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| Engine Tech Technical discussion related to all relevant engines such as KA, SR, RB, CA, 2JZ , L24/26/28, VG, VQ, and LSx series. |
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#1 |
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Leaky Injector
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knock knock, who's there? cylinder #2.
sooo, quick story and question. i'm not looking for a definitive answer, just opinions from others and WHY. what i will do will, of course, be what i want to do in hindsight of all this.
now i love this chassis. it was my first car and i've kept it on the side since. i'm going to keep it. the motor can come and go, i don't mind. but in the end, drive-able is what i want it to be; not a project sitting on the side for periods of time on end. personally, i love l4 turbocharged motors. so maybe it's safe to say i'm sticking with the sr20det and all of it's glorious flaws. keeping in mind, here in hawaii, we don't have a track. i don't have a need to build a race car, but to some...why not? to each their own; that is why i want to hear from you guys. what would you do? i have a light rod knock in cyl 2. early stages, i suppose. it began with me thinking GEEEEE, my chain rattles at 2500 rpm. irritating, but i'll deal. few months down the road, i've noticed it got a little more audible. not so much LOUDER, in a sense. and by pulling injector plug #2, voila`, subaru silencio. i'm pulling it out to get it over with. now here there are many things that could be done. just cylinder #2's rod bearings, all rod bearings, all bearings and thrust washers, pistons, rods, the whole bottom end, all that love and more. don't post saying what you should do, we all know what we should do and it's bank breaking. yes. no, tell me what YOU would do. even if it ends up being what should be done, at least it was honestly what you would do with your budget and income. reading further isn't necessary, but if you for some reason want to hear more on what i want out of the car to determine what you would do, be my guest! i love street drifting. it's really all we have here. that being said, i love response. i prefer it over power. i mean, i like racing too. i'm sure we all have at some point in time. but with our island being so small, our freeways don't stretch so far in safe intervals to really need build freeway tuned motors lol. i never had it planned to do anything more internally than pistons, honestly. and even that was literally just for peace of mind. i was going to be happy with the simple 250hp 300tq setup that my friend had on his s13; the car that sparked my love for sr20det's. i only planned to reach that and maybe one step further. so do i need a full rebuild? no, i don't. it would create more reliability/longevity, yes, and so it can be considered, which is why i would like to hear your opinions and even your stories. was it worth it? would you have done something differently in hindsight? i don't care if you reply with a 12 chapter book, ill read all that shit. it does nothing but help me in one way or another. i'm open to questions, if needed. ![]() |
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#3 |
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Post Whore!
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Rebuilding a motor isn't cheap. In the long run, it'll be cheaper if you rebuild the entire bottomend, instead of just replacing/repairing #2.
I would rebuild the entire motor not only for the above reasons and extra costs of opening a motor twice, but for reliability as well. You can get plenty of response out of these motors if you aren't shooting for the moon. The GTX2867R seems to be the cats meow these days. Not only are they more potent than the 2871R of years past, but they spool quicker too. Swapping in an LSX isn't going to cheap, not to mention they have oiling issues themselves.
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My SR20VET |
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#4 | |
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Leaky Injector
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Quote:
Of your whole response, this intrigued me most. I was never a fan of that ever so slight lack of response from even the .64 trim 2871R. The way you think it'll kick in....NOW, but only after you think wtf wher---skadoosh. I've yet to ride in something with a GTX2867R. Let alone hear about it. Shows how long I've been away from forums. And yes, I do see all of the points you made. Is it crazy to say down here people just prefer to buy another sr? |
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#5 | |
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Post Whore!
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Quote:
#/f/showthread.php?t=432611 There is also a GTX2863R that is more responsive/lower overall peak power than the 2871R
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My SR20VET |
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#6 |
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Zilvia FREAK!
![]() Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: SoCal/Ft Worth TX
Age: 27
Posts: 1,549
Trader Rating: (5)
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I had the same issue as you. Light rod knock and eventually I just blew a rocker arm off and called it a day, deciding to rebuild the whole motor. If I had to put a number on it, the whole rebuild probably cost me about 1400. This included ACL main & rod bearings as well as thrust washers, new rings, hone, deck the head, new oil pump, arp headstuds, poncams, new rocker arms, lifters and a used t28. The motor runs great now and I'm pretty sure I make somewhere in the low 300s on 15 psi. Well worth the money and time spent.
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#7 | |
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Leaky Injector
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Quote:
This is a fantastic response. That sounds like a very reasonable price for what you got done. It's crazy how machine shops in Hawaii can twist your arm to squeeze more cash out of you since there are only a select few. Ahh a new oil pump. That completely slipped my mind! Goodness. |
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#8 | |
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Zilvia Junkie
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Quote:
__________________
Juan Vargas - Motorsports Specialist Fontana Nissan/Nissanraceshop.com
email: [email protected] Scott's Personal Website/Blog: http://www.scottandkerryann.com |
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#9 |
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Leaky Injector
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Alright well, I've settled on a few things here.
OEM full gasket set OEM piston rings OEM oil pump ring gears OEM thrust washers ACL race main & rod bearings Apexi head gasket .8 ARP head studs Tsubaki OE timing chain kit Deck and hone the head |
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