rwtf

Alright, i got a s14 sr20det in a 89 hatch
I'm running no clutch fan, and only a efan but it never comes on.
Also got nismo t stat and isis 3'' rad.

I just got done testing the Tstat and its working like it should, I thought it might have been stuck open or not intstalled right, but no its fine.

The only way to get it to temp is to let it idle forever, but as soon i drive the temp drops down, I have a aftermarket gauge,wired to the lower rad hose , so im not just going off the stock one.

so wtf is going on, its making me have shitty gas mileage.

thanks.

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Mikester

Put an OEM thermo back in it... Otherwise, deal with the low temps. Things like Nismo T-stats & larger radiators are made for running the car hard... Daily driving on them in the winter is going to yield low temps. You should be happy- If you were running a clutch fan, OEM shroud and cooling panel, your temps would likely be even lower.

You can also raise your coolant to water ratio... Less water + more antifreeze = less cooling. However, you would prolly be sorry come the GA summer

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rwtf

yeah, I figured it was the Tstat. its been pretty cool down here to, maybe i'll keep the nismo for summer and a oem for winter.

But shouldnt it atleast warm up eventually? bc mine doesnt, my temp gauge doesnt even move from the 130*F starting point.

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fliprayzin240sx

Where do you have the sensor at? Might have air behind the sensor so its sensing air and not coolant.

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desertKAdrifter

Yeah like mentioned before, your setup is for racing or drifting. I dont know about sr20det, but on ka24de if the temp is below 170*f the ecu will run the engine on "open loop" mode, in other words it will run richer than normal.

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Croustibat

Mask half of the radiator with some ABS panel. That is what people do on race car that dont warm enough in winter.

cotbu

Cardboard works as well.

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Croustibat

Yes, but cardboard does not react well when being soaked with rain

Mikester

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but you can't breakdance on ABS between runs.

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rwtf

the sensor is located on the bottom rad hose right by the rad, where stock A/c temp switch goes in a sohc car.

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fliprayzin240sx

Move it to the upper radiator hose...you need to see what's coming out of the engine, not coming in. You're measuring the colder coolant going into the engine after its been cooled by the rad.

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KiLLeR2001

Not quite. You'll want to measure what is going into the engine. If the normal operating temperature is 180*F for example, you will want to maintain that 180*F entering into the engine. That lets you know that the thermostat is working and the radiator/fan setup is cooling properly.

edit: OP what radiator + efan setup are you using?

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S14DB

But he want's to know why he's getting shitty MPG not how efficient his radiator is. Cluster sensor is right next to the ECU sensor.


S13 cluster with a S14 motor. Are you using a S13 sender(1 wire) for the cluster?
The 2 wire should match the ECU and the 1 wire should match the cluster(s13/s14).

I noticed a major improvement on warmup going from a 160 to the stock 180. A lot of the low temp thermos have a much different opening curve than an oem style.

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KiLLeR2001

Yes I know, I was addressing Ray's post about putting the temperature sensor at the top radiator hose (hot side).

He's running rich because hes not reaching normal op, hence lower MPG.

But yeah, if using an S13 cluster make sure the one wire sensor is for an S13 not an S14. I believe the ECU sensor is the same but a different plug is used.

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rwtf

So I put in a brand new 170*f tstat and it still doesn't get to temp. It gets there quicker when sitting, but as soon as I start driving it just drops.

as for moving the sensor, on my guage it has a op temp marking and it corresponds to the gauge on the cluster so i dont think thats the problem.

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rwtf

my temp guage on the cluster works fine, using an after market gauge to verify.

if you read my posts, i got a 3'' isis rad, and a e fan thats not even hooked up.

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KiLLeR2001

It's been colder recently. Try a 50/50 mix of distilled water and coolant. When summer rolls around switch to majority distilled water mix.

edit: Did you buy an OEM thermostat or the AutoZone special? I would highly recommend OEM Nissan.

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desertKAdrifter

hook up the aftermarket sensor on the upper radiator hose, that tells you what temp your engine is running. If you hook it up after the radiator(lower hose) you will of course get a colder reading.

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KiLLeR2001

Ideally you'd want it after the thermostat and before it enters the engine, aka where the OEM location is for the ECU sensor and temperature switch.

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desertKAdrifter

The oem sensors are located on the upper hose fitting where it exits the engine. The thermostat is located where it goes into the engine, right next to the water pump.

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desertKAdrifter

i'm an idiot, i just reread the op and you are talking about an sr20det. I've never dealt with these engines as my name tag states so dont believe everything i posted, i could be wrong. Should of bought a KA, lol

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desertKAdrifter

On an sr20det the oem sensors are located by the throttle body so i would have the aftermarket one on that same hose.....

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KiLLeR2001

I would tap anywhere within the heater hoses on the intake side. I'd steer away from placing temperature sensors near the exhaust manifold, as the heat will influence the readings.

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S14DB

Blitz puts it on the upper.

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Taylor008

I have a nismo thermo and it doesn't get above 160* in the winter. Thats coming OUT of the top hose. I bet my coolant going into the motor would be 130 or less. Not worried about it.

S14DB

Not worried about shitty mpg and engine wear?

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rwtf

I talked to a friend of mine with a s13 black top and he says hes car will be at op tmep within 5 mins of driving.
I can drive mine all damn day and it wont go up,

Also I have a pbm hmic, also a pig nose with the vents cut so they actually do something.

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S14DB

The 170 you got was a single or dual stage?

I would get a OEM themo(180*) and swap. 3 bolts, 5~15mins.

I get up to temp in 5~10mins then stay there like a needle. Only time my efans turn on is in traffic(stop n go).

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rwtf

shit idk, it was a stant? slant? whatever advance had.

but still would warm up.... also not running a heater core, just looped in the back.

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rwtf

Bump still facing this problem, let the car idle for almost 20 mins in GA heat for it to warm up, took it for a drive and made a video to show you guys whats happening.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6a0fv847eY0

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