Super_OK_S13

UPDATE TIME!

97nismo- i still have them, they are clean, simple, stock wheels!

Malik- thanks!!



After taking apart the wheels and seperating the bolts into cups, i decided not to chrome plate the lips and bolts since it would be extremely expensive. i had a friend polish the lips and i bought a vibratory tumbler from harbor freight.




Reading online i found out using crushed walnut bedding was not harsh on the chrome and cleaned up the sealant and threads pretty good and got most of the brake dust off but only slightly polished them (even after hours of being in the tumbler) . Reading about aluminum foil being able to clean up "tarnished chrome" without scratching it, i threw some balled up foil in the pot. It kind of helped "polish" but i will need to hand polish 140 of the bolt heads by hand

i'll need to get the o-rings ti seal the valvestems before re-assembly and have to drill a hole in each of the new lips for the valve stems.

BEFORE


DURING



AFTER



Since i ordered an SR Lip from Casale Designs in feb/march 2016 and left it hanging on the garage wall, i decided it was time to finish the look with AREO from DORKI DORI!!! It came at the beginning of December. Well packaged and VERY good quality even just test fitting, it fits very snug!

layed out for test fit.


Getting visual help from Casale designs on the brackets needed to be fabricated, i mocked up and made brackets for the lip,


Still have yet to use the snow blower under the black and white plaid jacket


temporary nuts and bolts before its riveted together






I had to make new fender braces, plus this helped lessen the gap between the lip and around the bumper.


I was too busy working to take pictures but everything fits so tight. Bought some 1/4-20 stainless button head screws to hold them on via riv-nuts in the fender/wheel arches.







Once i was done mocking up the aero i got lazy and didnt do anything for a long while. Then one day my girlfirend and i were picking up parts for her car at Advance Auto and decided to look through the paint cans and saw a silver that struck my eye....


It was the PERFECT MATCH <----- so i danced around like that guy.



Just a pretty bright silver!!



Sand Sand Sand.... 220 for the pitted areas and to strip the old stuff off... then --> 400 so smooth it all out.





White Sealer/Sandable Primer, 2 coats. i left them in my basement for a couple days and then brought them back out to finish them after.



Painted and enough coats of clear for a duplicolor gloss..



In the SUN!!



Left them locked in the basement, and.......


Went to the Farm Show in our grunge/hipster flannels.


Here is Benson, hes's 6, he likes racecars. he fits in the neighborhood better then me with that hat on, all the bitches love him.



After a couple weeks i brought my rear Areo spats inside and started wrapping it with the Gloss Metallic Grey vinyl. i got one done and had to wait till the girlfriend came home and helped with the other, then the next day we wrapped the rest of the areo plus the front and rear bumpers, we did the best we could using a heat gun, without getting wrinkles and using multiple pieces (although you have to look kinda hard to see the overlap unless theres a crazy shadow given off from it) By the way, she's made me the happiest i've EVER been in my life. been together over a year now, im forever ecstatic that she helps me

Izzy is 8, she loooooooves Pictures =/



I got the dogs really hyped up for a car ride.



And off they went! As you see Izzy is holding on and the other 2 are like kids that you swat at in the backseat from trying to get out of their seat.





Teaser of the wheels half-assed put together for a quick shoot.







The Next update will be after all the parts are installed on the car.

tuzzio

bump for updates.

burnsauto

here here! Updates or I call bullshit! Say hi to the pups for me.

__________________

Super_OK_S13

Tuzzio

Burnsauto WOOF



After we wrapped everything in the house, i wrapped the doors, parts of the rocker/jambs, and rear quarters. I applied the black stripe. still hover car status.




I put the stock wheels on and pulled it outside. i really like OEM + cars, subtle, clean,simple style is for me.





So, after putting together the wheels, i used clear gutter sealant for aluminum gutters. I spun the wheels on a front hub as i filled the gap where the barrel,lip, and face come together. as soon as i was done i used a body filler card to flatten the excess and push the rest into the groove. after that, i laid them out in the sun to cure for a couple hours.




After my tires came. i took them to a friend i trusted with mounting them.



225/45/17 on the 9 inch rears. 215/45/17 on the 8.5 inch fronts.


I didnt really take that many pics of assembly or fitment. i left all the same specs as far as aligntment (camber/toe) from the Saleen SC reps.





I also added a glass pack after the cat AND a muffler tip. ^ see picture above on floor.



its definitely more quiet and i like the look of a factory style tip with my 90's/OEM+ theme.


I brought the car outside and washed the MONTHS of dust off the car since it was warming up.





Yeeaaaaahhhhhh!!!! clean



In front of my paps garage, where i first installed the silvia frontend.


im very humble about my ride, it pleases me and thats all that matters. im not a trophy chaser, i just like to inspire others with my style and mediocre at best work.

The guys from Lowlife x Junkstyles liked my wheels so much they gave me a "best wheels" skate board deck at their Spring Breakdown show. Very Honored since there were many other nice wheel builds there!





All i really do is just drive it around which is why i built the car.







I Finally made a couple more brackets for the lip in the center. This is the factory mounting point. It attaches to the holes in the plastic part of the bumper by the lower core support.



Nothing really changed in the engine bay yet. I bought new stainless, button allen head hardware and finish wahsers for the fenders and the core support end brackets instead of hex bolts. Also swapped out the CUSCO mounts for JGS rubber mounts. The CUSCO are too solid and i was sick of the vibrations from them.



im thinking of smoothing out some of the edges along the wheel tubs and under the fenders, over the winter, re-spraying the engine bay a Bright pearl white and nickle plating the engine hardware. Engine needs new timing chains and/or tensioner/guides, they are making some noise. maybe get/bend up new front bolt-in cage bars and paint the cage with the bay.

other than that im super happy just driving it around!

TheRealSy90

This car is just too perfect on the outside. It reminds me of like an Akina Speedstars car from Initial D. Just minimal exterior mods, very nice looking.

__________________

tuzzio

10/10 car is still awesome.

afishysilvia

Life goals...When you can have your aero in the living room without your S/O getting upset. EXTREMELY clean ride.

Super_OK_S13

TheRealSy90--- Thats my favorite style, simple and clean.
tuzzio--- Thanks !!!
afishysilvia--- Shes awesome and im glad shes helping me with the build.


Ive since parked the car in the garage for the winter and made the decision to start the next major build project of the car. Since every time i bring up about wanting RHD, i always get the response, "just sell your car and buy a Silvia." OR "why drive RHD in the US?" i think at this point in my build i have done too much work to the car (NOT in a sentimental way) to just give up/let go of this thing, I've had for 11 years and buy another just to put the same amount of work to make it this way again (shaved,tubs,ect, ect). plus i would have to find the right buyer and with today's s-chassis market, its hard to find someone that knows how to put a value on a car with the amount of time and effort into a (what i think is a proper) build it seems. plus it has turned into a piece of art for me and i don't really drive it all that often anyway and i want to make it mine by doing things that make it unique.

So, onto what is happening now!!!

Put the car up in the air.



Wheels off


After thinking/staring at the car with the wheels off for a bit, this is when i decided that it is time to start the next major part of the build.

Rear subframe out with the help of the lovely, handy, helpful fiance'



I went under the car thinking there was a bunch of rust, but to my surprise just a couple spots are just surface rusted and the fuel lines are rotted...






My mom got me an engine stand for my birthday so i put it together and started digging through my back-ups in the garage (wich is why i am making this post about the build)


TIME FOR A TURBO BUILD!!!!!




The next thing to do is pull the interior, front end apart, and engine/trans out.

i am going to start with the rear end build first then get to the engine and prep for a RHD firewall swap when i pull the engine for the build.

Engine is going to be a mild 300~400hp build when done. (balanced crankshaft with and rods/pistons)
High mount intercooler setup to keep the bay clean and quick throttle response.
Since i have a TIG welder, ill build my own Manifold.
i see turbo stuff all the time but i am still new to the parts needed for the build.
Just browsing the net, ill probably get the TOMEI kit.

obscene

awesome work. looking forward to your progress!

__________________
https://www.youtube.com/bennyobscene

tuzzio

I run my front mount in the bumper (lets be honest, intercoolers look cool) and with the silvia front I was able to flip my core and run the pipes on the top and put the piping between the headlights and radiator. If you want pictures, let me know (or find my build thread) Food for thought.

tjcbar

sexy build

Super_OK_S13

Thanks! your build is coming along nice too! (have seen a couple videos!)

The more i think about it and now that you pointed it out, i think i will run an upsidedown intercooler. they do look pretty sweet behind the bumper! (i did some poking around your thread too for pics!)

Thanks!!!
--------------------------------------------------------

After spending some time disassembling the engine block, it all looks ok and ill be making a electrolysis tank and dunking the block for a day or so, to clean the surface rust and clean all the thread holes and also the cooling system (freeze plugs ect ect).













After taking the block apart I decided to take apart the Subframe. started with the arms and Diff, then moved onto the subframe bushings.



started with the fire method (Didn't work!!)


Waste of Time


Ended up cutting out the rubber inner section and cutting a slit in the sleeves, trying my best to not cut into the subframe...


Since we've had a couple days of lovely 40* plus weather here in PA. I started by cleaning up the holes where the bushings go with a wire wheel on a drill, and tried it (with a cup wheel) on the rest to clean it up but it didnt work that well. So I decided to get the Sand blaster out and go to town.



Before


After


Just using play sand for now. Might swing by Tractor Supply and grab a bag or 2 of fine blasting sand to run through as a finish before painting.

Also, I moved an old boiler from my basement to the garage to use as a wood stove. It Had to be taken apart to move it in 4 sections to the garage (**Thanks BurnsAuto**).... I re-assembled it and set it in its place.

might get to use it this winter!!
Back side


Front side

DJTTon

must be so nice to have so much garage space

__________________
Skurr Skurr

obscene

Thanks! I'll get there eventually

__________________
https://www.youtube.com/bennyobscene

Super_OK_S13

HAHA and i never have the time or when i do, i dont feel like using it. most of the time its too cold in the winter but i am getting this wood stove fixed up. so more garage time after that happens
---------------------

Update.

I did a little more sandblasting on the subframe and ran out of sand, got 2 more bags and it went back to 20* in the day time.... so its been sitting.

I sealed up the wood stove/boiler with furnace cement around the fire box sections where they meet when bolted together.

I sealed along the bottom on the inside where i'll lay some fire bricks on the bottom and a grate on top of them.


I also plumbed to the outside where the chimney will turn and go up. I didn't want to punch a hole in the roof, so the wall it was.



I somehow lost a door hinge between taking it apart months ago and moving a couple weekend ago. So i had to weld one up with some scrap/material in the garage.






I think i might need some sort of variable speed fan to create a draft. Since the design of the firebox was for an oil burner, i'm guessing it had a somewhat forced draft as it heated up and the flame made its way through the boiler and out to the chimney.

DJTTon

Maybe seal up the tube thats punched through the wall?

__________________
Skurr Skurr

Super_OK_S13

Im sure there is plenty of natural draft since its pretty open with a big ridge vent on the roof, and the garage isn't 100% sealed.. Im just thinking the design of the boiler might need a draft fan plus the natural draft created by the heat from the fire.

:::Update:::

I got a call from my Dad and he said, "I have a Chimney pipe for you". He brought it over and set it outside the garage door for me while i was at work. Its a piece of 7"x10ft long. the one end had tabs cut into it so i only lost an inch after trimming them off.

After work i stopped by the local plumbing supply house and Picked up an 8" 90* elbow and a 8"-7"reducer. The next day i stopped by my dads and got his crimper tool since the reducer needed crimped on the 7" end.

Reducer in place.




The guy at the plumbing supply house showed me a chimney cap but for 7" it was 15$ (it's an odd size i guess). i chose to make my own... :thumbup:

Started with the top.


Cutting the circle.


After cutting, I cut a line from the edge to the center, and drilled a few holes in the over lapping top side.


Once that was together i started on the side pieces to hold the top on and to the chimney pipe.




Needed 3 of them.


Drilled the holes in them for the rivets that hold it all together. 3 on the pipe, 2 on the cap.






My Dad suggested putting a metal screen on top of the chimney to prevent any ashes that might work their way up and out and land on something outside so i used hose clamps to hold it in place. Then after bending the top of the brackets for the cap, i riveted the brackets over the screen and left the hose clamp in place. I also put a couple rivets in the hose clamp after it was tightened to secure it in place.



Riveted the cap on.


Put some rivets to hold the pipe to the reducer, and the reducer to the 90* elbow.


All together ready for some paint.


After a quick wipe with acetone, i started to shoot it with black grill paint. it was a little cold so i stopped for the night.


Next thing is to fit it up outside along the wall and make brackets to hold it up and against.

idlebad

Damn, that chimney looks great!!!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Super_OK_S13

Made a little progress on the chimney for the wood stove today. ***sorry for the messy garage***

I painted the rest of the pipe and elbow. I also crimped the pipe ouside and sprayed another coat of paint around it.



The hose clamps will hold the brackets for the turnbuckle that attaches to the garage and holds the pipe steady. I will be making another bracket to support under the elbow.

These are the brackets for the turnbuckle. I drilled the holes and cut the square tubing after.


Then i made some angle brackets with 1 hole to lag to the wall/board behind and the other will hold the piece of the turnbuckle.



Cut them into pieces.


Made 3 and Assembled them.


finished and loosely strapped to the pipe. I will be using a couple rivets to hold the strap in place so nothing sags or can really move.





In the pictures you can kind of see I painted the wood stove with the same paint. I still have to seal the space where the pipe goes outside and get some 1/2" concrete board to put against the wall behind/around the wood stove. I'm not sure how hot it is/can get so we will see soon, i will probably buy/make a log/wood rack for the fire box. i might even look into a used waste oil setup..

Here's the brackets that attach for the bracing.


Brought the ladder out and the pipe.


After putting the pipe up, i zipped a bunch of self tapping screws to hold it in place. then when i need to run the chimney brush up through i can undo the elbow and twist it straight and run the brush through.




Made the pieces that connect the end to the turnbuckle and tightened it all up.






Even with just the 2 braces its pretty stable. I'm going to get my bigger ladder out and put 2 braces on the edge of the roof as well. I dont want it to blow over in a really bad wind storm.

Still need to seal up the pipe to the outside, make a plate to cover the hole where the burner use to sit, then i'll start a fire in the box. Hopefully theres enough draft so i dont smoke the garage out.



On a CAR related note!! I ordered GKtech solid subframe bushings.
They will be here Monday!

Green Arrow

The heat should create a pressure enough to push out of the chimney. I’ve messed with a few barrel-wood stove conversions. Awesome cap!

When you get it running, make sure to start it with a leaf blower....that’s loads of fun

stopbruh

are those dorkidori sideskirts and rear valances?

obscene

Good stuff!!! You'll have it warm and toasty just in time for spring lol

__________________
https://www.youtube.com/bennyobscene

Super_OK_S13

I really need some sort of draft fan. I might Tee into the pipe right out of the back of the stove and use a piece of 1.5 inch pre-bent 90* exhaust pipe facing the chimney pipe, and hook up a fan/blower of some sort. So when its on it'll have a venturi effect and blow air up the chimney thus creating a draft of sorts to pull the smoke through the stove and out of the chimney.

They ARE!! Very good quality might I add too! If you go back through my build you can see other pics before we wrapped them/fitment.

HAHA. I hope it gets warm soon, i've been getting cabin fever!!


So, onto the stove. I lit some papertowels and fire starter sticks and then laid a couple scrap white pine 2x2's on top with space in beween so it didn't smother it. There some was fire and it smoked like hell, So i got my hair dryer out and stuck it in the top chamber and it blew the smoke up the chimney. I think i'll build a platform and use the upper-half portion of the firebox and close/seal off the lower half of the firebox. and somehow seal the doors better. Theres just not enough heat to force itself up into the top section and out of the chimney.




----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I received the GKTech solid Subframe risers...




I heard installation is a little bit easier when you put them in the freezer and shrink them a tiny bit. So i did that and a couple days later when i was ready i pulled them out to install them.


When i was ready to paint the subframe. I wasnt sure on color. i wanted crazy colors then I wanted simple plain..... I cleaned up the subframe after sandblasting it a while ago.








I had to smooth a couple spots where it was damaged getting the old bushings out. So a file and a dremel did the trick...




Cleaned up the inside once more with the wire brush on a drill.


Used the air gun and blew out the rest of the sand and wiped off the surface, used a little acetone so it was semi clean.


I've had good results using this stuff from rustolem. I like the texture and it creates a hard shell (not rubbery) that's not too rough and thick towards what its sprayed on. My front wheel tubs were coated in 2014 and are still in great shape.


1st coat.


Pulled out the big fan, and opend a garage door.


Sitting in the sun, drying.


Next day, i decided to put the bushings in. Dropped a piece of cardboard on the floor, and the subframe, the n ran the wire brush through each one to clear out any overspray.


My great uncle made me use this stuff pretty much on every bolt I ever put back into place after wire brush/wire wheeling it. Only downside is it gets on everything (even if your careful! ) Oh, used as a lubricant too, it was a little tight!!


Frozen Subframe bushings served up!


Couple of good whacks with a rubber mallet and the first one is in.


Fancy close-up!




2 down! 2 to go!


The other 2 needed a little more tap from a mini sledge with wood on top to protect the anodizing finish. Otherwise they went in and was a tight fit..


ALL IN!


The underside is a little dirty and has surface rust but not as much as i thought would be there. All i'm going to get is some AN fittings and flare the end of the line by the frame make some small lines from there to the tank. replace the other rubber line to the check-valve/ re-route the vent line to the back with a breather filter on it. While everything is out, i'll undercoat the rear of the car.

Here's the rust




I've started by cleaning the posts for the subframe and priming them. ill put some ANTI-Seize on them before the subframe goes in to help with corrosion.


I also cleaned up the threads on the subframe posts/nuts with a wire wheel and the a thread chaser kit.




The arms and diff!!! Got something special for them and the fiance' suggested it in her favorite color!


Need to clean them up and prep them. Plan on new bolts and nuts for the install.


The diff will be getting the same treatment as the arms.


So far i've chased the threads on the rear cover and the nuts too.


On days when the weather breaks a little and is warmer i'll be in the garage.

brndck

THIS THREAD DELIVERS.

I even enjoyed that detour about the chimney pipe.

__________________

http://outslidersandsmokeproduce.blogspot.com/

Super_OK_S13

Thanks brndck, I got sidetracked when i was waiting for parts. and i wanted to try to heat the shop.

The dogs let me out of the house and I made my way to the garage.



So I started in the trunk to disconnect the fuel pump wires and trunk seal plate.




I lowered the tank to the floor and labeled one of the lines to the front in a few spots.




One by one i disconnected the lines, starting with the vent line.


Drained any little bit of fuel into a junk container.


Moved the tank out of the way.


Removed the old vent check valve and trimmed the lines back a little bit(mostly just bent them back and forth after crimping them with side cutters, since they were rusted to hell )




Took the scrap pieces and cleaned them to good (enough) metal, to test my flaring tool.




So i used it on both ends





BUT!!!!!! One is flared where i only had the tube/pipe flush with the top of the tube/pipe holder. And the other is about a 1/16th-3/32nds from flush.




*The one on the right is the flush one, the left was poking out.

*The left one sits more flush it feels with the flare seat/cut BUT seems slightly thinner/maybe stretched out more?

*The right side seems to have a thicker flare cone but doesnt seat against the flare fitting 100% (maybe 85-90%)

***I guess my question is, will the thicker one crush a tiny bit onto the other fitting i bought and help create the seal, or should i flare them the "better fitting/ slightly thinner one" method?

I cut the tubes to length.




I put the tube flare nuts on.


i am waiting on these to arrive to flare and finish the fuel lines.


and i bought 15FT of 5/16 of the gates barricade mpi fuel injection hose.


i'll probably get the hose seperator clamps and anchor them along the frame rail/floor/trunk pan.

NEXT is under coating everything back there. then i'll work on the arms/diff before i re-assemble the subframe

Super_OK_S13

Since all the pictures under the car pretty much look the same/similar angle. It doesnt look like much of an update but here goes!


Before undercoat.


After undercoat.


Got my fittings, hose, and hose separators.


The line separators are 6an size.


What the end of the hardline will look like.


Started by cutting the lines and slipped some fuel hose over for the clamps and the tube nut flares.




Then the flare clamp.


Both Flared.


Nipples


Wrenches. (I asked myself why i'm taking a picture of wrenches while laying under a car, out loud, I thought I heard a voice answer....)


Tighten them down.


Line Separators.


One line measured to tank, pushed on and clamped.


Both lines clamped and clamped to the tank.




After hooking the tank i put the other line separators on.


I ended up needing to re-flare the connection with a double flare as it leaked from the pressure. So after that was fixed, I fired the car up.



I have started on the subframe again and hope to have it back together soon! With Pictures!

Super_OK_S13

I really hope this turns into page 5....

Kind of a long update!

After getting the car running it made me pretty motivated to start on the subframe.

I began taking it apart and doing one side at a time instead of all apart at once. At least for the knuckle and LCA.

i only took pics of one side pretty much, so repeat steps for the other side.



Brake stuff off.


Next was the axle nut.. The dewalt sadly didn't have the strength, so i used the air gun and it only took a couple "ugga-duggas" if thats the sound correlation..


Got the 36MM out.


Clamped it in the vise.




Loosened up and spun off the rest by hand.


Since the last time i had the axles out was for the 5-lug swap, i greased up the splines so for any future maintenance was easy and not rusted/corroded like a lot of the 25+ year old cars have become. So i didn't have to use a puller/press this time to get it out.


Kunckle/LCA/hub


Brought it back to the work space and started on removing the knuckle.


Hub first. Take 4 bolts out.


I'm sure everyone has their way, i left the bolts threaded in a few turns and tapped on them with a hammer till the hub came free from the knuckle.


Next was the Ball joint nut.


I found this fork tool in my hammer drawer and it worked perfect for separating the knuckle from the LCA.


Snap ring.


For anyone that wants to replace the REAR Lower Control Arm ball joint--- This MOOG ball joint was 12.70$ on Amazon. Part Number is K9633 it has a zerk fitting (grease fitting) for the ball joint.


I had to tap the hole for the included "self-tapping" zerk fitting. 1/4"-28 is the size.


I had a HELL of a time pressing on the rubber boot also..


This worked well on getting the old ball joint out.


I added a small piece of 1.5"I.D. exhaust pipe to keep the clamp on the ball joint shaft from slipping off.


Came out pretty easy. i tried the impacts and ended up using a 24" long-1/2" breaker bar.




Next was cleaning the dirt and grease off the arms for paint.


Let them dry for a little in the sun.


cleaned the knuckle with a brush. It was greasy.


Decided on black for the lower control arm.


And Knuckle. But i sprayed glow in the dark paint over them and the subframe too!!


Pressed the ball joint in, starting with the impact and finished with the breaker bar.




snap ring and boot.




With the car tucked away from some over spray, i cleaned up and sprayed the arms with black paint as well.


I started on the differential by degreasing and using a wire brush. once that was done i left it to dry.


Put it on some blocks and took the bolts out holding the cover on.


made sure the fill/drain plugs were loosened.




Cracked open the cover.




Cover off for cleaning.




Scraping away the old gasket.


Drained the old fluids.


Gears look good. Didn't find any metal shavings on the drain plug magnet.


I used this to clean out the rest of the old fluid/clean mating surfaces and let dry afterwards.

Super_OK_S13

Continued....

Scraped the gasket off the cover and cleaned it with parts cleaner.




The cover ended up in the sandblaster to get the rest of the gunk off.




Sprayed the Differential.




And the cover.


It was time for the magic!!! I had my Fiance' help me and she applied the glitter as we went through the magic trick! (much kudos to her!!! )


Decided the rear cover needed it too!






Filled the diff up with 1.375 quarts of fluid as per FSM.


When i bought new bolts for the rear cover, I had to get a couple longer and cut them since they were out of stock of the other size i needed.




Cleaned up the mating surface with acetone and spread some rtv then the fiber gaskest and another thin layer on the cover.




New bolts look nice!


Before re-assembly i hit all the bolt heads on the subframe on the wire wheel. So, i started with the knuckle/hub/LCA and bolted it all together to the subframe.


Nuts/Washers for the diff.


I had to grind a flat spot on a washer, and use it to make up the space for the cotter pin to match up with the castle nut hole when tightened.


Got out the Super UP!


After putting the rest of the ams on, it was time for the diff and axles.




Diff going in.


Axles.


Like i've said before, this shit.... use it. it gets on everything if you touch it..


Axle bolts.


Diff nuts.


All nuts are tight and ready to go.






Putting the Subframe Assembly in.




I ended up greasing the posts a tiny bit.




It took a little bit of hitting with a small sledge hammer while pressure applied to the subframe, it eased its way onto the posts while i tightened the nuts as i went.

I took it around the block in in my town (open header and no hood) and got 2 texts, one from my mom since i went by her house (scaring/startling a kid with a basketball as it popped and backfired going from 1st to 2nd gear ) and one from my neighbor a couple doors down from my place. Guess the car was pretty loud!

My dog Katsumi however, Not amused by the noise....

tuzzio

goddamnit I fuckin love glitter

Super_OK_S13

pretty big update since the car went back together.

After getting the car on the road and waking up everyone napping from driving it around open header, pulled it back in the driveway, and into the garage to put the exhaust back on later.


So, the weather broke in the spring the there was green scenery growing, I took it out with a friend and took some pictures. Since he is the Camera guru and didnt have his stuff with him, he used my Nikon D3300.









Went to Carlisle Import and Performance this year. took my dad and it was wet friday, by myself and met burnsauto there on saturday, also wet. Sunday was BEAUTIFUL. Not many cars/clubs and it gets less and less each year!!





I gave the camera to Ericka while i cleaned the car... of course she took pics, of me....








Tables turned, GOTCHA!!! *shutter snap*



After carlisle performance and import in may, I really planned to take apart the car for one last time and re-do the engine bay/RHD plans/ect/ect... But as i was leaving Carlisle/end of the last day, I got an invite card to the Junkfood meet in Harrisburg on riverfront, and since they are really cool peoples, i couldn't refuse. So i postponed the tear-down, Junkfood is filled with lots of cool cars, and awesome food truck food!!















I had an opportunity and i took it.... fan girl me kicked in, and photobombed Boostedchick and her friend! SuperOK! *photo cred: Becker-Junkstyles*



Since the car was still on the road, we went to Cars and Coffee: Japanese Theme. This was in Bethlehem PA, an old steel/industrial town.













continued into the next post.......