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S Chassis Technical discussion related to the S Chassis such as the S12, S13, S14, and S15.


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Old 03-07-2013, 12:49 PM   #1
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Getting Horrible MPG's

Recently picked up this pretty beat S14 and i am in the process of restoring it to sound mechanical performance.
It has a SR20DET all stock as far as i know except the GReddy intake manifold.
I've been getting only the worst mpg, i can smell fuel in the cabin when i have the windows down only, I read a similar thread on here but there are so many different possiblilties but never had a solution posted.
I drive about 2k miles a month so i drive between 55 and 65mph 90% of the time so save on fuel, but i still get just horrible results.
This morning for example i put in $40 91 octane Cheveron an it put me at a hair above half a tank, drove 32 miles to work and now its just a hair above quarter of a tank.
I havent noticed an fuel leaking but it could be evaporating quickly.
The tires are huge (F235 R275) but i know that cannot make it that bad.
I'm going to try and get a oil change and replace spark plugs done asap but money has been very tight, so hopefully next week.
Going with NGK Iridium IX spark plugs and 5w30 full synthetic motor oil

I have read it can be a dirty fuel filter but it only smells like fuel inside the car when windows are down, unless that has nothing to do with it.

Ive also read might be an injector not sitting right.

and also a fuel leak some where.

I want to take it to a dealership and just have them look at it not have them repair it cuz i know it would be damn pricey.
Any other opinions you can share i'd greatly appreciate it
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Old 03-07-2013, 12:54 PM   #2
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check the oil to see if it smells of fuel
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Old 03-07-2013, 12:56 PM   #3
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And if it does, what does that mean?
The blow by that comes out of my catch can smells of fuel and oil.
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Old 03-07-2013, 02:08 PM   #4
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Could be your head gasket if the oil smells of fuel. You may go ahead & give it a tune-up, make sure the timing (15-17BTDC @idle) is good & change the oil- couldn't hurt. Also, are the injectors a purplish color? That's what color the stock ones should be.

Check for vac/boost leaks
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Old 03-07-2013, 03:26 PM   #5
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Could be your head gasket if the oil smells of fuel. You may go ahead & give it a tune-up, make sure the timing (15-17BTDC @idle) is good & change the oil- couldn't hurt. Also, are the injectors a purplish color? That's what color the stock ones should be.

Check for vac/boost leaks
Ill check for that thanks, i just rememberd the hood latch broke an i cant pop the hood. fuck my luck
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Old 03-07-2013, 09:36 PM   #6
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Fix all vacuum leaks. Injectors not install correctly = big vacuum leak = poor MPG

Reset the timing

check CTS

Run copper plugs, BKR7E-11, gapped to .025 for now, until you're sorting the issue out. No use ruining iridium plugs if you're running that rich.


Cliffs: If money is too tight to attack the issue asap, I'd sell the car and get a nice Altima or Sentra that gets 35 mpg and just drive it.
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Old 03-08-2013, 12:52 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by codyace View Post
Fix all vacuum leaks. Injectors not install correctly = big vacuum leak = poor MPG

Reset the timing

check CTS

Run copper plugs, BKR7E-11, gapped to .025 for now, until you're sorting the issue out. No use ruining iridium plugs if you're running that rich.


Cliffs: If money is too tight to attack the issue asap, I'd sell the car and get a nice Altima or Sentra that gets 35 mpg and just drive it.
Thanks for the advice ill take everything in except the last part i hate when people tell me that. one step at a time car still drives these nissans are bullet proof
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Old 03-08-2013, 03:34 PM   #8
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Bullet proof right... but does it run normal/smooth?
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Old 03-08-2013, 07:00 PM   #9
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Bullet proof right... but does it run normal/smooth?
i think it runs ok, feels like boost doesnt give its full potential all the time. like some times the car pulls hard and wont even be at wot but most of the time it feels sluggish and like its struggling...
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Old 03-08-2013, 03:39 PM   #10
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don't forget about the o2 sensor. a bad o2 sensor can result is awful fuel mileage.
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Old 03-08-2013, 07:01 PM   #11
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don't forget about the o2 sensor. a bad o2 sensor can result is awful fuel mileage.
where is thee 02 located?
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Old 03-10-2013, 02:16 PM   #12
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where is thee 02 located? [/quote] the o2 sensor is on the top end of the downpipe, above the flex point. I got the same problem, researching as we speak. if I find out where the problem lies in, I'll let y'all know" just checkout my dip stick and f u h " my oil does smell like gas . . .
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Old 03-10-2013, 06:11 PM   #13
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where is thee 02 located?
the o2 sensor is on the top end of the downpipe, above the flex point. I got the same problem, researching as we speak. if I find out where the problem lies in, I'll let y'all know" just checkout my dip stick and f u h " my oil does smell like gas . . .[/QUOTE]

please do let me know thanks!
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Old 03-11-2013, 07:30 AM   #14
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but does it run normal/smooth?
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Old 03-11-2013, 11:11 AM   #15
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but does it run normal/smooth?
i think it runs ok, feels like boost doesnt give its full potential all the time. like some times the car pulls hard and wont even be at wot but most of the time it feels sluggish...
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Old 03-11-2013, 08:26 AM   #16
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Dont put iridium plugs, they cost an arm and a leg and are known to fail earlier than coppers when used with rich mixtures. I cant see why people want to run 60$ plugs when a 10$ one does the job ...

From what you said, i'd say you bought a riced out S14 that needs to be fully rebuilt, which is going to cost money.

I have also read on this forum that removing the EGR valve or using the wrong O2 sensor usually results in running very rich, so that may help you.


But seriously, if you can smell fuel from the catch can, it does not look well ... do a compression check before throwing money at it. Dry, then wet.
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Old 03-11-2013, 11:15 AM   #17
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Dont put iridium plugs, they cost an arm and a leg and are known to fail earlier than coppers when used with rich mixtures. I cant see why people want to run 60$ plugs when a 10$ one does the job ...

From what you said, i'd say you bought a riced out S14 that needs to be fully rebuilt, which is going to cost money.

I have also read on this forum that removing the EGR valve or using the wrong O2 sensor usually results in running very rich, so that may help you.


But seriously, if you can smell fuel from the catch can, it does not look well ... do a compression check before throwing money at it. Dry, then wet.
wow this sounds horrible. Do i have to remove turbo to do compression check properly?
What do you mean riced out. if it needs to be rebuilt im just gonna buy another motor.
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Old 03-11-2013, 12:06 PM   #18
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Quote:
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wow this sounds horrible. Do i have to remove turbo to do compression check properly?
What do you mean riced out. if it needs to be rebuilt im just gonna buy another motor.
compression test is just about removing spark plugs, removing fuel pump fuse, putting a compression tester in each spark plug hole and try to crank . Repeat for each cylinder, and do it with throttle fully open and battery fully charged. That is a dry test.

If results are low, do the test again but add a spoon of oil in each cylinder (by the plug hole) before testing. That is a wet test. If results are now good, your rings are not sealing anymore (means dead rings, or worn pistons/ bores).

A compression tester is worth maybe 20$, get one.

Another cheap thing to get is a product you add to a sample of your coolant. If it changes color, exhaust gases pass through your coolant (which is bad).

riced => ask google, he will tell.

You wont find a decend SR20 that does not need a rebuild, really.
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Old 03-13-2013, 08:12 PM   #19
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You wont find a decend SR20 that does not need a rebuild, really.

100% agree. I think often times new owners tend to forget that the engines they are dealing with are 15 years old, andhave often been abused by 2 owners at this point in their life. Sure people will find a few good ones, but most have toasty rod bearings and washed out ring seal by this point in life
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Old 03-14-2013, 11:13 AM   #20
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100% agree. I think often times new owners tend to forget that the engines they are dealing with are 15 years old, andhave often been abused by 2 owners at this point in their life. Sure people will find a few good ones, but most have toasty rod bearings and washed out ring seal by this point in life
so would you recommend i just rebuild or buy another motor?
I keep debating the issue but im not building a drift or race spec car nor do i have the funds to.
My goal is to have a very fun daily with anywhere from 250-350hp.
I dont plan to keep the car unless i fall in love with it, but i still plan to keep it for 4 or 5 years.
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Old 03-11-2013, 11:30 AM   #21
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Forgot the simple fact that your gauge can be wrong also. Fill to the tip top, not a dollar amount. Stop when the pump stops. Then drive till its empty, do the math from there
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Old 03-11-2013, 11:41 AM   #22
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Forgot the simple fact that your gauge can be wrong also. Fill to the tip top, not a dollar amount. Stop when the pump stops. Then drive till its empty, do the math from there
That's what im thinking but still the rich smell of fuel makes me think otherwise.
I did that when i first got the car a little over a month ago and i got about 230 miles on the tank but im sure i could have pulled off 250 miles because i wasn't sure if the fuel light was working. But its been getting worse since then.
I'm hoping oil change, spark plugs, fuel filter, and some lucus fuel injector cleaner might help. I really hope this isnt too serious
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Old 03-11-2013, 12:18 PM   #23
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Thank you very much for the information, what should the compression readings be at?
could have sworn rice is ugly body kit and fart can exhaust.
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Old 03-11-2013, 03:38 PM   #24
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Something along that line yeah. 275 tires on a beaten up S14 is a good clue, but it may also be a former track car that got sold after getting too many troubles.
Yet a greddy intake manifold is more the sign of a riced car than a tracked car.

Compressions should be around 150psi (10bars). Remember, remove fuel pump fuse, fully charged battery, full throttle, otherwise the reading wont be good.
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Old 03-11-2013, 04:53 PM   #25
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Something along that line yeah. 275 tires on a beaten up S14 is a good clue, but it may also be a former track car that got sold after getting too many troubles.
Yet a greddy intake manifold is more the sign of a riced car than a tracked car.

Compressions should be around 150psi (10bars). Remember, remove fuel pump fuse, fully charged battery, full throttle, otherwise the reading wont be good.
well it does look like signs of track use but when i say beaten up i meant like paint wise. everything else is in pretty good condition. lol why does greddy manifold make it more signs of rice?

i have an external switch that turns on and off the fuel pump. Thanks for the info im gonna do this as soon as i can open the hood...
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Old 03-11-2013, 06:30 PM   #26
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My SR is doing the same thing
:/ & I can't figure it out

I sold my 97 SE Kouki.

To get a 97 SE Kouki w/ A SR Needed the turbo to be replaced
Car was running fine when I bought it
Drove it home 75 miles as soon as I got home. Turbo gasket went out
Got A S15 BB Turbo Replaced all turbo Gaskets put the 3inch Exhaust & Fresh spark plugs fresh oil change & still same Doing the same thing
I did a compression test before I replaced the turbo & gaskets it read 160-160-142-160
Still not running right burns gas like crazy & bogs when trying to accelerate
All vacuum are fine no leaks
Car turns off when it reaches a quarter gas tank no fuel light turns on or nothing
Then I add a gallon of gas & turns right up
Still trying to find the problem
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Old 03-11-2013, 06:53 PM   #27
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Well spartan, Rb26kouki seems like we got the same problem, s h y t! Haha. None the less we must find out what is causing this in our S-chassis, whatever we do Find Out, Experiment or Fail please report back here to the Thread so we can help better understand our Savages Haha" To be Continued....

If we accomplish awesomeness we should meet for some Garbage Burritos lol
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Old 03-11-2013, 06:57 PM   #28
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Well spartan, Rb26kouki seems like we got the same problem, s h y t! Haha. None the less we must find out what is causing this in our S-chassis, whatever we do Find Out, Experiment or Fail please report back here to the Thread so we can help better understand our Savages Haha" To be Continued....

If we accomplish awesomeness we should meet for some Garbage Burritos lol
i will continue to post on here, tho this isnt my only problem with the car im kind of scattering around to get things fixed since it is my daily driver.
getting oil changed hopefully this week. then spark plugs or brakes need to be done as well.

ps i love breakfast burritos.
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Old 03-11-2013, 07:10 PM   #29
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i will continue to post on here, tho this isnt my only problem with the car im kind of scattering around to get things fixed since it is my daily driver.
getting oil changed hopefully this week. then spark plugs or brakes need to be done as well.

ps i love breakfast burritos.
my daily as well, scattering as well... lol
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Old 03-11-2013, 06:56 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rb26kouki View Post
My SR is doing the same thing
:/ & I can't figure it out

I sold my 97 SE Kouki.

To get a 97 SE Kouki w/ A SR Needed the turbo to be replaced
Car was running fine when I bought it
Drove it home 75 miles as soon as I got home. Turbo gasket went out
Got A S15 BB Turbo Replaced all turbo Gaskets put the 3inch Exhaust & Fresh spark plugs fresh oil change & still same Doing the same thing
I did a compression test before I replaced the turbo & gaskets it read 160-160-142-160
Still not running right burns gas like crazy & bogs when trying to accelerate
All vacuum are fine no leaks
Car turns off when it reaches a quarter gas tank no fuel light turns on or nothing
Then I add a gallon of gas & turns right up
Still trying to find the problem
well my car doesnt shut off ever but everything else seems identical, there has got to be someone that has ffixed this problems seems very common.
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