TheRealSy90

Or loosen the engine mount bolts so that it will tilt back some.

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LikWid

I like this. Going to be installing an S15SR into my Kouki, anything specific I should be aware of? Did you have to upgrade the fuel system any?

brianglawson

I have pulled the transmission. I have the Throwout bearing out... I can grab the inner race and the outer race and get a VERY slight amount of play between the two.. but it spins smooth and quiet as could be... I took it to a local mechanic and they said it was fine.... When pressure is on it, it spins smooth...

There is a video below of the actual noise, and below that is a video examining the removed throwout bearing.

HERE IS A VIDEO OF THE ACTUAL NOISE
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jwOd...ature=youtu.be

Here is a video of the Throwout bearing...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uQlByZS-Sb4

So what now???? Throwout Bearing?? Pilot Bearing?? Transmission shaft bearing???

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S15 SR20DET Powered, Kouki S14 http://zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t=578575

brianglawson

Honestly, I don't think my bearing should have that little bit of play between the races, but what my local mechanic said makes sense... that it has pressure on it.. and it spins smooth and tight.

I did notice that when I first took the transmission out, (this is a first for me in many years) and was playing with the shifter fork and how it worked. When I would move the fork/Throwout bearing in and out, sometimes it felt like it wanted to hang up. Now, I'm thinking I was probably pulling it out further than it typically would. It has[d] plenty of lubricant on it. When I was driving the car, It shifted great, never had any funky shifts or never felt like anything was hanging up.... as you can hear in the video... when I had pressure on the clutch and the car was being given some gas, I would get that whining/grinding/whirling/dragging noise....

I'm about to make another video..

So I have the transmission sitting on the floor; I reinstalled my shifter and made sure it was still in neutral. Now, I spin the input shaft and I do hear some noise rattling around. My mechanic suggested that it might be the input shaft bearing inside the transmission. While I spin the input shaft, I hear some fairly loud, inconsistent noise coming from the gear box. I hear it all the same when I put it in a gear. Now I'm kind of wondering if it is, indeed, the bearing in the transmission. The def. sounds like it could be a bad bearing.

Im going to go make a video and i'll post it up.

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brianglawson

OK, SOOOooo

Here is ANOTHER video... Just trying to make sure that this noise is typical, or if it's not...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dVsmjmtW9w8

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S15 SR20DET Powered, Kouki S14 http://zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t=578575

Arrowking

If you have the clutch in (ie pressed down) and it makes the whirring noise, wouldn't that be indicative of a bad pilot bearing? Just spitballin' here.

0-PSIFORLIFE

That kouki is sex man! Love the red! Thanks for sharing your awesome build! It's inspiring me to do a lot more to my 14.

RB240Coupe

this is an awesome build, u hit the nail on the head about being planted on these mountain roads. my s13 will recieve similar attention in the suspension area

brianglawson

Walbro 255 and you'd be set!!!

Typically, that's indicative of a Throwout Bearing. If a Pilot bearing is bad, usually it will make noise at idle without the clutch depressed; like in neutral, idling. .. This is usually though... other circumstances can easily make it different. Like I'm dealing with...

Thanks man!!!! got a build thread??

I HIGHLY recommend FEAL Suspension. Odi is the man!! This is my third FEAL setup.. I had him rebuild and revalve the stock setup on my Sti, and I also had off the shelf FEAL coilovers on my Sti later on.... These are custom spec'd and would be closer to his Gravel kits... But for not much more money, he will build you something custom. Im sure you could get the same setup I have now... I love it... They are Long travel Housings, with the longest Swift Springs available, 6k front, and 4k rear. I have over 5" of travel with this setup. Just be aware that this is as low as I can go in the front due to the longer housings; I don't mind though... I love my stance right now and I like running real rubber so I need height to fit it.

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S15 SR20DET Powered, Kouki S14 http://zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t=578575

brianglawson

Sooooo Update:

I got the transmission out.... and the Throwout bearing is fine... the input shat bearing is fine... Pilot bearing seems fine feeling in..... Im trying to get the transmission reinstalled and am having more trouble than I am when I removed it!! to remove it, I ended up lowering the subframe and rotating the transmission 180* and got it out.... hurt my back pretty bad in the process.... as I did it by myself.. LOL Im starting to really think that it was my slave cylinder or master cylinder getting weak.... it happened gradually, but fast.... not typical of a bearing... bearings usually have a long fail process... whereas a hydraulic piece will show signs of inoperability and then very quickly deteriorate to non functional....

Anyway... im trying to get it back in; I feel like I have tried about every rotation possible. I can't get this sucker back in.....

Im starting to think I will have to jack the motor up and remove the motor mounts and set it down metal on metal........

Anyone have any input??

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S15 SR20DET Powered, Kouki S14 http://zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t=578575

e1_griego

Loosen motor mounts, jack up the motor to tilt it back and/or wedge a 4x4 block between the downpipe and the car to tilt the motor back.

That should free up the space you need.

I just had my trans out last week and actually ended up just using two jacks to get the trans back in with minimal lifting.

brianglawson

Word, Thanks man!

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S15 SR20DET Powered, Kouki S14 http://zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t=578575

brianglawson

Well, I have gotten my S14 back together and been driving it for close to a month.

Recent Mods and Maintenance:
Reinstalled Transmission
New OEM Dankin Clutch Master Cylinder
New OEM Dankin Clutch Slave Cylinder
New Redline MT-90, GL-4 Gear Oil
Removed Front Mount Intercooler
Removed TurboXS Type H-RFL Blow Off Valve.
Installed OEM S15 Spec-R Side Mount Intercooler
Installed OEM S15 Spec-R Bypass Valve.

I am still getting the same whirrling/grinding/bearing noise as i was before. I had posted the video examining my Throwout bearing, and everyone thought it was normal to have that amount of play in it and that it was fine. I do not believe this. I just purchased a new OEM Dankin Clutch (Exedy) Clutch Replacement Kit for my 2002 RSX Type-S. The throwout bearing in it does not have that small amount of play. I'm thinking I will have to remove the transmission again and install a new TOB.

I think the case here is that the Throwout Bearing sleeve is getting to the part of the input shaft that has the little ring cut out for grease to rest and is getting ever so slightly off kilter and making it make the noise; the noise only happens in a specific part of the throw and only when cold and when using both the clutch and gas pedals. I believe i will find a new Throwout bearing sleeve (the piece the bearing mounts to, and that also connects to the fork) and a new OEM Nissan Throwout bearing. The only other thing i think it could be would be that the pressure plate is putting uneven pressure on the TOB.

Anyway.. The problem is much less frequent now that i have installed the New Clutch Master and Slave Cylinder.


Also, i installed the OEM S15 sidemount and bypass valve. I did this to see if i would make any gains in throttle response and boost lag. More importantly, I did it to see if it would help with drivability. Compared to the FMIC and open atmosphere BOV, the drivability is much better, and running equal boost at around 13lbs, the OEM SMIC does seem to bring a more linear power delivery. However, i do notice that heatsoak is a problem. After installing, i did wire up my second fan to help bring temps down in the engine bay, though i still notice the loss of power when driving hard at higher boost with the SMIC.

With the FMIC and Open Atmosphere TurboXS TypeH-RFL, the car drives something like an old 930, 911 Turbo... Just violent power; the gas pedal acts as almost an on and off switch (due mainly to the Open Atmosphere BOV). In the end, I do believe the car is faster with the FMIC and i do not notice any increase in throttle response or decrease in boost lag with the SMIC; any benefit is solely in the drivability section, but it is a huge benefit.

This being said, i do believe i will reinstall the FMIC. I just need to get a threaded hose adapter to replace the "horn" on my TurboXS BOV so i can recirculate it. I will have to get someone to bend my some new Piping. The CX Racing piping has hose nipples in awful places, especially the large fitting to recirculate a BOV/BPV.

The OEM S15 Spec-R Side Mount Intercooler will be for sale.

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S15 SR20DET Powered, Kouki S14 http://zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t=578575

brianglawson

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S15 SR20DET Powered, Kouki S14 http://zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t=578575

Sky80

Looking clean as usual!! Love this build, keep up the good work and update us when you replace the ToB. Also- something that would help you tremendously with your temps is ducting at the top and especially the bottom - go from the very front of the bumper all the way past the radiator. This will also help keep temps down with the FMIC making it more efficient.

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'98 Kouki Build in Progress
'10 Subaru Legacy 2.5GT

spools420a

I had a steering shimmy at about 60mph which would come and go every 10 seconds or so/long story short I tried tightening the spring some in the rack and pinion and that fixed the wobble.if it is this you will know by lifting the car and doing a 9:00 - 3:00 wheel shake test and if it wobbles its probably the rack spring may be loose.

Apex Eight

Love this build, so clean and functional

BryanS14

FU man! Thats pretty much exactly how I wanted to build my 97, but alas I had to sell her.

Loooooove the car!

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2011 F150 DD, 1992 Mercedes 190e 2.6 Toy, 1997 240sx-sold

brianglawson

Thanks guys!!!

few more new pictures; i decided to play with some Yellow Lamin-X

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S15 SR20DET Powered, Kouki S14 http://zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t=578575

1GR-FE

Dat ass shot!!

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solo_ryder

Any updates on this? I have always had the same throwout bearing issue as you with my KA AND my current SR.. I have tried OEM and aftermarket TO bearings many times and the noise comes and goes all the time. For my car it depends on the weather it seems. Rainy day the bearing will be grumpy and eventually go away.. If I take a long drive from the mainland to the coast the bearing will be super grumpy the next day for a few days then go away. Really irritating but it hasnt caused any issues.. I have yet to find out why it does this.

brianglawson

Cold weather was what originally brought on the issue..

Since my previous updates/upgrades, the issue is basically non-existent. Every once in a while i may here the whirl, but it's very faint. Now that i know it's the Throwout Bearing making the noise it is of no concern to me. I've held the bearing in my hand, it is smooth and as tight as the new OEM bearing i put in my RSX Type S. I believe it is just the nature of this clutch setup. It's like an off/on switch. Grabs very hard, and pretty instantly. The ONLY time the noise was ever present is when the clutch is getting slipped, such as on steep hills, reversing, etc... This thing has a VERY beefy/stiff pressure plate, so it's just the pressure pushing on it.

Ultimately my setup is this, the clutch only has a few thousand, the other pieces less.
Dakin (Exedy) Master Cylinder
Dakin (Exedy) Slave Cylinder
Spec Stage 3 Six-Puck Clutch Disc
Spec Stage 3 Pressure Plate
Spec Throwout Bearing
Spec Pilot Bushing/Bearing
OEM Nissan S14 Flywheel; Resurfaced
Circuit Sports V2 Short Shifter with Heavy Springs
Solid, Brushed Ball Shift Knob
Redline GL-4 Synthetic Gear Oil

The Clutch Pedal itself isn't super Stiff, but it has a good firm feel. The action itself is fast and brutal though; it really grabs good. Honestly, it's overkill for a street car and had I chosen the clutch kit, I would have gone with a heavy duty standard disc for better street characteristics, but this is definitely stouter.

The noise is just the nature of the beast i believe. Now that its all good and lubed up, etc.. I hardly ever hear it, and when i do, it's in situations of duress. Shifts good and confident, grabs gears hard, and GOES!!

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S15 SR20DET Powered, Kouki S14 http://zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t=578575

future

Love this car

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SoundEfx

Nice build man and here I am thinking that I'm the only one who isn't into the hella flush, stretched tire, mad camber, stance thing.

I'm glad that this car isn't going to be lost/destroyed during drift taxation.

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newboost

love a clean s14. I own one to ,no wing as well super clean.good luck with the sale

-kenny-

wow can't believe I found my old car. only way I know Is that dent on the left driver side that my neighbor hit me.
sold it in number 2013 when it had 97k miles stock KA, front oem lip, z brakes,cusco rear camber, nardi wood steering wheel with hotwheels. new older swapped Sr in.
I saw you were asking about the retrofit. it was off "IWISHIHAVEASILVKA" car. if needed I can ask him
when I had it



this car 3 years ago and miss it everyday. finally just got another one in same condition

-kenny-

btw, do you still have the shift knob that was in the car?