kuramaya

Well here is my next addition. I have a shitload of parts I have to install, today I tackled the Z32 MAF. Easy right? In and out? Well not exactly so I made sure to document the Issues I had and the fixes. There are more than one way to install. This is myway and it worked:

Items Needed:
Z32 MAFS
Intake that fits the Z32 MAFS
80MM Grommet
2 80mm Hose Clamps
80MM to 60MM Aluminum Pipe
Wire Harness
Steel bar for support
Electrical Tape
Wire Connectors
Tools
This write up may help. If it does, give me some points please

**Disconnect your negative Battery Terminal**
Okay well getting started, I ran into an immediate problem. The Z32 MAFS intake side did no fit the APEXi Intake I had been usuing with my stock MAFS.
Fix was, I bought a new APEXi Intake. I swear by the APEXi, my old one with adapter piping is for sale as well.


Okay to attach the MAFS to the Intake depends on the intake itself..make sure you keep hold of the little rubber gasket ring that goes bewteen the MAFS and the Intake, it sits in a little valley type area on the MAFS. Then use a paper style gasket between the intake and the MAFS and use the 4 screws to secure it nice and tight.

Okay now pull out your old MAFS and Intake and you will see the next problem.


The Stock MAFS has an 60mm exit to the stock compressor pipe...your new Z32 MAFS has an 80mm one. I eventually plan on getting a full aluminum pipe made that will go all the way up from the compressor to the intake, but for now I had to improvise cause I hate to stop in the middle of sh1t unless it is for beer or good head from a hottie...so what I did was headed down to the speed shop and bought an 80mm to 60mm reducing pipe and a gromet...


See you can't just use a reducing grommet, becuase the stock compressor piping is rubber if you used a rubber style gromet it would collapse..you need something strong in there that wont collapse. Use two hose clamps and attach the MAFS with installed intake to the Reducing pipe using the grommet. Once your done it should look like this, mine looks like an F15 motor now:


Then put the pipe in. You can slide it down the stock rubber compressor tube and use the stock hode clamp to secure it on the 60mm end of the reducter. Push it in as far as you can, there isnt much room. It will look like this now, and yes I had just enough room...



it is time to cut the harness you are looking at in the picture above....make sure you cut it about 2 cm's from the tip. This way it can still be used again.
Then get your wire diagram and wire the stuff up:

Here is the breakdown using the Harness I bought for 20 Bucks..
From Right to Left:
White - to White on the stock Harness
Black - to Ground on the car
Black - to the Black on the Stock harness
Red - to the Black and White stripes wire on the Stock Harness

Attach all of the wires from the new Z32 Harness to your stock wire cluster...use the direction above. You can either solder the wires (preffered) or do what I did. I just used wire connectors and crimped them together, then wrapped the harness in black tape. I didnt wanna do it permanantly with solder yet since I am going to have an intake pipe made for me later and may have to reduce the harness length.
Then you will still have the ground wire to deal with...I extended the ground wire and set it right below my profec motor..but there are plenty of places to ground it at..


Okay now here is what the finish product will look Like installed...The only thing left to do is reconnect your battery cable and start up. If you have an SAFC II like me, you will have to make an adjustment in the ETC menu prior to startup. Go into ETC, choose Sensor Type, choose HW and In "2" and Out "6":

Next write up is 550's and AEM UEGO wideband install
Late
Daryl

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