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S Chassis Technical discussion related to the S Chassis such as the S12, S13, S14, and S15.


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Old 08-07-2012, 03:21 AM   #31
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McMaster-Carr

Is this the one you're talking about? I see the max temperature is 500F.
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Old 08-07-2012, 07:09 AM   #32
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that may work i am going to get something like that.
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Old 08-07-2012, 08:59 AM   #33
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Cool. I wasnt sure if it would withstand the heat. Thanks to everyone for all the responses and help with this. I'll let y'all know how it all works out for me. I'll probably be cutting the tubing today and pulling the header out, and order that tubin tonight. Good luck with yours, tap.
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Old 08-07-2012, 03:03 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Butcher240sx View Post
Don't remove the egr unless you retune your ecu. Leave it on functioning. If his idle got better its because something was wrong with the egr. Factory put it there and tuned for it. All you get is 2hp worse fuel economy and less longevity of your engine. Also won't pass visual or emissions inspection.
I take pride in passing a sniffer test. These aren't old muscle cars, they should run clean.

Technically speaking, anything you do to your engine as far as upgrading ,modifying, or removing should in turn require you to get a tune. However , this is not realistic to most .

If you have to undergo SMOG testing , sure keep up with your evap/smog system.
If you don't (such as myself, in FL) then choose if you want it or not. Theirs plenty of factors that should be taken accounted for.
Either way if you remove it ,making sure its recirculated properly is very important and also understanding the age and design of emissions from back then to current. Alot has changed and theirs alternative to keeping things stock because though it was designed that way, their is a full spectrum of other ways to achieve similar if not better attributes.

In the end its your own project, you choose the direction you want to take it while respectfully making the right decision. But please Butcher240sx if your going to try to educate the user at-least direct it in a way that its suggestive advice and not demanding advice . Give him the information and let him choose his path.

To the users, Good luck with whatever decision you make
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Old 08-07-2012, 06:37 PM   #35
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Well said. Didnt mean to come across with anything but advice. Take it or leave it. I just see to many zipted cars, jerry rigged and running like shit. That hose should be fine. The pair vale if deleted has a length of heat resistant hose on it.
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Old 08-12-2012, 10:12 AM   #36
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Well, hose is ordered, and hopefully fixing it sometime this week. I have to drill out a broken stud in the block, and had to drop the header down in order to get to it. So, I'll let y'all know how everything works out. Thank you for all of your input and advice.
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Old 08-24-2012, 01:46 PM   #37
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you know i just decided keep the EGR plug on my headers and T off the other hose that comes from the lower position on the header for the other emissions system. whatever that system is call that bolts onto the driver's side strut. i will have pictures up if over the weekend if needed. oh and the EGR tube is 5/8" ID, fyi.
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Old 08-27-2012, 12:12 PM   #38
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Any updates!
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Old 08-30-2012, 11:14 AM   #39
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Any updates!
Yes, hooked up the EGR piping etc and my car ran light crap. Now i need to troubleshoot my EGR system.
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Old 09-01-2012, 06:16 PM   #40
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Only update I have is that I went to start it up to move it around for that hurricane that just came through, and it wouldn't start. I didn't have the tubing all hooked up, so I'm guessing that is why. Next step is to get some high heat hose or something and hook it all up like before, and see what happens.
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