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Old 09-29-2005, 04:21 PM   #1
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Na Ka Faq

For all you NA freaks and your ITBs and high compression and lopey cams.

QUIT BUGGING ME DAN!
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Old 09-29-2005, 08:45 PM   #2
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KA24-E
Type:2398cc EFI SOHC 12 valve 4cyl
Power:140hp @ 5600rpm
Torque:152ft-lbs @ 4400rpm
Gearboxes:RWD 5-Speed and 4-Speed Auto
Source:1989-1990 240SX

KA24-DE
Type:2398cc EFI DOHC 16 valve 4cyl
Power:155hp @ 5600rpm
Torque:160ft-lbs @ 4400rpm
Gearboxes:RWD 5-Speed manual(1991-1998 240SX) FWD 5-Speed manual(1991-1998 altima) 4-Speed Auto
Source:1991 onward 240SX, 1991-1998 Altima
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Old 09-30-2005, 01:46 PM   #3
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my throttle bodies came in today, here's a pic comparing gsxr 1000 throttles to the intake side of the manifold.
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Old 10-09-2005, 11:53 AM   #4
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Just recently got this project running, so I might as well do a writeup.

Here goes.

Intake mani and TB's

First, get some 01' or higher Suzuki GSXR 1000 or 750 Throttle Bodies.

Then get an extra intake mani.

Cut the runners off approximately 6" from the head flange.

Go to Home Depot and get some rubber plumbing couplers. They're about $5 a piece with clamps.

Clamp the Mani and TB's together to yield this...









And with the couplers trimmed down, and the velocity stacks on...





Now make 2 brackets that brace the TB's to the mani, for extra strength.

I used 3/4" by 3/16" steel. You can find this at Home Depot. Bolted one end to the TB's and the other slips under the mounting point for the PCV rail. Make one per side. Should look something like this...



Now make a bracket for the throttle cable to slip into. I used 1 1/2" angle iron. This can also be found at Home Depot. Make it to bolt onto the mounting surface that the EGR used to sit on.





Get a SOHC throttle cable. The DOHC one is wayyyy too long. The SOHC cable is too long too, but better than the DOHC one. The end of the Nissan throttle cable that slips onto the throttle wheel fits in the Suzuki throttle wheel perfectly.

get two air boxes from a 01' and up GSXR 750. These have the shortest velocity stacks. Each airbox has two short stacks, and two long ones. Once you have 2 boxes, you will have two full sets of velocity stacks to help you achieve the best powerband down the road.



That's it for the manifold part of things.

Now the fuel management.

I chose to use a MegaSquirt (MS) because of price, and because, well, I love DIY stuff as you can probably see. haha

Get your board and bags of components all lined up like so...



Build the stimulator first. This will help you learn how to make proper solder joints befor you start soldering the actual MS together. The stimulator hooks up to Megasquirt and stimulates the MS such that it thinks it is running an engine. What this does is allow you to make sure all of your MS is built and running correctly before trying to start the car with it. It also allows you to download new codes to the CPU chip as you see fit, without having to have the MS in the car. Very trick.



Follow the MegaManual at www.megasquirt.info and you will end up with this...



Now build the pigtail for the wiring harness...



and here's a better pic of how many wires there are. This is the entire engine harness. Stock one gets removed completely.



that's basically it for the MS.

Now for the ignition setup.

I chose to run a distributorless system off of early 90's Ford Escorts. This system uses a trigger wheel that is mounted to the crank pulley to fire the ignition instead of a gear driven distributor. This has many advantages, the first of which being that it is more accurate than the stock distributor. It also gives full control of the ignition timing.

from left to righ in the pic below, we have the EDIS module, the VR sensor (reads the trigger wheel on the crank pulley) and the Coil.



Here is a picture of the spark plug wires modified to fit down the spark plug holes in the valve cover. the boot that connects to the plugs has about a 30 degree bend in them so I bent them back straight, and trimmed the boots until they slid down into the holes in the valve cover.



Next, you have to get a trigger wheel made. I have a friend who is a CNC machinist, so he made one for me, as well as prepping the crank pulley for the wheel.



And the wheel fit onto the pulley looks like so...





Now make a bracket to mount the VR sensor onto. I put mine where the A/C compressor used to be. just some more of the angle Iron used before, long enough to mount the sensor on, facing the crank pulley.

Next, make a block off plate for the hole that the distributor used to occupy. I made mine big enough to mount the new coil to, as that is as far as the plug wires would reach. Just simple 1/8" thick steel. when finished it looks like this bolted to the engine, with the new coil mounted on it.





On a side note, here is the stock KA24DE timing map I scaled down. I have used it and it works great.



Putting it all together.

Now pull off your stock intake mani, and take out your engine harness. You will no longer need either of these. bolt the new mani onto the engine, it should look something like this...











You can also see in those pics the wiring harness was finished. It's simply following the diagram, running each wire to each sensor.

the only things that were not on the diagrams were the tach signal, water temp gauge and the switched ignition power supply. the Tach signal was cake, run a wire from the Clean Tach Out pin on the EDIS module to the Tach input on the back of the gauge cluster. That's it. Speedo will still work. Run a wire from the second temp sensor in the intake mani to the coolant temp input on the back of the gauge cluster. that's all for that. And the B/R wire coming from the igntion switch on the steering column needs to be tapped into to get switched power to MS, and the ignition components.



However, the wiring diagram for the ignition is slightly off. the polarity of the VR sensor wires is opposite than in the diagrams, so wire that up accordingly.

I used the stock injectors for now, but I have some SR injectors lying around waiting to go in. Stock injectors will be enough for now.

for the brake booster, I used the stock PCV rail, and ran one line from its output to the brake booster. Has worked great. I also Tee'd a 1/4" vacuum line out of this line, on it's way to the booster, for the fuel pressure regulator. Before doing any of this, I measured the vacuum in this line, and in the rest of the intake mani under all braking conditions, and the booster did not affect the vacuum in the engine. This being so, it is safe, and fine to run the vacuum for the FPR from the brake booster vacuum line.

the TB's come from the factory with a vacuum line from each port Tee'd into one. this is used for the map sensor. Simply run a line from this to MS. the MAP sensor is inside the MS box.

Then swap out the throttle cables, and hook the SOHC one up.

Finally, plug the EGR hole in your header.

If I recall correctly, this is about it for what I did on this whole project to get it running. for the specifics of the MS building and whatnot, and the ignition specifics and diagrams, visit www.msefi.com and www.megasquirt.info.

I specifically did not go into extensive detail in these areas because it is covered very well at those two sites.

So finally start it up and get it idling correctly. Do this by adjusting the screw that adjusts how far open the throttle plates are at "closed" so it has an idle speed you like, and adjusting the fuel amount in the MS. You can then get your own wideband to tune it, or take it to someone. Wichever's clever.

After tuning it, GO DRIVE IT! Don't forget to give yourself a pat on the back too!

Please forgive me if I have forgotten anything, it is a very long project, there is so much to do. I may have left a few small details out, but this is the major stuff.

Driving impressions
I don't have it tuned very well yet, but I can tell you that throttle response is immediate. The engine also revs up MUCH quicker. It does not feel like the lunky old KA. It's a whole new engine. This definately made it come alive. It is, of course MUCh louder also. It no longer sounds like a KA. Sounds way more pissed, like an engine with 2x the displacement.No dyno slips yet, but once I get one, I will be certain to post it up, as well as a video/soundclip.

Cheers
Scott Slater
There's some reading material to keep you guys busy. hahaha And I might have another smaller write-up soon here if/when I build another manifold setup.
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Old 10-11-2005, 10:12 AM   #5
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I did get it dyno'd. Peak #'s aren't that high, but look at the torque curve, and lack of significant top end hp falloff. With cams It's going to be a whole new beast (for maeda to make fun of). hahaha



Rough cost was ~930 for the ITB's, MS, and all the other junk that goes along with it.

I'm selling my current ITB setup, as I'm making a new one. So if you are interested (seriously), PM me. I'll put them up in the FS section in a couple weeks.
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Old 10-11-2005, 04:34 PM   #6
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I'll do this but once.

DO NOT POST QUESTION IN THIS THREAD
DO NOT BS IN THIS THREAD

Seriously. I deleted 7/12 posts here because they were worthless. Cut the shit out, or I'm going to lock and unstick this.
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Old 10-20-2005, 01:03 AM   #7
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Companies that make cams for KADE's:

JWT
Gude
PDM Racing
Crower (used to, can do custom grinds too)
And some more I'm sure. But none reputable I can think of...

A note on valvesprings and retainers. It's been confirmed that CA and KADE valvesprings and retainers are the same. You can use CA springs and retainers in your DE. I was talking to a very reputable source that said that CA and VG springs and retainers are the same. So if this is true, for valvesprings and retainers CA = KA = VG. This means lots of choices.

I'm getting some cams (JWT) in the next week or two for my engine. I should have before and after tests on the same dyno with the cams. I'll also play with velocity stack length before and after, to help get a better idea of ideal runner length for the two different sets of cams.

Oh and SOHC pistons in a DE. I havn't tried it out yet, but It is more likely than not that aftermarket cams in a DE with stock sohc pistons will not work together. Will put the valves into the tops of the pistons. The valve reliefs in the sohc pistons do not line up with the valves in the DE. I've run this across a few reputable nissan engine builders, and they also highly doubt that cams with much higher lift than stock will work with stock sohc pistons.

And because people alway ask...

The highest hp N/A KA24DE to date puts down 365 flywheel hp. I forget the torque. 290rwhp. I want to say 25x rwtq, but don't quote me on that. This engine is used in the Nismo baja truck things. They see 11,500rpms in the air. You can buy them with a few hours on them now and then for a pretty penny. Call BS if you want, I've talked to the builder myself.
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Old 10-27-2005, 04:40 PM   #8
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Can you plz post a close up of how the VR sensor is mounted in reference to the crank pulley?
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Old 11-08-2005, 10:40 PM   #9
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http://www.drysump.com/pan16.htm

Found at least one dry sump oil pan for KA
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Old 11-09-2005, 11:57 AM   #10
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Old 11-15-2005, 08:38 PM   #11
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for those serious ppl, a friend of mine has a gt3 motor up for sale... if anyone is serious please pm me. CR 13:1.. i believe its setup for a v band style belt.. so either your going to have to fab up ur own pulley or youd have to by one... the motor is setup for dry sump already... this is all thru WOM from a friend...
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Old 12-09-2005, 06:54 PM   #12
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I also wanted to add that since the KA doesn't have a fully counter weighed or knife edged crank that there are affordable alternatives.
Did some research on crank scrapers found that this company makes them for the KA... http://crank-scrapers.com/prod01.html
Some people can look at them and think that they are worthless, but it is to break windage in the crank case, and increase HP. I am not going to say that it is any type of significant HP, but for $50 and a 3HP gain at peak I wouldn't mind having one. Especially since people have claimed that it increases rev as well.
If ecu tuning and ITB's isn't your thing,(although I do plan to do it in the future) you can just have the TB bored, and ported from www.maxbore.com.
RBS14 mentioned a diverse amount of cams available, I believe the im Wolfe is the best streetable cam on the market(although it cost the most)
Great write up RBS13.
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Old 03-20-2006, 03:59 PM   #13
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What's the bore on those throttle bodies? Is it the same top and bottom?

-=thanx=-
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Old 03-20-2006, 05:51 PM   #14
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50mm induction diameter and 42mm throttle plate diameter.
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Old 04-22-2006, 05:37 PM   #15
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starting up a rebuilt ka24de motor

what do i do when i wanna start up an engine that has been rebuilt. something about the oil pump by manual i just need to know the steps? anyone with tips???
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Old 04-25-2006, 02:06 AM   #16
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put a few drops or a cap full of oil into the spark plug holes before starting up to lube the cylinder walls and piston rings.
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Old 05-03-2006, 02:58 PM   #17
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I am planning on building the KA and staying n/a. I am shooting to go past 200hp, however I was curious on something. How much can the stock ka24de cams hold? Should they be upgraded right away or should I save it towards the end? If so, what cams are reccomended?
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Old 05-03-2006, 08:22 PM   #18
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they suck. Get rid of them. What cams you get depends on the powerband you want. Easiest is JWT.
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Old 05-08-2006, 05:33 PM   #19
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so you only got a coupe of horses from the itbs? i thought they added alot more.
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Old 05-08-2006, 06:34 PM   #20
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there's 95% of the power curve (everything but WOT) that there is no quantitative way of representing. Not to mention response. Instant power! that's where the ITB's really shine. It's just one of those things you have to do to appreciate. Just a dyno chart won't convince you. With cams I got about 170 to the wheels with real tuning (timing). But now it's boosted so it's a whole new game.
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Old 05-08-2006, 06:52 PM   #21
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[/QUOTE]
The highest hp N/A KA24DE to date puts down 365 flywheel hp. I forget the torque. 290rwhp. I want to say 25x rwtq, but don't quote me on that. This engine is used in the Nismo baja truck things. They see 11,500rpms in the air. You can buy them with a few hours on them now and then for a pretty penny. Call BS if you want, I've talked to the builder myself.[/QUOTE]



i want to see the dyno
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Old 05-08-2006, 07:24 PM   #22
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isnt that suppose to be the ka24E race motor running high compression and itbs and runs on alcohol? not a feasible street engine?
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Old 05-08-2006, 08:28 PM   #23
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id like to see the dyno on those baja trucks too.

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Old 05-08-2006, 08:28 PM   #24
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Those baja's if they were Fuel injcted god that would be hot

i hate carbs =\
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Old 05-09-2006, 03:15 AM   #25
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thats awesome. i want ITBS now where can i get um?
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Old 05-10-2006, 06:44 PM   #26
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Toda sells 43mm for 250 for all 4 i believe
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Old 05-16-2006, 02:08 AM   #27
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post more info about NA's! lol im digging this sh!t due to high gas prices! ahha
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Old 05-16-2006, 08:22 AM   #28
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just wait till i get my build done. under 2000 for 200+whp n/a
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Old 05-22-2006, 10:40 PM   #29
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im pretty sure those baja truck if they are the same as what they run at crandon brush run (20miles from me) they are fuel injected. when you hear and see them do what they do in real life its amazeing, they beat up on the v8 classed trucks alot of the time in the shoot out. the v8's are in the 800hp+ range, bu they are are bigger and heavier. the one we got to see looked fuel injected but it looks nothing like a 240 ka.
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Old 06-11-2006, 10:02 PM   #30
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ok i got a question ... how high of a compression can i go on pump gas on a ka24de ... i was think of a shorter rerouted intake, port n polish, headers cams, 2.5 pipes, jwt ecu, and higher compression if possible for n/a build ???
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