about $30 a piece if i break one. If it weren't for the fact that the car came with a silvia front on it already it wouldn't have one at all. Looks just aren't the top priority on this project. Thanks for the input guys, I'll have another update soon. |
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#76 |
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Zilvia Member
![]() Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Wilmington, NC
Age: 35
Posts: 299
Trader Rating: (3)
![]() Feedback Score: 3 reviews
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Made some of these last night. Still have to make the driver's side, and some spacers to hold things in place. Can't wait to be able to align this thing properly.
I have about $80 into all 4 arms, most of that is in the rod ends. |
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#77 |
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Zilvia Member
![]() Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Wilmington, NC
Age: 35
Posts: 299
Trader Rating: (3)
![]() Feedback Score: 3 reviews
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NEW PARTS!
I have been working with Ron from RLD Fabrication on some caster camber plates for the s-chassis, and i cant wait to get a finished design done and tested. The first prototype seems to work and fit very well, but I have a few changes I would like to make. For the last year I have been running my Tein camber plates rotated to adjust some caster. I liked the change and wanted to go further, but I didnt want to move my tire and wheel any closer to the firewall, as clearance is tight already. So I measured some, and drew up some plans. It took a few tries, but we got most of the small adjustments worked out on a test sheet of stainless. Here is the final prototype fit to a set of Tein superdrift coilovers. Marked out the full swing of adjustment. Then cut a hole. And here is the important stuff. Static camber: Full lock: New steering angle: My front setup is RLD Fab Caster/Camber mounts, 1.5" extended s13 LCAs, PBM gen 1 weld on angle kit, Ikea Formula inner tie rods, Moog s14 outters, Moved the steering rack 1" forward. I am anxious to order in some newPBM forged knuckles because I know I can pull more angle out of this setup. The Caster/Camber mounts have the ability to adjust camber by choosing which bolt location you use in the plate. There is about 1.5" of camber adjustment at the top depending on which hole you use. Camber should be able to be fine tuned with the slotted upper spindle mount, or an adjustable LCA. |
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#79 |
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Zilvia Junkie
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#80 |
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Leaky Injector
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Mt Maunganui, New Zealand
Age: 37
Posts: 84
Trader Rating: (0)
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Interesting to see how the changes make it feel, and if the wheel self-counters as easily as it did before the changes.
Did you choose this method to avoid the excessive static camber you get when slotting the lower mount bolt holes? |
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#82 | ||||
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Zilvia Member
![]() Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Wilmington, NC
Age: 35
Posts: 299
Trader Rating: (3)
![]() Feedback Score: 3 reviews
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I chose this method to keep a flatter contact patch from lock to lock. I couldnt adjust caster with the LCA because I am already very close to the firewall with my wheel/tire setup. This will allow me to keep running a decently meaty front tire and still have the caster correction. Quote:
I didn't do a whole lot this weekend. Late last week I decided I hated the black hood. Got my hands on a s14 hood and I like it better, so it will stay till I decide what I am going to do with the front end. Pic of the back of the car with the rear camber and tow fixed. Kinda made a paint booth of sorts to spray some bike fairings. and that's about what my weekend consisted of. I am going to make the last few changes to the caster plates tonight. Thursday I believe I am taking it to get tuned so I have to have everything on the suspension worked out by then. Can't wait to see what this thing is going to put out for numbers. |
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#84 |
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Leaky Injector
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Mt Maunganui, New Zealand
Age: 37
Posts: 84
Trader Rating: (0)
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Feedback Score: 0 reviews
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I'm running a similar setup to you (RB25 in an S13) and am doing more research into front end grip so will be following with interest.
I found with running BC Gold front coils that the top bolt on the bottom mount was slotted. So by running this at max negative it would give a better contact patch on lock but static camber caused wandering just like you described. To improve the contact patch further I was going to start increasing castor (pushing wheel towards firewall) with the adjustable castor rods and reducing space if the wheel got close to the rear half of the wheel arch. But but after seeing your results I'll try your method of rotating the strut top as it doesnt change the angle of the tie rod as much. My front setup is knuckles modified with shortened tie rod pick up points on standard S13 lower arms, 9" wide wheels with +22 offset and a 25mm spacer (effective offset of -3). After you rotated the front camber plates around to change the castor angle, did you notice a reluctance for it to self correct? (ie you had to wind the wheel back?) |
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#85 | |
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Zilvia Member
![]() Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Wilmington, NC
Age: 35
Posts: 299
Trader Rating: (3)
![]() Feedback Score: 3 reviews
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Thank you, glad you enjoyed it.
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#86 |
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Zilvia FREAK!
![]() Join Date: May 2007
Location: Rochester NY
Age: 41
Posts: 1,331
Trader Rating: (1)
![]() Feedback Score: 1 reviews
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This build thread is so awesome. It's amazing the unrecognized talent so close to me. I kinda wanna bring you something to work on just because. lol. But seriously, great work man. Hope to run into you at an event some time.
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@be_henney kranstogram is full of nonsense and foolishness. |
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#87 |
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Leaky Injector
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Mt Maunganui, New Zealand
Age: 37
Posts: 84
Trader Rating: (0)
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Feedback Score: 0 reviews
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That's good to hear, will do the same and see how i go. I'll measure the camber of the wheel when on lock before and after, and see what difference in angle i get too. Will come down to clearance of the tie rod ends against the LCA's though.
I'm finding the tendency of an s-chassis fitted with a 6 cylinder to "push" the front when initiating means front end grip is crucial. I'd fathom a guess that 60% of the block/weight is in front of the front axis and is causing this, as opposed to 30% with an SR. Pushing the LCA's/hubs/wheels further back to improve contact patch isnt going to help this front axis issue, so by pulling the top mount forward looks to be the best move on all counts. Thanks for your help. If you're ever holidaying in New Zealand let me know! |
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#88 | ||
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Zilvia Member
![]() Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Wilmington, NC
Age: 35
Posts: 299
Trader Rating: (3)
![]() Feedback Score: 3 reviews
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I 100% agree. If the car isnt set properly into the corner the car continues its straight line. I do like the way my car pendulums around the front wheels during transition more than my ka cars have. I honestly never thought about the advantage of moving the strut top forward in that sense. My main concern was firewall clearance. Now i am even more excited to try these out. With an adjustable stabilizer bar I could really change the weight distribution of the car. If you are interested I can attach my ride heights and corner balance information from the last time I had the car on the scales. That was pre adjustable rear arms, and pre caster plates. I am hoping to re-scale and corner balance the car this week so I can post updated information from the changes. If I am ever in NZ I will for sure hit you up! I don't have the faintest of when that would ever be though lol. |
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#89 |
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Leaky Injector
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Mt Maunganui, New Zealand
Age: 37
Posts: 84
Trader Rating: (0)
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Feedback Score: 0 reviews
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I'm probably a little more on the form side of the form-function spectrum to you with this car, but starting to slide towards function if i don't have to sacrifice form.
As a result i'm not going to start playing with ride heights in order to change corner weights to improve grip, not at this stage anyway. I think i've got a lot more to get out of the rear subframe still by reducing camber, raising the subframe for better arm swing and going back to 6kg springs, and maybe even 4kg or 5kg springs. As well as changing to an S14 or S15 subframe for better anti squat. What power are you hoping to make out of it with the big turbo? |
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#90 | |
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Zilvia Member
![]() Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Wilmington, NC
Age: 35
Posts: 299
Trader Rating: (3)
![]() Feedback Score: 3 reviews
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