dnbwithweed

Sup guys as always i turn to zilvia for your advice and tips...
well im going to paint my car today and my plan was to use spray paint and spray the car sand it then repeat process 3 times. i heard it should come out pretty good. As my car is already primered and ready to go.any warnings or tips i should know about..anyone wanna help? advice welcomed!
ill post pics of the progress tommorow.

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I would drag race too, If i didnt know how to drift.
ok, so i dont!

pr0ject TRUENO

Make sure your coats are even, minimize contact with dust, and wet sand.

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dnbwithweed

well yeah i know about wet sanding and polishing and all that but any other pieces of advice?even coats wont be a problem im gonna take it slow and make shure all is even...

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I would drag race too, If i didnt know how to drift.
ok, so i dont!

broken240sx

agreed on the even coats and wet sanding...

we had decent results using those black handle things that you can pop on top of the spray cans, plus its easier on your hand/finger

if you take your time and sand enough, you'll be fine, its a very tedious job

good luck

dnbwithweed

o i seen those things...hmm...those trigger things look tight...maybe i will get one...think keeping the spray cans warm with hot water will help thin out the paint too?

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I would drag race too, If i didnt know how to drift.
ok, so i dont!

OBEEWON

I love to see people doing it themselves. Put those overpriced body shops out of business. Good luck.

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apexhumper

Hmm...interesting. Can you do clearcoats yourself too? I'd love to see pics of the process and finished results, good luck hope it turns out great.

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Dont sweat the petty things, pet the sweaty things.

ohspizzill

or set it on a hot plate. but keep warm and shake very well every time. good luck.

kensreliableb18b

oo yea, after spraying for a while, switching back and forth on different fingers, you're gonna want that pretty bad ***experience not car related; i was spray painting my back yard table and chairs***

'90RPS13

I too am spray my car down this week(end). Prep is a bitch but pays off.

I did these in order: 80, 100, 320

What should be the last grit before paint? 1000, 1200?

ixfxi

get a compressor.

jesus, whats with all the spray can bullshit - that stuff is toy. bodyshops CHARGE because they have spray booth, compressor, and all the (very expensive) tools to get the job done right. if people would spend hours mickey mousing with spray cans, they'de never make a fuckin buck NOR would they do the job right.

seriously, i feel like im one of the few people that keep this place from becomming like the AE86 forums - a forum where people publicly accept ghetto bullshit.

xkamikazestormx

spray can will never EVER EVER have the same results as using a gun.

btw have you ever seen what people do at a bodyshop (not some maaco shit)

it is very very labor intensive. i thought it was expensive but now that im doing it, its actually pretty cheap. so like he said if you want ghetto shit go ahead. letting you know ahead of time, it wont be the same

asiangento

krylon rust tough... sprays good.

koukimonster139

my opinion is dont spray paint on your fucking car. there are so many other cool ways to make it look trailer trash spec.

if you do spray paint it though, make sure you write "Danger Cart" down the side of it ahhahaa ATHF

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ho ha ho chi chi

apexhumper

We have spray booths at my school for projects, wonder if theyd mind if someone were to take car panels in there to spray haha

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Dont sweat the petty things, pet the sweaty things.

Phlip

I agree with the "don't do it" set...
If you MUST do it yourself, ask EVERY friend you know if you can borrow a compressor, buy a real (even if cheap) gun from harbor freight and at least make it a little easier on yourself.
Was your paint THAT bad that you'd spray paint it instead of doing things the right way? I know mine isn't, and mine is FAR from cherry.

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And I write too!

ThatGuy

DO NOT use rattlecans to paint your car if you want it to look good.

TRUST ME!

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Irukandji

There's a difference between "Doing it yourself" and "Fucking it up yourself".
In this case, its probably the latter.
And those "overpriced body shops" won't go out of business because some kid spray paints his car, if anything, the car will remind people not to do the same.

Reos77

If your going to spray paint the car yourself make sure you sand your primer correctly. Sanding your primer gives it some tooth whick you paint can stick too. Your prep work in the primer stage reflects the outcome of your top coat(Paint). Try sanding with 180 to rough out your primer, then 220, 320, and if needed 400 and 600 grit. Only use the 180 if your primer is uneven and thick in some places and in thin in others. While wet sanding your primer use a soft block or a long bord never use just your bare hand. The uneveness of your hand can create grooves and a soft block can help guarntee an even painting surface. A thing that can help you determine an even surface is a guide coat. You can get in powder of spray form but i reccomend powder. Like said before use even coats of paint and make sure you panint everthing at the same time, this guarantees even matching coat. Buy and enamel paint with a fan tip. A round tip is too thin and uneven, the fan tip will give the closes to sray gun coverage. Make sure to use a 50% overlap . Also if you did your bodywork yourself make sure that you cant see any sand scratches from the sand paper. When sanding you filler start off with 40 grit to rough out the filler than work your way to 180 grit. Going from to 80 than lastly 180. Hope all turns out well and sorry for the lone response, but it kills me people just talk shit on this forum and never help. But like every one else said a body shop is the best choice, and if your going to do things yourself make sure have an understanding and the proper tools for the best results.

babowc

well..
i actually 'rolled' my paint on last time around..

it was pretty easy and came out decent.
nothing show quality nor $1000 paintjob, but pretty damn decent for what it is.

like with any painting procedure, you'll be involved in prep and sanding and wetsanding after/between coats. Then buff/polish/waxing.

It'll be a fun process if you have some basic knowledge and dont fuck up, but it'll get annoying quick if you have short temper/no patience.

ms!3

lol. flat black looks good even tho after awhile it turns grey. any basic flat color usually looks fine as long as you have nice accessories to go along with it. dont expect to get gloss and a streak free shine by using spray cans to the OP.

fromxtor

Eastwood is selling a 3-gun paint set for 199.99.
http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?i...emType=PRODUCT

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Nikeboy355

Do not paint your car with a spray can... Rent a paint booth or use a garage...

thejapino

IF you ABSOLUTELY have to spray paint your car, PREP and DON"T RUSH are the best tips i could give you. How is your current paint? You said its already primered right? How was it prepped before the primer job? This will determine how your rattlecan job will turn out.

1. wash your car using dishwashing soap to degrease the paint & remove wax and buildup

2. scuff your car using 300-400 grit sandpaper to create a "tooth" so the next layer of paint adheres to it. don't skimp out on this step b/c the first place where new paint chips off was the place you didn't scuff enuff. if your paint was nice & shiny, you want to get all of the shine off of the clearcoat. it'll look hazy when done correctly (minimal reflection). wash and dry it again

3. mask off places you dont want paint to get on. if you can remove it, it would be better (example - taillights, headlights, glass, washer nozzles, grill, mirrors, trim, etc.) this step is where hard work pays off. take your time and don't rush this step. also, its important to use quality masking tape b/c cheap masking tape leaves rough lines and sometimes doesn't come off! good masking paper is important too b/c paint bleeds thru newspaper.

4. clean your painting area. mop up the floor b/c all of the dust you've just created will get blown up by the aerosol while painting. before painting, use paint prep degreaser to wipe down the car. oil from your hands get on the car while sanding, the paint prep degreaser removes it (if you don't get oil off the car, paint will not stick there for very long). you could get this stuff from a local automotive paint supply store. right before spraying use a tack rag to remove specs of dust & sand from the surface. use a good mask so you dont kill that many brain cells

5. follow the directions on the can! they are there for a reason. your first coat should never cover the surface entirely. if it does, you're spraying too thick too early. shake the shit out of the can often. also, in between coats, invert the can and press the nozzle to clear it. Dont rush!!! let coats dry according to directions on the can. use that tack rag after the coat drys and before your next coat

6. some paint will allow you to wetsand in between coats & others do not. again, check the directions on the can. its called wetsanding b/c you use water while sanding to wash away grit and dust AND to lubricate the sandpaper. first stage of wetsanding may be around 600 grit. use a wetsanding block if you can. again, your goal is to scuff the surface to remove the shine. your final coat will stick to a 600 grit tooth created by wetsanding. if you've been handling the surface while sanding, another paint prep degreaser wipe down couldn't hurt. dont forget the tack rag before shooting the final coat.

7. your final coat is usually your wet coat. you'll want maximum coverage here but be careful not to let the paint run. after painting let this paint cure. the directions on the can will tell you how long you'll have to wait. avoid washing/touching/smudging/wiping the paint during this time.

8. by now, your paint is probably shiny but has "orange peel". if your paint surface is pretty flat, skip the next step and just hand polish the car. to remove orange peel you have to wetsand again. before doing this make sure you have a good rotary buffer with adjustable speed (not a dual-action b/c it would take too long) and some buffing pads and rubbing/cutting compound. you DO NOT want to wetsand your paint if you dont have this stuff b/c it would take FOREVER to buff out the paint by hand. start with 900-1000 grit paper and wetsand the paint to knock down the high spots. you could tell the surface is ready like so: after wetsanding an area, dry it off. if you still see shiny spots, you have to keep working. those are the low spots. once your paint is completely flat and shine free from wetsanding, you're ready to polish the paint. dry off your car.

9. rubbing/cutting compound acts like a very fine sandpaper when you use it with a rotary buffer. it will flatten out the high spots created by the 1000 grit sandpaper and polish it at the same time. understand this and you will get a better idea of how abrasive it is and how it works. work in a small area at a time (fender, door, etc.). again, follow the directions on the bottle. that will give you the best results.

my tips for you: dont use way too much compound b/c you're gonna have to remove it. remember, if there's not enough compound, you could always add more but if you put too much, you'll have to buff out. low-medium speed works best. dont ever put the buffing pad on the floor b/c you could pick up dirt. dirt on the pad will RUIN your paint when you start buffing again. let the rubbing compound do the work, don't press down too hard on the paint with the buffer. keep the buffer moving and don't stay in one spot too long - it'll get hot and you'll burn the paint that way. be careful on edges too b/c its very easy to burn the paint there. get one panel completely polished before you move on to the next. be patient, your car will be glossy if you're buffing consistently. before you know it, your car will be totally polished and you'll be happy with the shiny wet looking paint.

once you're happy with the results, use a hand polish/protectant to keep the paint shiny. use whatever brand you like. i use all 3m products if i can find it but meguiars is good too.

good luck and happy painting. for all the paint guru's here, please let me know if i missed anything. have fun.

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'90RPS13

So, What if someone is just aiming for the 10ft Paint Job? I could care less about flawlessness, just something that looks decent on the track. So, instead of all the criticism, can we just aim for tips in this thread?

WERDdabuilder

rattle cans for honda owners.

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ixfxi

Then you should wear earplugs, because your friends should clown you for driving a POS.

It doesnt have to be show quality, but is should be at the minimum = QUALITY.

fromxtor

Dammit Alec, you gotta come in here an fuck shit up. You need to be saving up for a paintjob also Mr.

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koukimonster139

lol a $1000 paint job would look like total shit

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ho ha ho chi chi

'90RPS13

Quality when it comes to paint isnt in my book. Does paint help you at the track? Does paint allow you to adjust camber? Does paint come with HP? No, so bite my ass ixfxi.