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| Tech Talk Technical Discussion About The Nissan 240SX and Nissan Z Cars |
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05-08-2010, 06:40 PM
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#31 |
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Zilvia Member
 
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When I was having this problem my rpms would drop down to the point the car wanted to die once I let of the gas, with the car @ idle I would give it gas and slowly little by little I would tightend the adjusment screw on the bov to the point the rpms would drop slowly instead of rapidly to where it used to almost stall the car, if that's not doing it for you must have a leak somewhere.
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05-08-2010, 06:48 PM
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#32 |
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Leaky Injector
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sorry im a little confused.. your saying while your at idle and you rev the engine, the rpms drop until it almost dies ? or when your driving ?
when im at idle and rev my engine it does drop to about 500rpms maybe. it was doing it really bad but we played with the timing so it doent really anymore. my rps also go crazy sometimes it will be idling at 900 and sometimes it will idle at 1500. its weird |
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05-08-2010, 07:36 PM
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#33 | |
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Post Whore!
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Las Vegas
Age: 36
Posts: 4,590
Trader Rating: (53)
  Feedback Score: 53 reviews
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05-08-2010, 07:40 PM
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#34 |
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Zilvia Member
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Idle would drop when driving and also once the car was warmed up, but I did the adjusment on bov with the car parked. When I was experiencing a leak, it was coming from my break booster, when pumping my brakes my idle would fluctuate, car would idle between 850 to 1200.
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05-08-2010, 07:49 PM
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#35 |
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Leaky Injector
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well its a t3 turbo... so i need too loosten my bov then, which means its not my bov.
and the sound im hearing when i start to boost sounds like compresser surge.. so if its compresser suge that im hearing while going into boost what could be causing that ? would a boost leak make it have compresser surge ? |
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05-11-2010, 07:13 AM
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#38 |
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Post Whore!
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You said you have a GReddy type manifold, and only have 1 source for vacuum right now...
Did you plug all the other holes? There are like 3 or 4 holes on the bottom of the manifold IIRC, and if you only put 1 nipple there, what did you do with the other holes? BTW, you never tee off the line for the BOV. BOVs need their own dedicated vacuum lines to work right. I've preached that sentence for years on here now. |
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05-11-2010, 07:25 AM
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#39 |
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Leaky Injector
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yeah i plugged them i was meaning i only had one available, but i added another nipple. i have my fpr and boost gauge teed together onto the mani, and the bov to the mani, and my wastegate to my compressor in my turbo. is this write ?
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05-11-2010, 07:49 AM
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#47 |
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Post Whore!
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OK, my question is... what is your timing set to?
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05-11-2010, 08:33 AM
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#49 |
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Post Whore!
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Well, reason why I'm asking is, you could be off a tooth with the chain/cam gears, and you can THINK it's at 15 degrees, but it isn't.
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05-11-2010, 09:06 AM
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#51 |
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Post Whore!
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The light might... depends on the light.
Seems like the general consensus is that the cheaper the timing light, the better it works. |
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05-11-2010, 11:19 AM
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#53 |
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Post Whore!
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Well, I don't know if it'll read right or not then.
Many people have reported that the more expensive lights for some reason don't pick up the signal correctly and will be out of phase. |
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05-11-2010, 08:07 PM
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#54 |
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Leaky Injector
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well its not the light. we pulled the valve cover off and everything was set perfect. we pressurized the intercooler pipinging and it was good. we litterally checked everything lol. now we think we have a faulty program so thursday we are going to hook up a data link and see whats going on in that bitch box. lol well unless anyone has more ideas ? and thanks for the help man
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