wither48

Hello
I'm looking to replace the manual transmission in an s13 hatch with something more automated. As much as I'd love to keep the stick, my situation requires something without a driver operated clutch. I've been looking at dct settups (dual clutch transmission), but recently heard about something really cool. Apparently you can swap a manual shift valve body onto an automatic transmission to make it shift only when told by the driver, however since it still has a torque converter there is no clutch to worry about. Does anyone have experience with this or know if a dct swap would even be possible?
Many thanks to you all!

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TheRealSy90

There used to exist a paddle shift kit specifically for automatic 240's. Paired with a beefed up trans it could be a good option potentially. Unfortunately a lot of pictures in this thread don't work, but it's a start. Could try contacting some of the companies mentioned. http://www.nicoclub.com/archives/240...onversion.html

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Croustibat

Or you could just use a standard auto box. What is the point of not getting one ? The auto trans shifts ok-ish, just get one.

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check out my thread from ka-t.org http://www.ka-t.org/viewtopic.php?f=40&t=62525

my s13 testbed uses a stock 240 auto trans RE4R01A with a transgo shift kit and a sequential shifter and circuit i built to control shift solenoids. AEM ems handles line pressure,lockup, overrun solenoids.

There are links to videos to explain and some pics. I havent broken any hardparts in the trans @404rwhp that i'm at right now. I expect trans to let loose at about 600rwhp.


PCS or powertrain control solutions makes a trans ecu that will control most electronically shifted transmissions out there if you choose something other than nissan. AND they have paddle shifters options. The whole kit I priced out at like $2000.

Do it. Its fucking awesome to drive just check out my vids. Theres an in car [email protected] outside view, explanation of sequential shifter and more in car on the street at 10psi~~240rwhp.
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCQL...yx5tm70uj4htpQ


did some looking this morning and here's all the products i'd recommend.

trans controller
https://www.powertraincontrolsolutio...ller/TCM-2000/
RE4R01A harness (if you stick with bolt on capable trans)
https://www.powertraincontrolsolutio...ller/TCM-4124/
Paddle shifter kit
https://www.powertraincontrolsolutio...addle_Shifter/
Trans Fluid
http://www.bmracing.com/products/802...ty-of-12-only/
Valve body shift kit
http://www.transgo.com/products.php?...dcountview=Yes
Trans cooler
any will do

If you need more technical information, I can help or PCS can help get you a badass setup.

SoundEfx

That's some good info right there.

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Croustibat

so that is 2000$ in parts, and it does not include the gearbox nor machining if needed. Which may be worth more than a full car with a stock auto gearbox.

Quite the bargain.

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Gotta pay to play the way you want.

There isnt any machining needed, its the stock auto that bolts up everywhere.


Now if he wants to go outside of the RE4R01A, then yes all the costs of swapping a trans must be factored.

Croustibat

From what i read, the OP seems to have a problem operating the clutch.

I seriously can't see the point of shelling 2K$ and quite some work to add paddle shifts. It is a damn 240sx, not a lamborghini. The whole car is worth that money, at best.


@OP before you start buying parts here and there, just drive an S13 with an autobox. It does the job correctly.
If you are ready to shell out major money for a trans upgrade that does not use a clutch, you may as well get another car as you will *NEVER* see that money back.

For the kind of money required,you can get something newer, better and better looking than a 240.

wither48

Honestly, a 240 is the car I'm looking for regardless of what it's worth and reasonable amount to invest. For me it's more about getting a car I love than it is making money back (because, let's face it, its hard to get mod money back). I'm fine driving with a clutch, but driving in stop start isn't my idea of fun. I started the thread just to explore alternatives and see what else was out there beyond a traditional five speed and an electronic torque converter automatic. The car has a manual now, and looking at what it's going go require to change it out for something other than the factory 4 speed I'll probably leave it as is for now. Swapping in a 350z driver shift able automatic transmission is possible but expensive, so I'll probably save up for that and then throw on a shift kit. That'll allow me to control what gear I'm in while at the same time having something I can take through grid lock with no problems whatsoever.

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Croustibat

If all you need is lower clutch pedal effort, i found out the spec stage 3 and the XTD stage 3 clutches are butter smooth. Although i don't recommend the XTD otherwise, because it wears out VERY FAST (did less than 10k miles before it started slipping)

wither48

How much power are they typically good for?

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derass

Greaser, I just watched some of your vids. What is happening in 2nd and 3rd gear during this pass?

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nitrous is turning on and off
converter clutch is locking and unlocking

several things
1. a friend and i were trying to get kicked off the track and run 10's in my shitbox street car when it was difficult 15 years ago in my race car. (which was an S13 coupe)
2. That same friend talked me into shooting the 2nd stage up to a certain rpm
3. The tune up targets 22psi and had some features like anything over 24psi unlocks the converter. This was a random "i'll never hit more than 24 so as i'm pressing the up key i'll just stop here"
4. The tuneup had nitrous turning off i think above 5700 i cant remember.

5. Anytime you shoot nitrous boost is going to come up a little. Well it came up past that 24psi unlock feature and unlocked the converter.

6. Anytime you unlock the converter, you get the normal 10% SLIP a fluid coupling device affords you. So rpm flares up a good 500 or so rpm.

7. When that happens it goes above the nitrous turn off rpm and turns off the nitrous

8. nitrous turns off boost comes down, converter locks back up

9. rpm is back below 5700 or so so nitrous turns back on and the process repeats itself 2-3 times per gear.

NOT the way i intended it to be and thats why its called tuning.

This is also the reason it delaminated the lock up clutch in the converter.

When i get the trans back together i'll smooth out that transition and the car will do 10.50's and take out that gtr next time