Racingmax53

I recently swapped bellhousings for my S13 and after struggling to get the clutch release fork installed I installed the transmission on the engine. I cannot get the clutch slave cylinder in between the fork and the bolts. I cannot move the clutch fork by hand back and forth. I have the throwout bearing installed the correct way and the retaining clip as well. Any ideas on what the issue might be? Do I have to pull the trans back out? Thank you

r20crazy

the clutch slave cylinder is probably maxed out and the piston is past the bore (if that's why it doesn't fit). open bleeder on clutch slave and with a piece of wood against the trans push the slave pin back in and reinstall quickly. (if ur strong u may not have to open bleeder just push like hell and open the cap on clutch master cylinder). it will push itself back out so act fast. hope that's ur issue. it takes a lot to move the fork by hand and that varies a lot with different pressure plates, which is why its hydraulic not cable operated. if u open the bleeder valve be prepared to remove the clutch dampner system and or do alota bleeding as you'll introduce air into the system

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Racingmax53

I tried a new slave that I had laying around, and I still need another inch or so I need.

r20crazy

maybe I'm mistaken hold on.... assume this is a sr motor swap from a ka to a ka trans?

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Racingmax53

Yea I put the KA throwout on. Do you know if the VG30E throw out is different? I may have put the VG one on. I accidentally put the throw inner bellhousing plate on but I fixed it.

r20crazy

same. post some pics of whats going on. shooting in the dark is making me look dumb from states away with no pics to go on

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Racingmax53

r20crazy

looks ok. whats the slave look like with the pin installed?

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Racingmax53

There is not enough from to get the slave installed properly. I need the fork to be moved back another inch or so but it doesnt move

r20crazy

pic of slave cylinder with pin installed? even if just hanging. use a pry bar or long screw driver to move fork using the partly installed slave blots as a pivot point. if nothing trans has to come back out. the slave with pin installed fully compressed should only stick out about a 3/4" or less... so looking at the pic it should fit fully compressed

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Racingmax53

I owe an apology. I didnt even think to try compressing the new one... Thank you so much!

r20crazy

ok. at least I don't feel like an a$$ as I do sometimes. still know what I'm talking about. but again... if u have the clutch dampner system still installed you'll have to bleed or remove it. and be SURE TO FULLY COMPRESS THE SLAVE by hand (usually accomplished by pulling the fork forward with person in car like bleeding brakes) takes a long time. THEN if there is a problem with engagement point or not fully releasing u have to adjust the clutch pedal under the dash with the master cylinder rod connected to the clutch pedal.

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Racingmax53

Awesome will do thank you. I will be sure to do that. I remember having trouble bleeding it a while back so that should help me quite a bit!

r20crazy

if u still do have the dampner system its just a matter of removing it and bending the metal line to connect directly to the rubber one in the pic u posted slowly without kinking it. then bleeding is super easy. alternative is getting the aftermarket braided line from the master to the slave and bleed. glad I could help. sorry for miss information along the way but was removed to help future searchers with same issues.

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